Quimet i Quimet in Barcelona's Poble-sec is the four-generations standing bar where bottles line the wall and the cook builds montaditos on demand.
Signature dishes: Montadito of salmon with yoghurt and truffle honey, Conserva flights
Must order: The salmon-yoghurt-truffle-honey montadito and a flight of tinned mussels.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat lunch and early dinner only; closed Sunday. Arrive before 19:30 for a hope of a corner.
Address: Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes 25, 08004 Barcelona
Dos Palillos in Barcelona's Raval is Albert Raurich's Asian-tapas counter behind a black curtain inside Casa Camper. Dim sum, yakitori, sushi-bar service.
Signature: Dim sum tasting, Yakitori
Order: The full Asian tasting menu; sit at the counter to watch.
Tip: Closed Sun-Tue. Counter seats book up two weeks ahead; the back dining room is easier.
Koy Shunka in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter is Hideki Matsuhisa's one-star Japanese counter where the sashimi and nigiri arrive piece by piece from a U-shaped bar.
Signature: Tasting menu, Sashimi
Order: The Omakase tasting menu and the seaweed-and-yuzu starter.
Tip: Counter seats face the chef; book those over the back tables. Closed Sunday.
Bar del Pla in Barcelona's Born is the locals' counter on Montcada that draws the chef trade for the modernised tapas and natural-wine pours.
Signature: Beef carpaccio with truffle, Iberico pork cheeks
Order: The beef carpaccio with truffle and the slow-cooked Iberico cheeks.
Tip: Open daily lunch and dinner; book the bar over the back room. Walk-up after 22:30 is the easier slot.
Tapas 24 in Barcelona's Eixample is Carles Abellan's basement counter where the bikini truffle sandwich and the McFoie burger redefined Catalan tapas in 2006.
Signature: McFoie burger, Bikini truffle sandwich
Order: The bikini truffle sandwich and the patatas bravas.
Tip: Open 09:00-midnight daily; no reservations. Aim for 12:30 lunch or 19:30 dinner.
Cerveseria Catalana in Barcelona's Eixample is the all-day tapas counter where every plate sits on the bar in glass cases. Order by pointing at sight.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Pulpo a la gallega
Order: The patatas bravas, the pulpo, the seared foie montadito.
Tip: No reservations; queue forms at 13:00. Get there at 12:30 for a counter seat or skip to 16:30 service.
Casa Leopoldo in Barcelona's Raval, founded 1929 and revived by Romain Fornell, holds the canonical version of cap i pota and the Catalan suquet.
Signature: Cap i pota, Suquet de peix
Order: The cap i pota with chickpeas and the fish suquet for two.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and all Monday. Lunch menu del dia is the easier price point.
