A capital that learnt to cook, on the wood-fired north shore of the Firth.
Free cancellation on most tours, with live prices on the partner's site.
Edinburgh eats like a capital that learnt the lesson late. For a century the city's reputation rested on whisky and grand hotel dining rooms; in the last twenty years the kitchens have caught up. Tom Kitchin opened on Commercial Quay in 2006, won the Michelin star in seven months and pulled Scottish provenance from the rural-restaurant footnote onto the capital's plate. Today the orbit runs from Leith, where The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart and Heron share the same shoreline, to Stockbridge bistros, Bruntsfield neighbourhood rooms, Old Town hotel tasting counters and the Saturday markets at Stockbridge and Castle Terrace. Edinburgh is small enough that the chefs cross paths, big enough that the city now keeps four Michelin-starred kitchens at once. Lunch is from noon. Dinner is from 18:30-22:00, last orders earlier than London. The Sunday roast is mandatory and the haggis is non-ironic.
Guided tour · 3 hours
Explore Edinburgh’s Georgian 200 year-old New Town on a food walking tour. Enjoy a Scottish gin cocktail, smoked salmon canapes, port and chocolate, haggis, ice cream ...
Guided tour · 3 hours
Explore Edinburgh’s rich history through its iconic cuisine! Taste, learn, and feel the soul of Scotland on our unforgettable Secret Food Tour through the heart of the...
Guided tour · 50 - 75 minutes
Enjoy a guided tour and tasting in the vault of world's most famous Scotch whisky collection. Discover the art of blending and the secrets of single malt whisky across...
The plates that define eating in Edinburgh.
Sheep's offal, oatmeal and onion encased in stomach lining, steamed and served with mashed turnip (neeps) and mashed potato (tatties). Edinburgh's defining plate, eaten year-round and ritually on Burns Night.
Where The Kitchin, The Scran and Scallie, The Witchery by the Castle, The Dome, Howies
Where to eat Haggis, neeps and tatties in Edinburgh →A thick smoked-haddock soup with potato, onion and milk, named after the Moray village of Cullen. Edinburgh's standard winter-warmer starter; on every Scottish menu in the Old Town.
Where The Scran and Scallie, The Witchery by the Castle, Fishers in the City, Howies
Where to eat Cullen skink in Edinburgh →Hot-water-crust pastry case filled with seasoned minced mutton or lamb, served from a bakery counter or a football-ground kiosk. Edinburgh's commuter lunch since the late 1800s.
Where Howies, The Scran and Scallie, Oink, The Dome, Edinburgh Larder Bakehouse
Taste itThe Scotch Whisky Experience Tour and Tasting£25Where to eat Scotch pie in Edinburgh →Cold-smoked sides of Scottish salmon, sliced fine and served with capers, lemon and brown bread. The country's defining export plate and a fixture of Edinburgh hotel breakfast service.
Where Fishers in the City, The Witchery by the Castle, The Dome, Number One at The Balmoral
Where to eat Scottish smoked salmon in Edinburgh →Battered haddock with thick-cut chips, salt and malt vinegar. Edinburgh's chippy default is haddock not cod, and the Old Town counters serve it through the small hours.
Where Fishers in the City, Bertie's Proper Fish and Chips, L'Alba D'Oro
Where to eat Fish and chips in Edinburgh →A clear-tasting lamb-and-barley soup with leek, carrot, turnip and split peas, simmered for hours. Edinburgh's standard winter starter and the soup of every household kitchen.
Where The Scran and Scallie, Howies, The Witchery by the Castle, The Dome, Fishers in the City
Where to eat Scotch broth in Edinburgh →Leftover roast meat slow-cooked with potatoes, onion and stock until everything collapses together. A Sunday-roast next-day plate from Edinburgh's working kitchens.
Where The Scran and Scallie, Howies, The Dome, The Caley Picture House
Where to eat Stovies in Edinburgh →Layered whipped cream, toasted oatmeal, honey, whisky and Scottish raspberries. Edinburgh's standard summer pudding, eaten July to August when the berries are at their peak.
Where The Kitchin, The Witchery by the Castle, The Dome, Howies
Where to eat Cranachan in Edinburgh →A chocolate-caramel Mars bar dipped in fish-and-chip batter and deep fried. Edinburgh's late-night Royal Mile tourist novelty since 1995; locals roll their eyes and order anyway.
Where L'Alba D'Oro
Where to eat Deep-fried Mars bar in Edinburgh →A biscuit of flour, butter and sugar, baked pale and snapped into fingers or wedges. Edinburgh's everyday with-tea bake and the standard tourist gift home from Princes Street.
Where The Dome, Lovecrumbs, The Witchery by the Castle
Where to eat Scottish shortbread in Edinburgh →Edinburgh's defining weekend breakfast: square Lorne sausage, link sausage, back bacon, fried egg, black pudding, white pudding, haggis, tattie scone, grilled tomato, mushrooms and beans. Tea and toast on the side.
Where The Scran and Scallie, Edinburgh Larder, Roseleaf Bar Cafe, Howies, The Cottage at Royal Terrace
Taste itFrom Edinburgh: Full Day Scottish Highlands and Whisky Tour£67Where to eat Full Scottish Breakfast in Edinburgh →A handful of the places we send friends to when they are in Edinburgh.
Tom Kitchin's Commercial Quay dining room in Leith, Edinburgh, opened in 2006 and held a Michelin star within seven months, the kitchen that brought Scottish.
OrderThe seasonal Rock Pool starter and whatever lands fresh from the Anstruther day-boats that morning.
Martin Wishart's Shoreside Leith dining room in Edinburgh, opened in 1999 and Michelin-starred since 2001, the city's longest-running modern French tasting.
OrderThe eight-course Tasting Menu or the half-priced lunch tasting served Tuesday to Friday.
The Radford family's foraged-and-fermented kitchen on Lady Lawson Street in Edinburgh, opened in 2012 and Michelin-starred since 2024, a courtyard dining.
OrderThe full tasting menu at dinner; let the kitchen send what is best that day from the garden.
Sam Yorke and Tom Hagger's Henderson Street kitchen in Leith Edinburgh, opened 2021 and Michelin-starred 2024, an open-pass small-plates room.
OrderWhatever has come off the Scrabster fish auction that morning and the cured-egg-yolk opening course.
Stuart Ralston's Shoreside Leith fine-dining room in Edinburgh, opened in 2024 and Michelin-starred within twelve months, a 14-seat tasting counter.
OrderThe full chef's tasting menu; this is a counter-only kitchen designed for the set sequence.
Conor Toomey's Marchmont neighbourhood kitchen in Edinburgh, opened in 2018 and Michelin-starred from 2020, a no-choice tasting menu in a 20-seat residential.
OrderThere is no choice. The fixed seven-course tasting menu is the only option; trust the room.
Edinburgh's medieval high street: the Royal Mile from castle to palace, Grassmarket pubs since the 1500s, and hotel dining rooms with views of the volcano.
Best for: Scottish, Whisky bars, Pubs, Fine dining
Georgian terraces and basement bistros: George Street steakhouses, Rose Street's late-night row, and the boutique-hotel kitchens around Charlotte Square.
Best for: Steakhouses, Brunch, Cocktails, Fine dining
Edinburgh's working port turned chef row. The Shore holds three Michelin-starred kitchens within five hundred metres; the rest is bistros, breweries and bagels.
Best for: Fine dining, Seafood, Brunch, Wine bars
Village Edinburgh north of the Water of Leith. Sunday Stockbridge Market, indie bakeries, the Raeburn neighbourhood pub and the original Scran and Scallie on Comely Bank.
Best for: Markets, Bakeries, Brunch, Gastropubs
South-side neighbourhoods full of independents: The Little Chartroom and Locanda de Gusti on the Bruntsfield row, family rooms and Morningside's deli cluster.
Best for: Neighbourhood bistros, Italian, Brunch, Cafes
Theatreland Edinburgh, with The Lyceum and the Usher Hall: Timberyard, Castle Terrace and the William Street boutique-bistro row.
Best for: Fine dining, Pre-theatre, Cocktails, Bistros
Haggis, neeps and tatties
Sheep's offal, oatmeal and onion encased in stomach lining, steamed and served with mashed turnip (neeps) and mashed potato (tatties)
Cullen skink
A thick smoked-haddock soup with potato, onion and milk, named after the Moray village of Cullen
Scotch pie
Hot-water-crust pastry case filled with seasoned minced mutton or lamb, served from a bakery counter or a football-ground kiosk
Scottish smoked salmon
Cold-smoked sides of Scottish salmon, sliced fine and served with capers, lemon and brown bread
Fish and chips
Battered haddock with thick-cut chips, salt and malt vinegar
Old Town
Edinburgh's medieval high street: the Royal Mile from castle to palace, Grassmarket pubs since the 1500s, and hotel dining rooms with views of the volcano
New Town
Georgian terraces and basement bistros: George Street steakhouses, Rose Street's late-night row, and the boutique-hotel kitchens around Charlotte Square
Leith
Edinburgh's working port turned chef row
Stockbridge
Village Edinburgh north of the Water of Leith
A sample of Edinburgh hotels from our booking partner, who list 1,477 here. Live prices and availability open on their site.
a&o Edinburgh City
A stay at a&o Edinburgh City places you in the heart of Edinburgh, steps from Edinburgh Vaults and Royal Mi...
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Travelodge Edinburgh Haymarket
Located in Edinburgh (Haymarket), Travelodge Edinburgh Haymarket is within a 15-minute walk of Scottish Nat...
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ibis budget Edinburgh Park
Located in Edinburgh, ibis budget Edinburgh Park is in a state park, within a 15-minute drive of Grassmarke...
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easyHotel Edinburgh
With a stay at easyHotel Edinburgh in Edinburgh (New Town), you'll be steps from Princes Street and 3 minut...
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Britannia Hotel Edinburgh
A stay at Britannia Hotel Edinburgh places you in the heart of Edinburgh, steps from Scottish National Gall...
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St. Christopher's Inn Edinburgh - Hostel
A stay at St. Christopher's Inn Edinburgh - Hostel places you in the heart of Edinburgh, steps from Princes...
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Point A Hotel Edinburgh Haymarket
A stay at Point A Hotel Edinburgh Haymarket places you in the heart of Edinburgh, steps from Edinburgh Inte...
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Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel
A stay at Edinburgh Central Youth Hostel places you in the heart of Edinburgh, steps from Princes Street an...
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St Christopher's Edinburgh Old Town - Hostel
With a stay at St Christopher's Edinburgh Old Town - Hostel in Edinburgh (Old Town Edinburgh), you'll be st...
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Leonardo Edinburgh Murrayfield
In the heart of Edinburgh, Leonardo Edinburgh Murrayfield is within a 5-minute drive of Royal Burgess Golf ...
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Edinburgh Grosvenor Hotel
Located in Edinburgh (Haymarket), Edinburgh Grosvenor Hotel is within a 5-minute drive of Edinburgh Interna...
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Sakura Edinburgh Guest House
A stay at Sakura Edinburgh Guest House places you in the heart of Edinburgh, within a 5-minute walk of The ...
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Also compare: Malmaison in Edinburgh · Holidu in Edinburgh from USD 69/night · Booking.com in Edinburgh from USD 101/night
Stays are listed by our booking partners, not editor picks. We earn a commission if you book, at no cost to you.
Every restaurant, cafe, market and bar we cover in Edinburgh, pinned. Click a pin for the page.
Peak food season: May to October is the working season, with the Edinburgh Food Festival at George Square in late July and the Fringe pushing kitchens flat-out through August. September brings grouse and the autumn seafood landing. December is the Christmas Market on Princes Street.
Local dining hours: Lunch 12:00-14:30. Dinner 18:00-22:00, last orders typically 21:30 in residential neighbourhoods like Bruntsfield and Stockbridge. Old Town and Leith kitchens often run later during the August Fringe. Pubs serve food 12:00-21:00; last orders for drinks 23:00 or midnight.
Tipping: A 10 to 12.5 percent service charge is often added at sit-down restaurants. Check the bill before tipping more; if service is on, additional tipping is optional. Pubs and counters do not expect tips; rounding up the round is welcome. Cash reaches staff most reliably.
Edinburgh's signature dishes include Haggis, neeps and tatties, Cullen skink, Scotch pie, Scottish smoked salmon, Fish and chips. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.
TableJourney editors map Edinburgh by district. Old Town, New Town, Leith, Stockbridge are among the strongest for food, each with its own guide.
Editor picks in Edinburgh include The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart, Timberyard, plus the full fine dining chapter on TableJourney.
TableJourney covers 5 editor-picked food tours in Edinburgh, with what each shows you and how much to budget.
TableJourney's Edinburgh dietary chapter covers vegan, vegetarian, gluten_free, halal venues, each editor-picked with what to order and how to ask.
