The plates that define eating in Prague.
Marinated beef sirloin in a thick root-vegetable cream sauce, served with bread dumplings, cranberry jam and a swirl of whipped cream on top. Czech home cooking at its richest.
Where: Lokal Dlouhaaa, U Modre Kachnicky, Lokal Hamburk, Vycep
Where to eat Svickova na smetane in Prague →
Roast pork shoulder with bread dumplings and braised sauerkraut. The Czech national plate: caramelised pork, fluffy dumplings to soak up the gravy, sweet-sour sauerkraut.
Where: U Modre Kachnicky, U Fleku, Lokal Dlouhaaa, Vycep
Where to eat Vepro-knedlo-zelo in Prague →
Czech beef goulash with bread dumplings: slow-braised chunks of beef in a paprika gravy thickened with onions, sliced dumplings on the side to soak it all up.
Where: U Fleku, Lokal Dlouhaaa, U Medvidku, Lokal Hamburk
Where to eat Gulas s knedliky in Prague →
Czech fried cheese: a thick slab of Edam or Hermelin breaded and deep-fried, served with tartar sauce, fries and a slice of lemon. Beer-hall food at its most direct.
Where: Lokal Dlouhaaa, Lokal U Bile Kuzelky, U Fleku, U Medvidku
Where to eat Smazeny syr in Prague →
Dough wrapped around a wooden cylinder, grilled over coals, dusted in sugar and walnut. Tourist-marketed as old Czech, actually a 21st-century Prague phenomenon from Transylvania.
Where: Old Town Square sausage grills
Where to eat Trdelnik in Prague →
Czech open-faced sandwiches on dense white bread, piled with toppings from ham and pickle to roast beef and horseradish, smoked salmon or beetroot and apple. Lunch by the count.
Where: Sisters Bistro, Antoninovo Pekarstvi Karlin, Antoninovo Pekarstvi Namesti Miru
Where to eat Chlebicky in Prague →
Bohemian sweet bun with a soft enriched dough and a dimple of filling: poppy seed, plum jam, sweet curd cheese or apricot. Round, palm-sized, baked golden on top.
Where: Eska Karlin, Antoninovo Pekarstvi Karlin, Antoninovo Pekarstvi Namesti Miru, Eska Letna
Where to eat Kolache in Prague →
Bohemian fruit dumplings: a soft potato or quark dough wrapped around a whole plum, apricot or strawberry, boiled, then dressed with melted butter, sugar and farmer's cheese.
Where: U Modre Kachnicky, Lokal Dlouhaaa, Lokal Hamburk
Where to eat Ovocne knedliky in Prague →
Czech savoury potato pancakes: grated potato, flour, garlic, marjoram and crushed garlic, fried in a thin disc until crisp. Beer-hall snack, sometimes filled with smoked pork.
Where: U Medvidku, U Fleku, Lokal U Bile Kuzelky
Where to eat Bramboracky in Prague →
Czech beef tartare with fried garlic toasts: hand-chopped raw beef sirloin pounded with mustard, paprika, raw egg yolk and onion, scooped onto a slab of toasted rye rubbed with garlic, eaten with a cold Pilsner.
Where: Lokal Dlouhaaa, Kantyna, U Medvidku, Cestr
Where to eat Tatarak s topinkami in Prague →
Bohemian sour-cream and mushroom soup: a velvety sour-cream and potato broth with caraway, dill, foraged mushrooms and a poached egg floating in the middle. Served with a chunk of dark rye on the side.
Where: Eska Karlin, U Modre Kachnicky, Cafe Savoy, Mistral Cafe
Where to eat Kulajda in Prague →
Czech pickled sausages, the canonical pub starter: a fat soft-fleshed parky sausage halved lengthwise, stuffed with raw onion, then submerged in a sweet-sharp vinegar brine with bay, peppercorns and chilli for at least three days before serving.
Where: U Medvidku, U Fleku, Vycep, Lokal Dlouhaaa
Where to eat Utopenci in Prague →