Bakery
Photo: 3268zauber · CC BY-SA 3.0

A bakery is the most ingredient-honest room in any food culture. Flour, water, salt, yeast or sourdough culture, butter, sugar, eggs, milk: the inputs are narrow and the difference between great and ordinary is almost entirely about time, technique, and the oven. A serious bakery cold-ferments its dough for 24 to 72 hours, mills or sources high-extraction flour, runs a deck or wood-fired oven for bread, and a separate convection or steam oven for viennoiserie and pastry. The best are open before sunrise and sell out by early afternoon.

The defining bakery traditions are easy to enumerate. The French boulangerie does baguette, sourdough country loaves (pain de campagne), and viennoiserie (croissant, pain au chocolat, pain aux raisins). The patisserie, technically distinct, does the fine-pastry program: eclairs, mille-feuille, tarts, Paris-Brest, Saint-Honore, Opera, modern entremet by Pierre Herme and the post-Herme generation. The Italian forno does pane, focaccia, ciabatta, and the regional bread (pane casereccio, pane pugliese, pane di Altamura). The Viennese tradition gave the world the viennoiserie family and Sachertorte. The Northern European tradition (Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Germany) does serious rye bread, kanelbullar and kardemummabullar (cinnamon and cardamom buns), and the smorrebrod open sandwich. The Japanese bakery (panya) does the milk-bread (shokupan), melon pan, anpan (sweet bean), and katsu sando. The Latin American panaderia does conchas, bolillos, pan dulce, alfajores, and the Brazilian pao de queijo.

The global natural-leaven bread movement, traceable to Lionel Poilane in Paris (1970s) and then Chad Robertson at Tartine in San Francisco (2000s onwards), made long-fermented sourdough the modern benchmark. A serious 2020s bakery now almost always has a wild-yeast bread program at its center, even when the room sells primarily pastries. Bakery-cafe hybrids (Tartine, Du Pain et des Idees, Lune, Cedric Grolet) are the dominant growth model: the bread program anchors the morning, the pastry program runs throughout the day, the espresso bar holds the room.

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Top picks

The best-scored bakery place in each of 12 cities.

Juno the Bakery ★ 4.9

CopenhagenBakeryDanish butter cookies

Juno the Bakery is in a quiet corner of Østerbro at Århusgade 48, on the ground level of a five-story residential building, with 8 years of service.

Worth the queueDanish butter cookies

TipOpen Tuesday to Saturday from 7.30 to 18.00 and on Sundays from 7.30 to 16.00; closed on Monday.

Lune Croissanterie ★ 4.9

$ MelbourneBakeryFrench laminated pastry and croissantsFitzroyWalk-in only

Lune Croissanterie in Fitzroy is Kate Reid's engineering-informed pastry project: technically exacting croissants cited among the world's best by food media.

Worth the queueClassic croissant with cultured butter

Barrio Bread ★ 4.9

$ TucsonBakeryHeritage white Sonora wheat sourdoughMidtownWalk-in only

Barrio Bread on South Eastbourne in Tucson is Don Guerra's James Beard Outstanding Baker 2022 bakery, milling heritage white Sonora wheat loaves.

Worth the queuePan integral white Sonora wheat loaf

Iginio Massari Alta Pasticceria ★ 4.9

MilanBakeryFine pastry and panettoneCentro Storico

Iginio Massari Alta Pasticceria is a fine pastry shop at Via Guglielmo Marconi 4, with panettone in cocoa and chocolate and without candied fruit.

Worth the queuePanettone with cocoa and chocolate.

Koçak Baklava ★ 4.8

₺₺₺ GaziantepBakeryAntep pistachio baklavaSehitkamilWalk-in only

Koçak Baklava is the baklava counter most of Gaziantep names first, a bright Şehitkamil salon selling şöbiyet, dolama and midye by the kilo.

Worth the queueÖzel şöbiyet

TipBuy by weight and eat it the same day. Antep baklava is built for hours, not for keeping.

Primanti Bros (Strip District original) ★ 4.8

$ PittsburghBakeryStrip District

Primanti Bros on 18th Street is the cheap, filling Strip District original in Pittsburgh. One sandwich with fries and slaw inside the bread is a whole meal.

TryAlmost Famous sandwich

Iggy's Bread of the World ★ 4.8

SydneyBakeryWhite sourdoughBronte

Iggy's Bread of the World is a bakery at 131 Macpherson Street, Bronte NSW 2024.

Worth the queueBig Round White Sourdough

Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates Cafe ★ 4.8

SacramentoBakeryMidtown

Ginger Elizabeth's J Street chocolate shop sells chocolates and macarons made in Sacramento, plus seasonal soft serve, frozen macaron sandwiches and drinks.

La Segunda Central Bakery ★ 4.8

$ TampaBakeryCuban breadYbor CityWalk-in only

La Segunda in Ybor City has baked Cuban bread daily since 1915, with 18,000-plus loaves a day and the palmetto frond baked into the top loaf for steam.

Worth the queueLong Cuban bread with palmetto frond

Bantis Bougatsa ★ 4.8

€ ThessalonikiBakeryCream bougatsa

Bantis has produced Thessaloniki's most respected cream bougatsa from a marble counter near Dikastirion Square since 1969. At Panagias Faneromenis 33.

Frigideiras do Cantinho ★ 4.8

€ €1-3 per pastryBragaBakeryFrigideiras (fried custard pastry), tíbias, sameirinhos

The most historically important food address in Braga, trading continuously since 1796. The specialty is the frigideira: a fried pastry pocket of custard egg.

TipTry all three house classics in one visit: frigideira, tíbia and sameirinho.

Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery ★ 4.8

New OrleansBakeryVietnamese baked goods, banh mi and king cakes

Dong Phuong Bakery, founded in 1982, is a James Beard Award-winning Vietnamese bakery in New Orleans East making banh mi, mooncakes and king cakes.

TipBanh mi, known locally as Vietnamese po'boys, ship nationwide on Goldbelly if you cannot reach New Orleans East.

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Juno the Bakery ★ 4.9

CopenhagenBakeryDanish butter cookies

Juno the Bakery is in a quiet corner of Østerbro at Århusgade 48, on the ground level of a five-story residential building, with 8 years of service.

Worth the queueDanish butter cookies

TipOpen Tuesday to Saturday from 7.30 to 18.00 and on Sundays from 7.30 to 16.00; closed on Monday.

Lune Croissanterie ★ 4.9

$ MelbourneBakeryFrench laminated pastry and croissantsFitzroyWalk-in only

Lune Croissanterie in Fitzroy is Kate Reid's engineering-informed pastry project: technically exacting croissants cited among the world's best by food media.

Worth the queueClassic croissant with cultured butter

Barrio Bread ★ 4.9

$ TucsonBakeryHeritage white Sonora wheat sourdoughMidtownWalk-in only

Barrio Bread on South Eastbourne in Tucson is Don Guerra's James Beard Outstanding Baker 2022 bakery, milling heritage white Sonora wheat loaves.

Worth the queuePan integral white Sonora wheat loaf

Iginio Massari Alta Pasticceria ★ 4.9

MilanBakeryFine pastry and panettoneCentro Storico

Iginio Massari Alta Pasticceria is a fine pastry shop at Via Guglielmo Marconi 4, with panettone in cocoa and chocolate and without candied fruit.

Worth the queuePanettone with cocoa and chocolate.

Koçak Baklava ★ 4.8

₺₺₺ GaziantepBakeryAntep pistachio baklavaSehitkamilWalk-in only

Koçak Baklava is the baklava counter most of Gaziantep names first, a bright Şehitkamil salon selling şöbiyet, dolama and midye by the kilo.

Worth the queueÖzel şöbiyet

TipBuy by weight and eat it the same day. Antep baklava is built for hours, not for keeping.

Primanti Bros (Strip District original) ★ 4.8

$ PittsburghBakeryStrip District

Primanti Bros on 18th Street is the cheap, filling Strip District original in Pittsburgh. One sandwich with fries and slaw inside the bread is a whole meal.

TryAlmost Famous sandwich

Iggy's Bread of the World ★ 4.8

SydneyBakeryWhite sourdoughBronte

Iggy's Bread of the World is a bakery at 131 Macpherson Street, Bronte NSW 2024.

Worth the queueBig Round White Sourdough

Bakerie ★ 4.8

SydneyBakery

Bakerie is a bakery at 773 Pacific Highway in Gordon where the ovens turn out fresh bread and pastries early in the morning, made from scratch every day.

Worth the queueDaily sourdough and bread, pastry and cake, pie and quiche

TipThe menu is split into daily pastry and cake, daily sourdough and bread, and daily pie and quiche.

Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates Cafe ★ 4.8

SacramentoBakeryMidtown

Ginger Elizabeth's J Street chocolate shop sells chocolates and macarons made in Sacramento, plus seasonal soft serve, frozen macaron sandwiches and drinks.

Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates ★ 4.8

SacramentoBakeryChocolates and macaronsMidtown

Ginger Elizabeth Chocolates on J Street turns seasonal ingredients from local farmers and makers into chocolates, macarons and confections made in Sacramento.

Worth the queueThe Frozen Macaron Sandwich, which Ginger Elizabeth created as a signature blend of her macarons and ice creams.

La Segunda Central Bakery ★ 4.8

$ TampaBakeryCuban breadYbor CityWalk-in only

La Segunda in Ybor City has baked Cuban bread daily since 1915, with 18,000-plus loaves a day and the palmetto frond baked into the top loaf for steam.

Worth the queueLong Cuban bread with palmetto frond

Alessi Bakery ★ 4.8

$ TampaBakeryItalian and CubanWest TampaWalk-in only

Alessi Bakery on West Cypress has run an Italian and Cuban bakery in Tampa since 1912, with famous hand-carved Cuban sandwiches, deviled crabs and cannolis.

Worth the queueHand-carved Cuban sandwich

Bantis Bougatsa ★ 4.8

€ ThessalonikiBakeryCream bougatsa

Bantis has produced Thessaloniki's most respected cream bougatsa from a marble counter near Dikastirion Square since 1969. At Panagias Faneromenis 33.

Trigona Elenidis ★ 4.8

€ ThessalonikiBakeryTrigona panoramatos (cream-filled phyllo triangles)

Elenidis in Panorama invented the trigona panoramatos, the crisp phyllo triangle filled with cold pastry cream that has become Thessaloniki's most signature.

Frigideiras do Cantinho ★ 4.8

€ €1-3 per pastryBragaBakeryFrigideiras (fried custard pastry), tíbias, sameirinhos

The most historically important food address in Braga, trading continuously since 1796. The specialty is the frigideira: a fried pastry pocket of custard egg.

TipTry all three house classics in one visit: frigideira, tíbia and sameirinho.

Dong Phuong Oriental Bakery ★ 4.8

New OrleansBakeryVietnamese baked goods, banh mi and king cakes

Dong Phuong Bakery, founded in 1982, is a James Beard Award-winning Vietnamese bakery in New Orleans East making banh mi, mooncakes and king cakes.

TipBanh mi, known locally as Vietnamese po'boys, ship nationwide on Goldbelly if you cannot reach New Orleans East.

Levee Baking Co ★ 4.8

New OrleansBakery

Levee Baking Co. is a community driven neighborhood bakery on Magazine Street that sources most ingredients from local farms for its leavened bread.

Why locals goLevee grew from a cottage bakery in 2015 and a pop up at Mosquito Supper Club in 2017 into its space on Magazine and 9th Street, entered from 9th Street.

TipUse the entrance on 9th Street, and call during open hours if you want baked goods held for you.

Pelican Bakery ★ 4.8

¥ TokyoBakeryClassic shokupan and rollsWalk-in only

Pelican Bakery in Tokyo's Asakusa has baked only two products since 1942: shokupan and dinner rolls. Loaves sell out by mid-afternoon and reservations help.

Worth the queueShokupan square loaf

TipPhone-reserve a loaf two days ahead or arrive by 10:00. The Pelican Cafe on Kotobuki serves the same loaves toasted with butter.

Hart Bageri ★ 4.8

CopenhagenBakery

Hart Bageri is a bakery at Gammel Kongevej 109, 1850 Frederiksberg C.

Golden Crown Panaderia ★ 4.8

AlbuquerqueBakeryDowntown

Golden Crown Panaderia is an old fashioned neighborhood bakery at 1103 Mountain Rd NW, baking New Mexican recipes since 1972, including green chile bread.

Why locals goFounded by Pratt Morales in 1972 in the Old Town area, the bakery has supplied breads and pastries to many of Albuquerque's finest restaurants and hotels.

TipUse the Cookie ATM to pick up baked goods around the clock, even when the lobby is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

OWL Bakery ★ 4.8

AshevilleBakeryNaturally leavened breads and European-inspired pastriesWest Asheville

OWL Bakery at 295 Haywood Rd in West Asheville makes naturally leavened breads and European-inspired pastries by hand, open Tuesday to Sunday.

Worth the queueNaturally leavened bread

TipPastries, breads and cakes can be ordered for celebrations and special occasions, and a bread schedule is posted as a PDF.

Patisserie 46 ★ 4.8

$ MinneapolisBakeryFrench viennoiserie, Norwegian kringleLinden HillsWalk-in only

John Kraus's Patisserie 46 on Grand Avenue South has run Minneapolis's defining French bakery since 2010. James Beard semifinalist for Outstanding Baker.

Worth the queueNorwegian kringle

D’Andrews Bakery & Cafe ★ 4.8

NashvilleBakeryCroissants, brioche pastries, cakes and sandwiches on house breadDowntown

D’Andrews Bakery & Cafe is a modern bakery with a Southern sensibility in downtown Nashville, serving pastries and sandwiches on freshly-baked bread.

Worth the queueThe French Bulldog macaron, a hand-crafted treat inspired by the owner's dog, Daisy.

TipEverything is made in-house, from roasted meats and sauces to jams and syrups, and online ordering covers breakfast sandwiches and custom cakes.

Bakery by city

Gaziantep47 places Koçak Baklava, Katmerci Zekeriya Usta Lyon22 places Pralus Presqu'ile, Boulangerie du Palais Brooklyn21 places Patisserie Tomoko, Saint Street Cakes Pittsburgh21 places Primanti Bros (Strip District original), La Gourmandine Rio de Janeiro21 places The Slow Bakery, Dianna Bakery San Antonio21 places Nicosi, La Panaderia St. Louis21 places Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery, Nathaniel Reid Bakery Bristol20 places Hart's Bakery, Pinkmans Bakery Kuala Lumpur20 places Bunn Choon, Kenny Hills Bakers Sydney20 places Iggy's Bread of the World, Bakerie Ghent19 places Joost Arijs Patisserie and Chocolaterie, The Bakery by Joost Arijs Nantes18 places Maison Arlot Cheng, Esthète

Regional variations

French (boulangerie + patisserie)

Baguette (the daily-bread regulator of France since the 1920s), pain de campagne, croissant, pain au chocolat, eclair, mille-feuille, tarte au citron, Paris-Brest, Saint-Honore. The patisserie is the upper tier, codified by Pierre Herme, Cedric Grolet, and Cyril Lignac.

Italian (forno + pasticceria)

Bread (pane, ciabatta, focaccia, pane di Altamura) and pastry (cannoli, sfogliatelle, cornetti, the Sicilian and Neapolitan cassata tradition). The Italian bar's morning cornetto-and-cappuccino is a forno purchase.

Viennese / Austrian-German

Strudel (apple, cheese, cherry), Sachertorte, Linzer torte, Mohnkuchen, brezel (pretzel), the viennoiserie tradition (kipferl, the croissant ancestor). Vienna is the historic source of the laminated-pastry family.

Nordic

Rye breads (the Danish rugbrod, German Vollkornbrot), kanelbullar and kardemummabullar (Swedish cinnamon and cardamom buns), Danish pastries (wienerbrod, paradoxically called 'Vienna bread'), the cardamom-and-spice flavor palette.

Japanese (panya)

Shokupan (milk bread), melon pan, anpan (red bean), curry pan, the katsu sando (the panko-pork-cutlet sandwich exported globally). The world's most-precise white-bread tradition.

Latin American (panaderia)

Mexican concha, bolillo, pan dulce (the catalog of sweet rolls); Brazilian pao de queijo (tapioca-and-cheese bread); Argentine medialunas (the local croissant); Cuban cubano roll.

Defining bakery dishes

Baguette
The 250-gram, foot-and-a-half-long French daily bread, with a crisp crust and an open crumb. Baguette de tradition (made only with flour, water, salt, and yeast, baked on-site) is the upper standard since 1993 French law.
Croissant
Laminated viennoiserie of butter folded into yeasted dough through multiple turns, baked until shatteringly crisp. The defining French breakfast pastry; the modern benchmark is set by Du Pain et des Idees, Cedric Grolet, and Lune in Melbourne.
Sourdough country loaf
Naturally-leavened bread (no commercial yeast), usually 1-to-2-kg, with an open crumb and a dark crust. The Tartine country bread (Chad Robertson, San Francisco, 2008-onward) is the global modern benchmark.
Pain au chocolat
Croissant dough wrapped around two batons of dark chocolate. Called chocolatine in southwest France. The second-most-eaten French breakfast pastry.
Cannoli
Crisp fried pastry tube filled with sweetened ricotta, often dusted with pistachio or candied citrus. Sicilian specialty; filled to order at serious bakeries (shells go soft if filled in advance).
Focaccia
Italian flat oven-baked bread with olive oil, often topped with sea salt, rosemary, tomato, or onion. Ligurian focaccia (Genoa, Recco) is the deepest regional tradition.
Kanelbulle / cardamom bun
The Swedish coiled sweet bun, made with cardamom-spiced dough, brown sugar, and butter, topped with pearl sugar. Fika ritual at 3pm. Cardamom bun is the modern darling.
Sachertorte
Viennese chocolate cake with a thin layer of apricot jam under a dark chocolate glaze. Invented at Hotel Sacher in 1832; the original version still sold there by mail order.
Pao de queijo
Brazilian small, chewy cheese bread of tapioca starch and queijo Minas. Eaten warm, often for breakfast. The Brazilian counter offer to the French croissant.
Bagel
The boiled-then-baked Polish-Jewish ring bread, perfected in New York City and Montreal. The two regional styles (NY: bigger, denser, malt-sweet; Montreal: smaller, sweeter, wood-fired) are both authentic.
Mille-feuille / Napoleon
Layers of puff pastry alternated with vanilla creme patissiere or cream, topped with marbled icing. The French patisserie classic.
Shokupan
Japanese milk bread, dense and slightly sweet, often used for the katsu sando. The most-precise white bread tradition in the world; mainstream Japanese supermarket shokupan outperforms many Western artisanal whites.

How to order

Arrive early. The best bakeries have a morning rush (7-10am for French boulangeries, 6-9am for Italian fornos) and sell out by midday. At a French boulangerie, ask for 'une baguette de tradition' rather than just 'une baguette' (the ordinary baguette is mass-produced; the tradition is the hand-shaped, naturally-fermented standard). At a patisserie, ask which item was finished most recently; mille-feuille, eclairs, and laminated pastries are at their best within a few hours of finishing. At a Japanese panya, melon pan and curry pan are usually pulled fresh on a schedule; ask the time.

For sourdough or country loaves at a serious bakery, ask the staff which loaf is freshest and which was baked the night before; both are valid choices, with different characters. A 2-kg country loaf will keep 4-5 days if stored cut-face down on a wooden board. The mistake at a bakery is buying bread late in the day and expecting it to be the same as the morning's product; nothing about a sourdough loaf, a croissant, or a baguette holds for 12 hours.

What to drink with it

Coffee is the primary pair across most traditions. French boulangerie bread with a cafe au lait or espresso; Italian forno cornetto with a cappuccino; Nordic bun with filter coffee. Tea in Asia. Hot chocolate in Paris (Angelina's, Cedric Grolet's, the Salon de The tradition). For dinner-bread pairings, sourdough country loaves work with cheese, charcuterie, wine; baguette is the lunch sandwich bread (jambon-beurre, the Parisian classic). A patisserie's fine pastries pair with champagne or sparkling wine for celebrations; with coffee or tea for a daily snack.

Where to eat it

Paris is the global capital of viennoiserie and patisserie: Du Pain et des Idees, Poilane, Cedric Grolet, Pierre Herme, Cyril Lignac's Gourmand, Tout Autour du Pain. San Francisco for the natural-leaven movement: Tartine. New York for bagels (Russ and Daughters, Sadelle's, H&H) and modern bakeries (She Wolf, Bien Cuit). Tokyo for the Japanese panya tradition and Western-trained bakeries (Maison Kayser, Du Magasin, Tsugu Coffee and Bakery). Melbourne for Lune Croissanterie, the global benchmark croissant since 2012. Stockholm and Copenhagen for the Nordic bun tradition (Lille Bakery, Hart Bageri). Florence, Bologna, and Palermo for Italian forno bread.

A short history

The modern bakery descends from medieval European guild bakeries, with the French boulangerie codifying through the 17th to 19th centuries and the baguette regulated by 20th-century French labor and price laws (the 1920 ban on overnight bakery labor effectively forced the long, thin baguette shape). Lionel Poilane (Paris, 1932-2002) revived the long-fermented country loaf in the 1970s. Chad Robertson at Tartine (San Francisco, opened 2002) globalized the naturally-leavened bread movement in the 2000s and 2010s. The 2010s also saw the Japanese-influenced laminated-pastry boom (Lune, Du Pain et des Idees, Cedric Grolet) define the modern bakery.

Frequently asked

What makes a great croissant?

Real butter (not margarine), proper lamination (32 to 81 layers depending on technique), cold-fermented dough (overnight or longer), high oven heat for the initial bake to make the layers puff, and baking until truly golden, not pale. Eaten within four hours of baking. Lune Croissanterie (Melbourne), Du Pain et des Idees (Paris), and Cedric Grolet (Paris) set the modern benchmark.

What's the difference between a boulangerie and a patisserie?

A boulangerie's primary product is bread; viennoiserie (croissants, pain au chocolat) is a side category. A patisserie's primary product is fine pastry: eclairs, mille-feuille, tarts, entremets, macarons. Larger French bakeries (Du Pain et des Idees, Poilane) do both; specialist patisseries (Pierre Herme, Cedric Grolet) often do not sell bread.

Is supermarket bread really worse than artisan bread?

Yes, almost always. Mass-produced supermarket bread uses fast yeast (1-to-3-hour fermentation versus the artisan's 24-to-72-hour), low-extraction flour, and chemical conditioners. The difference in flavor, digestibility, and shelf life is dramatic. Long fermentation breaks down gluten and develops flavor in ways short fermentation cannot.

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