Venice keeps its sweet tooth in the pasticceria, where morning fritelle, krapfen and a quick coffee are taken standing at the counter. Dorsoduro is the heartland: Pasticceria Tonolo on Calle San Pantalon draws long queues, while Panificio Crosera and Majer on Campo Santa Margherita feed the student crowd nearby. Across the canals, Pasticceria Rizzardini in San Polo, Pasticceria Rosa Salva in San Marco and Pasticceria Dal Mas on the busy Lista di Spagna in Cannaregio keep the tradition going.
Pasticceria Tonolo on Calle San Pantalon in Venice's Dorsoduro has run since 1886, the city's benchmark patisserie for focaccia veneziana and Carnevale.
TipOpen 07:30; the morning queue clears by 09:00. The focaccia veneziana is best the same day it's baked. Cash preferred.
Pasticceria Rosa Salva on Calle Fiubera in San Marco has run for almost 150 years, the Venetian benchmark for baba and the cream-filled brioche col cremor.
TipThree branches in Venice. The Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo branch has more seating; this one is faster for a counter espresso.
Pasticceria Dal Mas on Lista di Spagna in Venice's Cannaregio near Santa Lucia station is the historic Cannaregio patisserie, with house-made chocolates next.
TipThe pan dei dogi (Doges' bread) and the chocolate spreads travel home well. Open 07:00 daily, best for an espresso-and-bussolai stop before the train.
Pasticceria Marchini Time on Campo San Luca near Rialto is the local breakfast bakery the lunch-break crowd queues at, the canonical brioche col cremor.
TipThe lunch-time tramezzini turn out fresh from 11:00. Espresso plus cornetto runs €3 at the counter.
Rosa Salva on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo in Venice's Castello is the larger of the Rosa Salva branches, open Sundays for the post-mass espresso crowd.
TipSundays only this branch is open. Outdoor tables on the campo face the equestrian statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni.
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