Hafız Mustafa 1864 ★ 4.3
Hafız Mustafa 1864 on Hamidiye Caddesi, the original Sultan Abdülaziz-era confectioner still rolling lokum and laminated baklava in Eminönü over a 160-year run.
Worth the queue: Pomegranate Turkish delight
Karaköy Güllüoğlu, the one-counter Rıhtım Caddesi baklava emporium across from Galataport, the Güllü family's pistachio version since 1949 and Istanbul's reference baklava.
Address: Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mah., Rıhtım Caddesi No:3-4, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul, Istanbul
Hafız Mustafa 1864 on Hamidiye Caddesi, the original Sultan Abdülaziz-era confectioner still rolling lokum and laminated baklava in Eminönü over a 160-year run.
Worth the queue: Pomegranate Turkish delight
Ali Muhiddin Hacı Bekir at Bahçekapı, the 1777-founded confectioner credited with inventing modern lokum, run from a heritage-listed shopfront beside Yeni Cami.
Worth the queue: Rose-and-pistachio lokum
Saray Muhallebicisi on Istiklal, the 1935 muhallebici pulling chicken-breast pudding, kazandibi and milk-pudding bowls into the small hours for the late-Beyoğlu crowd.
Worth the queue: Tavuk göğsü chicken-breast pudding
Beyaz Fırın in Etiler, a heritage Turkish bakery dating to 1836, working out of a two-floor Nispetiye Caddesi space with a vertical garden and a 350-seat patisserie.
Worth the queue: Pogaca cheese rolls
Borsam Taşfırın in Kadıköy, pulling stone-oven lahmacun and pide since 1968 from a glass-fronted counter on the Bahariye side of Caferağa.
Worth the queue: Sucuklu pide
Mado on Bağdat Caddesi, the Maraş-origin Kanbur-family ice-cream brand whose first Istanbul branch opened in Caddebostan, famous for the stretchable salep dondurma that needs a knife and fork.
Worth the queue: Kahramanmaraş dövme dondurma