Bakery€chiaiaTue-Sun 07:00-21:00, closed MondayWalk-in onlySfogliatella, babà au rhum
Moccia in Naples' Chiaia (Vomero branch too) has run the pastry-and-coffee counter since 1936, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the local.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open Tue-Sun 07:00-21:00. Sfogliatella riccia sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€vomeroMon-Sun 06:30-21:30Walk-in onlyTaralli sugna and pepper, sfogliatella
Leopoldo in Naples is the historic taralli-and-pastry brand founded in 1940, now run from Casavatore with city-centre cafes selling the sugna-and-pepper.
Tip: Multiple branches across town; the Vomero flagship has the longest counter. Taralli retail at 8 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Taralli sugna e pepe
Bakery€toledoMon-Sat 09:00-20:00Walk-in onlyChocolate, cioccolata calda, foresta
Gay-Odin in Naples on Via Toledo has run the city's defining chocolate counter since 1894, with the forest chocolate log (foresta) and the dense cioccolata.
Tip: Eight Naples locations; the Via Toledo flagship is the oldest. The foresta retails at 30 euros per kilo.
Worth the queue: Foresta chocolate log
Bakery€toledoDaily 07:00-20:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella riccia and frolla
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€vomeroDaily 07:00-21:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella riccia and frolla, babà, pastiera
Pasticceria Bellavia in Naples' Vomero has run a Campanian-Sicilian carte since 1925, with the sfogliatella riccia and the babà au rhum the standout daily.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-21:00 on Via Luca Giordano. Counter only; the riccia is the local order.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia
Bakery€vomeroDaily 06:30-22:00Walk-in onlySfogliatella, babà, mignon pastries
Bellavia in Vomero on Via Luca Giordano is the long-running neighbourhood pasticceria and bar, with the sfogliatella riccia, the babà bagnati and the small.
Tip: Open daily from 06:30; the sfogliatella riccia and the babà are the lead-orders. The bar runs a busy morning coffee crowd.
Worth the queue: Sfogliatella riccia