b. Patisserie in San Francisco is Belinda Leong and Michel Suas's Pacific Heights cafe with the city's best kouign-amann and a Paris-trained pastry programme.
Tip: The kouign-amann is best within 90 minutes of the bake; ask the counter for the timing on the next tray.
Address: 2821 California St. @ Divisadero St. San Francisco, CA 94115
Arsicault Bakery in San Francisco is Armando Lacayo's Inner Richmond counter, named America's best croissant by Bon Appetit and still drawing a 09:30 queue.
Tip: Plain butter croissant, not the almond; the lamination tells the whole story.
Worth the queue: Plain croissant
Jane the Bakery in San Francisco is Amanda Michael's Lower Pac Heights flagship, with a stone-mill grain programme and the city's best whole-grain country loaf.
Tip: The cardamom morning bun is the dark-horse order; ask if they have any left after 11:00.
Worth the queue: Country grain loaf
Neighbor Bakehouse in San Francisco is Greg Mindel's Dogpatch counter, with the everything croissant and chocolate babka that started a small national copy-cat trend.
Tip: Everything croissant sells out by 11:30 on weekends; place a hold order via Square the night before.
Worth the queue: Everything croissant
Devil's Teeth Baking Company in San Francisco is the Outer Sunset bakery and breakfast counter, with a buttermilk biscuit egg sandwich and the city's best beignet.
Tip: Beignets are fried to order on weekends; ask for them with the powdered sugar on the side.
Worth the queue: Breakfast sandwich on house biscuit
Acme Bread Company in San Francisco runs a Ferry Building counter for Steve Sullivan's 1983 Berkeley bakery, with a pain au levain that defined Bay Area sourdough.
Tip: Get there before noon on Saturday; the levain sells out by 13:00 when the market is in full swing.
Worth the queue: Pain au levain
Boudin Bakery in San Francisco is Isidore Boudin's 1849 Gold Rush bakery at Fisherman's Wharf, still running a starter through six generations of bakers.
Tip: The bakery's behind-glass museum at the Wharf is free; the clam chowder bowl is the canonical order.
Worth the queue: Clam chowder in a sourdough bowl
