Italian$$$south-end
Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette's Italian enoteca on Shawmut Avenue runs house-made charcuterie and Roman pastas in Boston's South End since 2009. Natural-wine list, 36 seats.
Signature: Charcuterie board, Cacio e pepe pizza
Order: The charcuterie board, all five cuts, with the bagna cauda.
Tip: The marble counter is the better solo seat. Walk in at 17:00 for the easy table.
Japanese$$$$back-bay
Ken Oringer's UNI inside the Eliot Hotel on Commonwealth Avenue has run the city's contemporary izakaya programme in Boston since 2002, expanded 2016. Nigiri, sashimi, late-night ramen.
Signature: Hamachi sashimi, Wagyu nigiri
Order: The omakase nigiri flight and the spicy tuna roll with toasted sesame.
Tip: Late-night ramen menu kicks in at 22:00; the room is at its best after the dinner rush clears.
Seafood$$$seaport-fort-point
Row 34 on Congress Street has run the Fort Point oyster room in Boston since 2013. Named for row 34 in Duxbury Bay, the bivalve list runs 20 East Coast varieties daily.
Signature: Duxbury oysters, Crispy oysters
Order: A dozen mixed oysters and the crispy oysters with sriracha aioli.
Tip: The bar runs the same menu without the reservation lead time, and Tuesday nights are the easy walk-in seat at the counter.
American brasserie$$$kenmore-fenway
Garrett Harker's Eastern Standard reopened in the Bower complex on Beacon Street in 2023, recovering the Kenmore Square brasserie template Boston lost in 2020. Cocktail programme, all-day menu.
Signature: Burger and frites, Oysters Rockefeller
Order: The ESK burger with house frites and an Aviation cocktail.
Tip: Pre-Sox-game dinner books out by 17:30. Late-night service runs to midnight on weekends.
Steakhouse$$$$beacon-hill
Jamie Mammano's modern steakhouse inside the XV Beacon Hotel has anchored Beacon Hill in Boston since 2007. Dry-aged Black Angus, raw bar, a 1,200-bottle wine cellar.
Signature: Dry-aged porterhouse, Tomahawk for two
Order: The 28-day dry-aged ribeye, medium rare, with bone marrow.
Tip: Lunch is the under-the-radar seat. Pre-theatre menu at 17:30 prices the steak below the dinner card.
Eastern Mediterranean$$$cambridge
Ana Sortun's Inman Square room has run an Eastern Mediterranean kitchen in Cambridge since 2001. Turkish, Syrian and Lebanese plates from Siena Farms produce, a Beard Award since 2005.
Signature: Sultan's delight, Spiced chickpea fritters
Order: The sultan's delight: tamarind-glazed beef on smoky eggplant cream.
Tip: The garden patio in summer is one of Cambridge's best outdoor seats. Books out three weeks ahead in season.