Ensaïmada
The spiral pastry that defines Mallorcan baking, coiled from a dough enriched with saïm pork lard, proved slowly, baked flat and buried under icing sugar.
Where: Forn Fondo, Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo, Fornet de la Soca
Where Mallorca eats: ensaïmada, sobrassada and three stars.
Palma eats like an island capital rather than a Spanish one. The vocabulary is Mallorcan before it is Castilian: ensaïmada rather than churro, llonguet rather than bocadillo, variat rather than a tapas crawl, arròs brut rather than paella. Sobrassada, the soft paprika-cured pork you spread with a knife, turns up on bread at breakfast, melted into rice at lunch and grilled over street bonfires in January. The city's oldest rooms hold the line on that cooking. Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has poured hot chocolate since the 1700s, Forn Fondo has baked on Carrer de la Unió since 1911, and the barrel-lined cellers still serve sopes mallorquines to a local lunch crowd at 13:30. Above them sits a newer layer: three Michelin stars, a cluster of Repsol Soles, and a Santa Catalina grid where Chilean, Peruvian and Japanese kitchens work Mallorcan produce. Drink Binissalem and Pla i Llevant, finish with hierbas, and eat on Spanish hours.
Every restaurant, cafe, market and bar we cover in Palma, pinned. Click a pin for the page.
The plates that define eating in Palma.
The spiral pastry that defines Mallorcan baking, coiled from a dough enriched with saïm pork lard, proved slowly, baked flat and buried under icing sugar.
Where: Forn Fondo, Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo, Fornet de la Soca
Dense Mallorcan brown bread rubbed with ramallet tomato and olive oil, salted, then loaded with cheese, cured meat or olives. The island's default plate at any hour.
Mallorca's soft cured sausage: ground pork worked with paprika and salt, then matured in island air until it can be spread with a knife rather than sliced.
Where: Bar Espanya, Bodega La Rambla
The Mallorcan vegetable bake: aubergine, potato and red pepper fried separately in olive oil, layered in a dish and covered with a slow tomato sauce.
Offal, potato and vegetables fried hard together in olive oil with fennel and paprika, a Mallorcan use-everything dish that turns up in the island's best kitchens.
Mallorca's loose, soupy rice, cooked with game, pork, sobrassada and a warm spice mix that stains the broth the dirty brown the name refers.
Where: Celler Sa Premsa
A thin, yeasted Mallorcan flatbread with no cheese, covered in diced tomato, green pepper and onion dressed in olive oil and baked until the edges crisp.
Where: Fornet de la Soca
Not a soup at all: sliced dry Mallorcan bread soaked in a broth of cabbage, greens and garlic until the pan turns dense enough to eat with a fork.
Where: Celler Sa Premsa
The Mallorcan almond cake: ground almonds, eggs and sugar with no flour at all, baked flat and served with a scoop of almond ice cream on top.
Where: Celler Sa Premsa
Mallorca's combination plate: four or five leftover tapas served together on one dish, always with ensaladilla rusa and usually with croquettes and meatballs.
Where: Bodega La Rambla
The split Palma bread roll, small and oval with a scored ridge down the middle, filled with Mahón cheese, cured ham or sobrassada and grated tomato.
Where: Can Trispol, Forn Fondo
The island's herb liqueur, macerated with fennel, rosemary, lemon verbena and camomile, poured over ice as a digestif or straight into a coffee.
A handful of the places we send friends to when they are in Palma.
El Camino is a marble counter on Carrer de Can Brondo in Palma, a wine bar in the Barcelona tapas mould pouring Mallorcan bottles with plates to order.
Signature: Iberian ham, Manchego cheese
Stagier Bar is a small Santa Catalina room in Palma where a Chilean-Peruvian couple plate Latin-leaning tapas learned in the kitchens that trained them.
Signature: Sourdough with chimichurri butter
Casa Maruka has cooked market-led Mallorcan food in Palma since 2007, run by María José Calabria and Alberto Serrano and carrying a Repsol Sol.
Signature: Suckling pig, Oxtail stew
Ola del Mar sits on the water at Portixol in Palma, cooking rice dishes and the day's catch from an elegant dining room with a sea-facing terrace.
Signature: Rice dishes, Grilled fish
Marui Sushi works a Japanese counter on Plaça del Progrés in Palma's Santa Catalina, cutting sushi and sashimi alongside small plated izakaya dishes.
Signature: Sushi, Sashimi
Sumaq cooks Peruvian food on Carrer de Cotoner in Palma's Santa Catalina, drawing on coastal, Amazonian and Andean cooking with Mallorcan produce.
Signature: Ceviche
Palma's walled old town, where starred dining rooms, 1911 bakeries and barrel-lined cellers sit within four streets of each other.
Best for: Ensaïmada, Tasting menus, Vermouth, Celler cooking
A former fishermen's quarter turned Palma's busiest eating district, built around a market hall and a grid of small international kitchens.
Best for: Brunch, Small plates, Peruvian, Craft beer
The old merchant quarter between the cathedral and the port, with garden dining rooms, marina kitchens and vegan cooking in stone mansions.
Best for: Garden dining, Seafood, Plant-based, Specialty coffee
Palma's former potters' quarter, long neglected and now the place to find llonguet counters and terraces that locals still outnumber visitors on.
Best for: Llonguet, Almond ice cream, Terrace drinking
A fishing harbour twenty minutes east of Palma's centre, running into Es Molinar along a seafront promenade of rice kitchens and terraces.
Best for: Rice dishes, Grilled fish, Seafront terraces
Peak food season: May to June and September to October. July and August are hot and booked out, and some kitchens close for part of August.
Local dining hours: Lunch 13:30-15:30, dinner 20:30-22:30. Many old-town kitchens close Sunday and Monday.
Tipping: Service is included. Rounding up, or leaving 5 to 10 percent after a long dinner, is generous rather than expected.
Palma's signature dishes include Ensaïmada, Pa amb oli, Sobrassada, Tumbet, Frit mallorquí. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.
TableJourney editors map Palma by district. Casco Antiguo, Santa Catalina, La Lonja, Sa Gerreria are among the strongest for food, each with its own guide.
Editor picks in Palma include Marc Fosh, DINS Santi Taura, Zaranda, plus the full fine dining chapter on TableJourney.
TableJourney covers 3 editor-picked food tours in Palma, with what each shows you and how much to budget.
TableJourney's Palma dietary chapter covers vegan, vegetarian, gluten_free venues, each editor-picked with what to order and how to ask.