Modern Sevillian Tapas€€alameda
Espacio Eslava on Calle Eslava in Seville's San Lorenzo is the modern-tapas room since 1988, with the egg-on-mushroom-cake and the honey-glazed costilla.
Signature: Huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus, Costilla con miel, Cigarro de pringa
Order: The huevo sobre bizcocho de boletus and the slow-cooked costilla con miel de cana sirope.
Tip: Walk-in only; queue at 12:30 for lunch or 20:00 for dinner, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Tables come up at the back; bar plates come faster.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€centro
Bar Sal Gorda on Calle Alcaiceria de la Loza in Seville is the Cabrera Fernandez brothers' creative-tapas counter, with anemone cones and ox-tail donuts.
Signature: Pork cheek tacos, Anemone and plankton cone, Ox tail donut
Order: The anemone and plankton cone, then the slow-cooked ox-tail donut on the daily blackboard.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat from 12:30; closed Sunday. Walk-in only; tables for two come up fastest at the bar after 14:30.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€el-arenal
La Brunilda on Calle Galera in Seville's El Arenal quarter is the modern-tapas room that runs a quietly inventive menu of risottos, rices and small plates.
Signature: Mushroom risotto, Goat-cheese salad, Squid-ink rice
Order: The mushroom risotto and the goat-cheese-and-fig salad; the squid-ink rice on weekends.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:30. Reservations by phone only; queue from 19:30 for a bar seat if you arrive without booking.
Modern Sevillian Tapas€€santa-cruz
Vineria San Telmo on Paseo de Catalina de Ribera in Seville is the Argentine-owned tapas room beside the Alcazar gardens, the pioneer of the modern-tapas.
Signature: Squid-ink spaghetti, Mollejas, Pluma iberica
Order: The squid-ink spaghetti with seafood and the wood-grilled pluma iberica from the daily blackboard.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-16:30 and 20:00-24:00. Book the back garden room a week ahead in spring; bar plates run faster on weeknights.
Sevillian Taberna€€el-arenal
Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville's El Arenal is the bodega since 1850, the city's archetypal wine-cask room with vermut pulled.
Signature: Solomillo al whisky, Carrillada en salsa, Vermut from the barrel
Order: The solomillo al whisky and the carrillada en salsa with a copa of vermut from the cask.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00, closed Sunday Booking recommended for weekends.
Sevillian Taberna€€santa-cruz
Las Teresas on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville's Santa Cruz has hung jamones from the ceiling since 1870, the venerated old-school tabernero that anchors.
Signature: Jamon iberico de bellota, Solomillo al whisky, Salmorejo
Order: A racion of jamon iberico de bellota sliced from the leg overhead and a copa of fino En Rama.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-24:00. Order from the standing bar at front for the fastest plates; the wooden tables at back fill from 13:30.