Montreal's bakery story starts with bagels: St-Viateur has hand-rolled and wood-fired its honey-boiled rings in Mile End since 1957, while Fairmount Bagel, the city's oldest bagel bakery, works around the clock on Avenue Fairmount. The French side is just as deep, from Mamie Clafoutis' laminated croissants on Rue Saint-Denis to Au Kouign-Amann's caramelised Breton pastry on the Plateau. For sourdough, Hof Kelsten and Guillaume both bake on Saint-Laurent in Mile End, and Automne Boulangerie's long-fermented loaves pull crowds out to Rosemont. Premiere Moisson at Atwater Market covers the classic Quebec chain end of things.
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St-Viateur has hand-rolled and wood-fired Montreal bagels around the clock since 1957, the Mile End benchmark for the honey-boiled, denser city style.
TipBuy them hot by the dozen; a sesame bagel straight from the wood oven needs nothing but your hands.
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Fairmount Bagel is Montreal's oldest bagel bakery, wood-firing sesame and poppy rings around the clock on Avenue Fairmount since 1919 a block from St-Viateur.
TipPick a side in the Fairmount-versus-St-Viateur debate by buying a hot dozen from each and comparing.
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Hof Kelsten is Jeffrey Finkelstein's bakery on Saint-Laurent in Montreal, turning out challah, rye and babka plus a lunchtime smoked-meat sandwich.
TipCome for the challah on Friday and the babka any day; the counter also does a serious matzo-ball soup.
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Mamie Clafoutis is a French bakery on Rue Saint-Denis in Montreal, filling its cases with laminated croissants, tarts and country loaves through the day.
TipThe almond croissant and the namesake clafoutis are the buys; it stays open later than most bakeries.
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Au Kouign-Amann is the tiny Plateau pastry shop in Montreal that made the caramelised Breton kouign-amann a local ritual, baked warm in small daily batches.
TipGo by 09:30 for a warm kouign-amann; when the day's batch sells out, that is it until tomorrow.
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Kem CoBa is the Mile End ice cream shop in Montreal whose salted-butter soft serve and rotating sorbets draw a summer line down Avenue Fairmount.
TipThe salted-butter and one fruit sorbet twist is the order; it is seasonal, so check before a winter trip.
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Guillaume is a modern Mile End bakery on Saint-Laurent in Montreal, prized for its sourdough loaves and a chocolate croissant many rank among the city's best.
TipBread sells out by afternoon; morning is best for the croissants and the seasonal fruit danishes.
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La Bete a Pain is chef Marc-Andre Royal's bakery-cafe on Rue Fleury in Montreal, part boulangerie and part counter for sandwiches, quiche and viennoiserie.
TipIt works as a bakery and a lunch stop; the baguette sandwiches and quiche are the midday move.
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Automne Boulangerie is a Rosemont-La Petite-Patrie bakery in Montreal whose long-fermented sourdough and buttery croissants earned a citywide following.
TipWeekend mornings sell out fast; go early for the croissants and grab a loaf while they last.
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Premiere Moisson anchors the Atwater Market bakery corner in Montreal, a Quebec chain baking country breads, viennoiserie and a classic tarte au sucre.
TipPair a loaf here with cheese and charcuterie from the market stalls for a canal-side picnic.
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St-Viateur turns out Montreal's honey-boiled, wood-fired bagels around the clock in Mile End, sold hot by the dozen from a flour-dusted Saint-Viateur counter.
OrderWood-fired bagel
TipEat a sesame bagel while it is still warm; day-old ones are for freezing and toasting later.
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Fairmount Bagel has wood-fired Montreal's oldest bagels since 1919, a 24-hour Mile End window turning out sesame and poppy rings a block from its rival.
OrderWood-fired bagel
TipBuy a hot dozen and settle the Fairmount-versus-St-Viateur argument for yourself on the walk home.
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A hot St-Viateur bagel with cream cheese is Montreal's cheapest signature bite, sold around the clock in Mile End for the price of pocket change.
OrderBagel with cream cheese
TipBuy a dozen to take home; per bagel it is far cheaper than any cafe breakfast in the city.