Basque€€€parte-vieja
Casa Urola on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian has cooked Basque market food since 1956, with pintxos downstairs and the dining room upstairs. Chef Pablo Loureiro runs both.
Signature: Kokotxas de merluza al pil pil, Cigala a la plancha, Txuleta de vaca vieja
Order: The kokotxas de merluza al pil pil downstairs first; then upstairs for the cigala and the chargrilled txuleta.
Tip: Eat pintxos at the ground-floor counter or book upstairs for a full meal. The kokotxas are the surest order in the city.
Basque€€€parte-vieja
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986. Now Inaxio Valverde runs the kitchen.
Signature: Merluza a la donostiarra, Txuleta, Tarta de queso
Order: The merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
Tip: Book the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
Basque€€€parte-vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter and a downstairs dining room.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter sauteed with egg yolk; the spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays. The bar counter is walk-in; the basement dining room takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.
Basque€€parte-vieja
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake in a wood-paper-lined tin until the top caramelised.
Signature: Tarta de queso La Vina, Pintxos clasicos, Bacalao al pil pil
Order: The tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.
Basque€€parte-vieja
Casa Alcalde on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town is a long-running classic kitchen of jamon-and-tortilla pintxos, charcuterie and a working-day menu del dia at the back.
Signature: Jamon iberico, Pintxos clasicos, Menu del dia
Order: A plate of jamon iberico at the counter; the menu del dia at the back tables.
Tip: Open daily; the lunch menu del dia is good value at 16 euros. Counter is busy from 13:00 onwards.
Basque€€gros
Casa Senra on Calle San Francisco in San Sebastian's Gros runs a working-day menu del dia and a traditional Basque pintxo counter, the neighbourhood lunch spot for the Zurriola crowd.
Signature: Menu del dia, Pintxos tradicionales, Carrillera
Order: The menu del dia at lunch; the carrillera al vino tinto if it's on the carte.
Tip: Lunch served 13:00 to 15:30; menu del dia 14 to 18 euros. Closed Sunday.
Basque€€€parte-vieja
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town has run the Martinez-Ortuzar family kitchen since 1984, anchored by an autumn mushroom counter and a basement dining room.
Signature: Setas de temporada, Txangurro al horno, Pintxo de huevo
Order: The autumn setas counter with egg yolk; spider crab baked in its shell.
Tip: Counter walk-in, basement takes reservations. October to December is peak mushroom season.