Modern Andalusian€€€centro
Tradevo Centro on Calle Cuesta del Rosario in Seville is chef Gonzalo Jurado's modern Andalusian counter since 2016, listed in the Michelin Guide.
Signature: Tartar de atun rojo, Carrillera al PX, Croqueta de chipiron
Order: The tartar de atun rojo and the carrillera de iberico en salsa de Pedro Ximenez.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-24:00. The Plaza de la Pescaderia terrace is the best seat in shoulder season; reserve at thefork.es.
Spanish€€€triana
Vega 10 on Calle Rosario Vega in Seville's Triana, opened in 2014, marries Andalusian tradition with Asian and South American influences, with bull's tail.
Signature: Canelones de rabo de toro, Tartar de atun, Tapa de cochinillo
Order: The canelones de rabo de toro and the tuna tartare from the open kitchen.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 and 20:30-23:45, closed Sunday. The terrace between Triana and Los Remedios fills from 21:30; book by phone a week ahead.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Las Golondrinas on Calle Antillano Campos in Seville's Triana is the tile-walled tapas counter since 1962, with the punta de solomillo on toast and grilled.
Signature: Punta de solomillo, Champinones al ajillo, Lomo a la pimienta
Order: The punta de solomillo on toast and the champinones al ajillo.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-16:00 and 20:00-24:00. Standing-room only and tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:30.
Modern Andalusian€€€alameda
Az-Zait on Plaza San Lorenzo in Seville is a Michelin Bib Gourmand modern Andalusian room (Bib since 2004), with the wood-grilled octopus and confit cod.
Signature: Pulpo a la brasa, Bacalao confitado, Tartar de presa iberica
Order: The pulpo a la brasa over potato puree and the bacalao confitado en aceite de oliva virgen.
Tip: Open Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 and 20:30-23:30, closed Sunday evening and Monday. Book a window seat overlooking Plaza San Lorenzo a week ahead.
Sevillian Taberna€€triana
Bar Santa Ana on Calle Pureza in Seville's Triana is the bullfighter-themed taberna opposite the Santa Ana church since 1912, with the canonical tortilla.
Signature: Tortilla espanola, Carrillada, Salmorejo
Order: The tortilla espanola and a racion of carrillada en salsa, with a copa of fino.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00 and 19:30-24:00, closed Sunday. The bullfighter-photograph walls fill from 14:00 with regulars.
Sevillian Taberna€€centro
El Rinconcillo on Calle Gerona in Seville is the city's oldest tapas bar, open since 1670 and run by the De Rueda family since 1858, with the cuenta still.
Signature: Espinacas con garbanzos, Pavias de bacalao, Jamon iberico
Order: Espinacas con garbanzos, the city's canonical tapa, then pavias de bacalao with a glass of fino.
Tip: Open daily 13:00-01:30. Squeeze into the standing bar in the front; the dining room behind is a reservation room with full plates.