Bicerin
Bicerin is Turin's layered coffee, chocolate and fior di latte drink, served in a small handle-less glass. Invented in 1763 at Caffe Al Bicerin on Piazza della Consolata.
Where: Caffe Al Bicerin, Caffe Baratti & Milano, Caffe Platti 1875
Royal kitchens, Slow Food cradle, bicerin and white truffle.
Turin eats with one foot in the royal kitchens of the House of Savoy and the other in Slow Food's quiet revolution. The Piedmontese grammar runs through every osteria menu: vitello tonnato, agnolotti del plin, tajarin with butter and Alba truffle in autumn, bagna cauda in winter, brasato al Barolo and bonet for dessert. The bicerin (coffee, chocolate, fior di latte) was invented at Caffe Al Bicerin in 1763, the tramezzino at Caffe Mulassano in 1926, and the gianduiotto by Caffarel and Prochet in 1865 from a hazelnut-and-cocoa paste born of mid-1800s cocoa scarcity. Eataly opened its first store at Lingotto in 2007. Carlo Petrini founded Slow Food up the road in Bra in 1986, and the Salone del Gusto returns to Turin every two years. The Porta Palazzo market still runs Europe's largest open-air food trade every morning, and white truffle season pulls the whole city east to Alba from October through December.
Every restaurant, cafe, market and bar we cover in Turin, pinned. Click a pin for the page.
The plates that define eating in Turin.
Bicerin is Turin's layered coffee, chocolate and fior di latte drink, served in a small handle-less glass. Invented in 1763 at Caffe Al Bicerin on Piazza della Consolata.
Where: Caffe Al Bicerin, Caffe Baratti & Milano, Caffe Platti 1875
Tramezzino is the crustless triangular soft-bread sandwich invented in Turin in 1926. Mulassano runs over 30 fillings; the classic is tuna, anchovy and capers.
Where: Caffe Mulassano, Caffe Baratti & Milano, Caffe Platti 1875
Agnolotti del plin are tiny pinched-pasta squares filled with leftover roast meat, from Langhe and Monferrato in Piedmont. Served with butter and sage, or with their own sugo.
Where: Consorzio, Tre Galline, Pastificio Defilippis, Le Vitel Etonne
Vitello tonnato is sliced cold poached veal under a creamy tuna, caper and anchovy sauce. A Piedmontese summer classic from the late 18th century.
Where: Le Vitel Etonne, Tre Galline, Consorzio, Trattoria Valenza
Bagna cauda is the Piedmont winter dip of garlic, anchovies, olive oil and butter, eaten warm with raw cardoons, peppers and bread. The dish was UNESCO-nominated.
Where: Trattoria Valenza, Tre Galline, Consorzio, Le Vitel Etonne
Tajarin is Langhe and Monferrato's fine egg-yolk-rich pasta, traditionally cut very thin and tossed in butter with white truffle from Alba in season.
Where: Pastificio Defilippis, Consorzio, Tre Galline, Le Vitel Etonne
A handful of the places we send friends to when they are in Turin.
Tre Galline in Turin's Quadrilatero traces an inn on this street to the XVI century. Bollito misto from the trolley, vitello tonnato, agnolotti.
Signature: Bollito misto, Battuta di Fassona, Vitello tonnato
Consorzio in Turin's Quadrilatero Romano is a slow-food trattoria with a serious wine list. Tumin ravioli, finanziera, plin, a long Piedmont cellar.
Signature: Tumin del Mel ravioli, Finanziera ravioli, Agnolotti del plin
Le Vitel Etonne in Turin's Centro builds the carte around vitello tonnato in many guises, plus a Piedmontese tasting from the Susigan kitchen.
Signature: Vitello tonnato (multiple cuts), Agnolotti del plin, Tajarin
Scannabue on Largo Saluzzo in Turin's San Salvario is a Bib Gourmand bistrot for vitello tonnato, fresh tajarin and a fair Piedmont wine list.
Signature: Vitello tonnato, Brasato al Barolo, Tajarin
Porto di Savona on Piazza Vittorio Veneto in Turin has cooked since 1863 as a Locale Storico d'Italia. Vitello tonnato, agnolotti and finanziera.
Signature: Vitello tonnato, Agnolotti, Bollito misto
Trattoria Valenza on Borgo Dora next to Porta Palazzo is a rustic Piedmontese room loved by Gambero Rosso. Live music on Thursdays and Saturdays.
Signature: Bollito misto, Vitello tonnato, Tripe stew
The royal axis from Piazza Castello to Piazza San Carlo, lined with the historic Liberty cafes (Mulassano, San Carlo, Baratti & Milano) and the porticoed shopping spine of Via Roma.
Best for: Historic cafes, Aperitivo, Fine dining
The medieval grid north of Piazza Castello around Via Bellezia and Piazza della Consolata, home to Tre Galline, Consorzio, Caffe Al Bicerin and the late-night aperitivo crawl.
Best for: Trattorias, Aperitivo, Late night
The lively quarter east of Porta Nuova station around Largo Saluzzo, with Scannabue, multi-ethnic taquerias, natural-wine rooms and the longest aperitivo strip in the city.
Best for: Aperitivo, Wine bars, Multi-ethnic
The eastern hipster quarter behind the Mole Antonelliana along Via Vanchiglia and Via Balbo, with craft breweries, third-wave coffee and the new-wave casual rooms.
Best for: Craft beer, Third wave coffee, Casual dinner
The residential-chic quarter south of Porta Nuova around Corso Re Umberto and Via Pietro Micca, with bourgeois trattorias, Caffe Platti, Stratta and Sunday-lunch institutions.
Best for: Sunday lunch, Pasticcerie, Bourgeois trattorias
The market quarter around Piazza della Repubblica and the Porta Palazzo open-air food trade, with the Mercato Centrale, multi-ethnic counters and morning-only counters from sunrise.
Best for: Markets, Multi-ethnic street food, Counter breakfast
Peak food season: October to December (Tartufo Bianco d'Alba, new Barolo, cardoons for bagna cauda) and April to June (asparagus from Santena, strawberries from Tortona, the new vermouth releases). August closes a fair share of small rooms for ferie.
Local dining hours: Lunch 12:30 to 14:30, dinner 19:45 to 22:30. Aperitivo runs 18:30 to 20:30 and is a city institution. Sunday lunch is the family meal; many trattorias close Sunday evening and all day Monday.
Tipping: Coperto (cover charge) of 2 to 4 euros per person is standard. Service is not added separately. Round up or leave a few coins at the counter for very good service; never more than 5 to 10 percent and never on the card reader.
Turin's signature dishes include Bicerin, Tramezzino, Agnolotti del Plin, Vitello Tonnato, Bagna Cauda. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.
TableJourney editors map Turin by district. Centro Storico, Quadrilatero Romano, San Salvario, Vanchiglia are among the strongest for food, each with its own guide.
Editor picks in Turin include Del Cambio, Piano35, Carignano, plus the full fine dining chapter on TableJourney.
TableJourney covers 5 editor-picked food tours in Turin, with what each shows you and how much to budget.
TableJourney's Turin dietary chapter covers vegan, vegetarian, halal venues, each editor-picked with what to order and how to ask.