Restaurants in Vieux-Lille

Coup de Main ★ 4.5

Modern FrenchChef Victor Berthe€€€Vieux-LilleWed-Sat 12:00-13:30 and 19:30-21:30; closed Sunday to Tuesday

Coup de Main on Rue Saint-André in Lille is a small kitchen and wine shop in one, a short card of small-producer cooking with a sommelier on the floor.

Signature: Sharing starters, Vendanges tasting menu

Order: The six-course Vendanges menu at dinner.

Tip: Lunch menus run 22 and 25 euros, dinner 70 euros. The wine shop keeps longer hours than the restaurant.

Le 49R ★ 4.5

Modern FrenchChef Antoine Coutier€€€€Vieux-LilleTue-Fri 12:00-13:15; Tue and Thu-Sat 19:30-21:00

Le 49R occupies a restored 17th-century mansion on Rue Royale in Lille, Antoine Coutier's tasting menu upstairs and a dining bar for a glass downstairs.

Signature: Single seasonal tasting menu

Order: The single menu, which is the only option in the evening.

Tip: The evening runs one menu only. The dining bar takes walk-ins for a glass and a snack.

La Brasserie du Cerisier ★ 4.2

Brasserie€€€Vieux-LilleWed-Sun 12:00-14:00; Wed-Sat 19:00-22:00

La Brasserie du Cerisier is the ground-floor room under the starred kitchen on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille, a weekly market card and a cocktail list.

Signature: Weekly market menu, Signature cocktails

Order: The market menu, rewritten every week.

Tip: It shares an address and a phone line with the starred dining room upstairs, so specify which one you want.

De Rode Koe ★ 4.0

Vegetarian€€Vieux-LilleMon 11:30-15:00 and 18:00-22:00; Wed-Fri 11:30-15:00 and 18:00-22:00; Sat 11:30-22:00; Sun 11:00-15:30 and 18:00-22:00; closed Tuesday

De Rode Koe on Rue des Trois-Mollettes in Lille cooks a fresh-produce card that leans vegetarian and vegan, with fish, meat and house burgers alongside.

Signature: Ravioles, House burgers

Order: The ravioles, from the vegetarian half of the card.

Tip: Plates land around 15 euros. Saturday runs non-stop from 11:30, which is unusual in Vieux-Lille.

Le Broc (Vieux-Lille) ★ 3.9

French regional€€Vieux-LilleSun-Thu 12:00-13:45 and 19:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-13:45 and 19:00-22:30

The Vieux-Lille branch of Le Broc sits on Place Louise de Bettignies, the same cheese-led card of fondue, raclette and tartiflette in a wood-lined room.

Signature: Fondue, Tartiflette

Order: Fondue, if there are at least two of you.

Tip: Both Lille branches keep the same hours and the same card, so pick on location alone.

Bacio Divino ★ 4.2

Italian€€€Vieux-LilleSun 11:00-15:00; Mon-Thu 19:00-21:30; Fri 19:15-22:30; Sat 19:00-22:30

Bacio Divino on Rue Saint-André in Lille cooks a dinner card of Italian classics six nights a week, and turns the room over to brunch every Sunday.

Signature: Lasagne, Antipasti

Order: Traditional lasagne, from the standing card.

Tip: Dinner runs Monday to Saturday. Sunday belongs entirely to the all-you-can-eat brunch.

Le Barbier qui Fume (Vieux-Lille) ★ 4.0

American BBQ€€Vieux-LilleMon-Fri 10:00-15:00 and 18:00-00:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-00:00

Le Barbier qui Fume on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille smokes its own meat, onglet and Quebec-style brisket, and runs a weekday lunch formula at 18.50 euros.

Signature: Beef onglet with shallots, Quebec-style brisket

Order: Beef onglet with shallots, from the smoker.

Tip: Weekend service runs non-stop from 10:00, which is unusual for a smokehouse.

Le Porthos ★ 3.8

French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 09:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-00:00

Le Porthos on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille is a brick-walled estaminet cooking the regional card: carbonade, potjevleesch and welsh, served all day at weekends.

Signature: Carbonade flamande, Potjevleesch

Order: Carbonade flamande, with the house frites.

Tip: The kitchen runs 12:00 to 14:00 and 19:00 to 22:00 on weekdays, then straight through from 12:00 to 22:30 on Saturday and to 22:00 on Sunday.

Fine Dining in Vieux-Lille

Le Restaurant du Cerisier 1 ★ ★ 4.7

Modern FrenchChef Guillaume Barengo€€€€€105Vieux-LilleMon 12:15-13:15 and 19:15-20:30; Thu 19:15-20:30; Fri 12:15-13:15 and 19:15-20:30; Sat-Sun 12:15-13:00 and 19:15-20:30Book 3 weeks ahead

Le Restaurant du Cerisier holds a Michelin star on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille, where Guillaume Barengo runs one set menu from an open kitchen.

Order: Whatever the single set menu is running that week.

Tip: There is no a la carte here. The vegetarian version of the Amarelle menu runs at the same 105 euro price, so say so when you book.

Pureté 1 ★ ★ 4.7

Modern FrenchChef Gérald Guille€€€€€90 to €110Vieux-LilleTue 19:30-21:15; Wed-Sat 12:15-13:00 and 19:30-21:15Book 3 weeks ahead

Pureté is Gérald Guille's Michelin-starred room on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille, a narrow dining room built around tasting menus and an open pass.

Order: The five-course menu, the shortest way into this kitchen.

Tip: The 55 euro weekday lunch is the cheapest seat in a starred Lille dining room, and it runs Wednesday to Friday only.

La Table du Clarance ★ 4.2

Modern French€€€€€89Vieux-LilleLunch 12:00-13:30; dinner 19:30-21:00Book 2 weeks ahead

La Table du Clarance sits in an 18th-century Lille mansion off Rue de la Barre, serving seasonal set menus under panelled ceilings and on a garden terrace.

Order: The Eclats du Soir dinner menu.

Tip: The kitchen changed hands and the room lost its Michelin star after the 2025 guide. It now runs a looser, cheaper card.

Bloempot ★ 4.8

French regionalChef Florent Ladeyn€€€€€80Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:00; closed Sunday and MondayBook 3 weeks ahead

Bloempot is Florent Ladeyn's converted carpentry workshop in Lille, cooking Flanders produce hard and plating it plainly on brutalist ceramics.

Order: Red cabbage steak with concentrated meat jus and a cherry quenelle.

Tip: The 37 euro weekday lunch is the cheap way in. Beers come from Ladeyn's own Bierbuik brewpub down the road.

Le Braque ★ 4.6

Modern FrenchChef Damien Laforce€€€Vieux-LilleTue-Fri 12:00-13:30 and 19:00-22:30; Sat 12:30-13:30 and 19:00-22:30; closed Sunday and MondayBook 2 weeks ahead

Le Braque on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille is Damien Laforce's room, built on foraging, hunting and line-caught fish, with the kitchen open to a counter.

Order: Line-caught fish handled by the ikejime method.

Tip: Counter seats line the walls under the glass roof and the kitchen is open to the room. Book anyway, because it fills.

Chez Georges ★ 4.5

Modern French€€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat 19:00-22:00; closed SundayBook 2 weeks ahead

Chez Georges is a dinner-only auberge on Rue Saint-André in Lille, terracotta-toned and cooking northern terroir with tight technique and maceration wines.

Order: The tasting menu, which is where this kitchen argues its case.

Tip: Dinner only, six nights a week. Glasses start around 8 euros and lean heavily on macerated whites.

Le Lion Bossu ★ 4.1

FrenchChef Laurence Cou退€€50 to €70Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 19:00-21:30; Fri 12:00-13:00 and 19:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 12:00-13:30 and 19:00-21:30Book 1 week ahead

Le Lion Bossu occupies a 1681 brick house off Place du Lion d'Or in Lille, where Laurence Coué cooks classical French menus under exposed beams.

Order: The Grand Gousier menu, the 70 euro long form of the kitchen.

Tip: The 50 euro menu is the sensible order. The Grand Gousier at 70 euros is the longer version of the same classical kitchen.

Casual Dining in Vieux-Lille

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00

Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.

Signature: Gratin de la Vieille, Carbonade flamande

Order: Gratin de la Vieille, a pancake baked with endive, ham and maroilles.

Tip: The courtyard terrace fills first on a warm evening. Plat du jour runs at 9.90 or 14.90 euros.

Estaminet Chez la Vieille ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat, lunch and dinner service; closed Sunday

Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.

Signature: Croquettes au maroilles, Poulet au maroilles

Order: Maroilles croquettes first, then the chicken in maroilles sauce.

Tip: Same family runs four estaminets in Lille. This is the one to pick if maroilles is the point of the meal.

L'Estaminet du Welsh ★ 4.0

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00, except Wednesday and Thursday lunch

L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.

Signature: Welsh au maroilles, Potjevleesch

Order: The welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.

Tip: Closed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.

La Petite Table ★ 4.2

French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 11:30-16:00 and 17:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:30-16:30 and 17:00-23:00; closed Sunday and Monday

La Petite Table has run on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille since 2003, a small estaminet doing carbonade, welsh and potjevleesch properly by hand.

Signature: Carbonade flamande, Potjevleesch

Order: Potjevleesch with the house frites.

Tip: Finish with the spéculoos mousse rather than the café gourmand.

Les Compagnons de la Grappe ★ 4.3

French€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop

Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.

Signature: Welsh, Onglet frites

Order: Onglet frites, cooked over the grill.

Tip: The kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.

Estaminet La Ch'tite Brigitte ★ 4.2

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 11:45-22:30, bookings only

La Ch'tite Brigitte on Rue des Bouchers in Lille is Clément Richevaux's estaminet, built on the northern dishes his grandmother Brigitte cooked.

Signature: Croque-monsieur au maroilles, Rollmops

Order: The maroilles croque-monsieur, or the mixed northern platter.

Tip: The room takes bookings only, and it spreads across two shopfronts on Rue des Bouchers.

Bierbuik ★ 4.4

French regionalChef Florent Ladeyn€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Bierbuik is Florent Ladeyn's brewpub on Rue Royale in Lille, wood-fired Flemish street food downstairs and the Bloemeke estaminet menu upstairs.

Signature: Frites sauce maroilles, Flamiche

Order: Frites with maroilles sauce, from the ground-floor brewpub counter.

Tip: The upstairs Bloemeke runs a three-course estaminet menu at 30 euros. Beers use Mont des Cats hops.

Chez Raoul Estaminet ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed 18:30-22:30; Thu 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Fri 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-16:00 and 21:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30

Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.

Signature: Gratin de chicons, Welsh au maroilles

Order: Gratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.

Tip: Closed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.

Estaminet Au Soyeux ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00

Au Soyeux on Rue de Gand in Lille runs 44 covers of ch'ti cooking, potjevleesch and carbonade with maroilles croquettes and roasted bone marrow.

Signature: Potjevleesch, Croquettes au maroilles

Order: Potjevleesch, the jellied terrine of four white meats.

Tip: Only 24 seats indoors plus a 20-seat terrace, so book for a weekend evening.

Estaminet Chez Ronny ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 19:00-22:30; Wed-Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-14:30; closed Monday

Chez Ronny on Rue de Gand in Lille is a 1970s-dressed estaminet named for the northern artist Ronny Coutteure, cooking northern French and Belgian plates.

Signature: Welsh, Boulets à la liégeoise

Order: Boulets à la liégeoise, the Belgian meatballs in sirop de Liège.

Tip: Sunday is lunch only, and it runs on bookings. It is the newest estaminet on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.

L'Estaminet Lillois ★ 4.0

French regional€€Vieux-LilleWed 19:00-22:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday and Tuesday

L'Estaminet Lillois on Rue de la Barre in Lille pours around twenty regional beers and cooks carbonade, potjevleesch and chicken in maroilles.

Signature: Poulet maroilles, Welsh pain d'épices

Order: The welsh made with pain d'épices instead of plain bread.

Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday is dinner only and Sunday is lunch only.

L'Arrière Pays ★ 4.0

French€€Vieux-LilleMon 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:00; Tue 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sun 11:30-15:00 and 18:30-21:30

L'Arrière Pays on Rue Basse in Lille builds open-faced sourdough tartines and regional plates, with a lunch formula that still lands under 14 euros.

Signature: Tartine en boîte, Regional cheese boards

Order: The tartine en boîte, cured ham under melted camembert with walnuts and raisins.

Tip: Two tartines run 10.90 euros and three run 12.90, which is about the cheapest sit-down lunch on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.

La Piazzetta ★ 4.2

Italian€€Vieux-LilleTue-Fri 11:45-14:00; Sat 11:45-15:00; closed Sunday and Monday

La Piazzetta opened on Rue de la Barre in Lille as a fresh-pasta counter and Italian grocery, run by a chef who came from Big Mamma's La Bellezza.

Signature: Fresh lasagne, Ravioli

Order: Whatever ravioli is rolled that morning.

Tip: Lunch only, five days a week. There are very few seats, so come early or take the pasta away.

Estaminet La Vieille France ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:30; closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch

Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.

Signature: Carbonade flamande, Poulet au maroilles

Order: Carbonade flamande, cooked long in brown beer.

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch. Sixty-five covers fill up, so a weekend evening needs booking.

Cafés in Vieux-Lille

Paddo Café ★ 4.4

Caf退Vieux-LilleDaily 08:00-17:00, kitchen closes 16:00Wifi

Paddo Café on Rue du Cirque in Lille brought Antipodean brunch north, ricotta pancakes and avocado toast alongside properly pulled specialty coffee.

Signature drink: Flat white

Tip: No reservations at all, and the kitchen stops an hour before the room does.

Tamper! Espresso Bar ★ 4.6

Caf退Vieux-LilleWed-Sat 09:00-18:00; Sun 09:00-15:00; closed Monday and TuesdayWork-friendlyWifi

Tamper! sits on the pedestrian cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, an espresso bar working filter, siphon and piston alongside salads and quiches.

Signature drink: Filter coffee, siphon or pour-over

Tip: Beans are graded to a minimum of 85 points, so ask which single origin is on filter today.

Elizabeth's ★ 4.1

Caf退Vieux-LilleMon-Fri 10:30-19:00; Sat 09:30-19:00; Sun 11:00-18:00Work-friendlyWifi

Elizabeth's on Rue Basse in Lille has run as an English tea room since 2011, scones with orange marmalade, cupcakes and a Sunday brunch service.

Signature drink: Pot of tea, poured properly

Tip: Sunday brunch runs 11:00 to 13:45 and books out, so reserve a table rather than walking up.

Oxalis et Bergamote ★ 4.2

Caf退Vieux-LilleWed-Fri 12:00-18:00; Sat 13:00-18:00; Sun 10:30-12:30; closed Monday and Tuesday

Oxalis et Bergamote on Rue d'Angleterre in Lille is a pastry counter and tea room, hazelnut granola and cinnamon rolls with a chicory latte to match.

Signature drink: Chicory latte

Tip: Sunday hours are short, 10:30 to 12:30 only, and the counter empties fast.

Maison Scarlett ★ 4.0

Caf退Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 09:30-18:30; closed Sunday and Monday

Maison Scarlett on Place des Patiniers in Lille is a pastry counter and tea room of tartelettes, pavlova, madeleines and cannelés, with savoury plates too.

Signature drink: Flavoured latte

Tip: Quiches and burgers run alongside the pastry, which makes this a workable light lunch stop.

Bakeries in Vieux-Lille

Aux Merveilleux de Fred (Rue de la Monnaie) ★ 4.5

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleDaily 07:30-19:45Walk-in onlyMeringue and whipped cream pastry

Aux Merveilleux de Fred started on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille, and this counter still sells the meringue and cream pastry that gave the brand its name.

Tip: Buy the small size and eat it standing. The cream collapses within the hour.

Worth the queue: The merveilleux

L'Ogre de Carrouselberg ★ 4.6

Bakery€€€Vieux-LilleWed-Fri 10:00-18:30; Sat 09:30-18:30; Sun 09:30-13:00; closed Monday and TuesdayWalk-in onlyFine patisserie

L'Ogre de Carrouselberg on Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille builds the prettiest pastry in the city, from the Fraisier de Phalempin to trays of P'tits Pouchins.

Tip: The shop closes annually from 12 to 23 August, so do not plan a mid-August visit around it.

Worth the queue: Le Fraisier de Phalempin

Boulangerie Vianney Degruson ★ 4.5

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 07:00-19:30; Sun 07:30-13:30; closed MondayWalk-in onlySourdough and organic breads

Vianney Degruson bakes sourdough and organic breads on Rue Saint-André in Lille, with viennoiserie laminated in AOP butter and a counter of galettes.

Tip: Their bread supplies other Lille kitchens, including the banh mi counter on Avenue du Peuple Belge.

Worth the queue: Pain d'épices

Boulangerie Brier ★ 4.3

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat 07:30-19:30; closed SundayWalk-in onlyRegional pastry

Boulangerie Brier on Rue Esquermoise in Lille bakes the regional canon, cramique au sucre, palet de dame and a vanilla-filled gaufre of its own.

Tip: This is the cheaper place to try a gaufre fourrée before you queue at the famous one up the street.

Worth the queue: Gaufre fourrée à la vanille

Maison Miettes ★ 4.0

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat 10:30-19:00; closed SundayWalk-in onlyPatisserie

Maison Miettes on Rue Lepelletier in Lille is a small pastry counter in the middle of Vieux-Lille, open six days a week from mid-morning to early evening.

Tip: It opens at 10:30, later than the bread bakeries, so it is an afternoon stop rather than a breakfast one.

Worth the queue: Seasonal tartelettes

Boulangerie Mosin ★ 3.7

BakeryVieux-LilleMon-Fri 07:15-19:00; closed Saturday and SundayWalk-in onlyTradition baguettes

Boulangerie Mosin on Rue Colbert in Lille is a weekday-only bakery of tradition baguettes, croissants and apple turnovers, with cakes made to order.

Tip: Weekdays only. This is a workers' bakery, not a weekend destination.

Worth the queue: Chausson aux pommes

Oxalis et Bergamote ★ 4.2

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleWed-Fri 12:00-18:00; Sat 13:00-18:00; Sun 10:30-12:30; closed Monday and TuesdayWalk-in onlyPatisserie and viennoiserie

Oxalis et Bergamote on Rue d'Angleterre in Lille bakes cinnamon rolls, financiers, brioches and flan, and pours a chicory latte to go with them.

Tip: Sunday is a two-hour window only, 10:30 to 12:30. Everything else is afternoons.

Worth the queue: Cinnamon roll

Maison Scarlett ★ 4.0

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 09:30-18:30; closed Sunday and MondayWalk-in onlyPatisserie and viennoiserie

Maison Scarlett on Place des Patiniers in Lille runs a pastry counter of tartelettes, pavlova, madeleines and cannelés, with savoury plates at lunch.

Tip: The savoury side, quiches and sandwiches, makes this a workable lunch as well as a cake stop.

Worth the queue: Cannelés

Méert ★ 4.7

Bakery€€Vieux-LilleMon 14:00-19:00; Tue-Sat 10:00-19:30; Sun 09:00-19:00Walk-in onlyVanilla-filled flat waffle

Méert has traded on Rue Esquermoise in Lille since 1761, and its flat waffle filled with Madagascar vanilla sugar is still the counter's signature.

Tip: The waffle is meant to be eaten at room temperature, not hot. The tea room at the same address opens at 12:00 Tuesday to Friday and at 10:00 on Saturday and Sunday.

Worth the queue: The Méert waffle

Wine Bars in Vieux-Lille

Le JaJa ★ 4.2

Wine bar€€Vieux-LilleDaily 18:00-00:00

Le JaJa on Rue Saint-André in Lille pours from a visible cellar, wines by the glass with generous boards of charcuterie, cheese and seafood.

Signature pour: Whatever the sommelier is pouring blind

Wine focus: Glass-pour list with a visible cellar

Food: Composed sharing boards

Tip: The in-house sommelier runs blind tastings. Ask when the next one is rather than guessing.

Au Gré du Vin ★ 4.3

Wine bar€€Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 10:00-19:30; Sun 11:00-15:00; closed Monday

Au Gré du Vin on Rue au Péterinck in Lille is a red-brick cellar with a paved terrace, biodynamic bottles drunk among the racks with small plates.

Signature pour: A biodynamic white from the shelf behind you

Wine focus: Biodynamic and organic growers

Food: Gravlax, truffle and tapenade plates

Tip: It shuts by 19:30, so this is an aperitif rather than a late-night room.

Les Frères Pinard ★ 4.4

Wine bar€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 17:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 16:00-22:00

Les Frères Pinard on Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille is a wine bar and grocery in one, where you compose your own board from the shelves before you sit.

Signature pour: A bottle chosen from the vaulted cellar downstairs

Wine focus: Regional French list across two floors

Food: Build-your-own cheese and charcuterie boards

Tip: The vaulted cellar downstairs is the quieter room. Ask for it when you arrive.

La Cave à Manger de Jacques Dumas ★ 4.1

Wine bar€€Vieux-LilleTue-Sat 17:30-23:30; closed Sunday and Monday

La Cave à Manger de Jacques Dumas on Rue des Bouchers in Lille sells growers' bottles to drink in or take away, with charcuterie boards alongside.

Signature pour: A grower's bottle taken from the shelf

Wine focus: Independent vignerons

Food: Mixed charcuterie boards

Tip: Evenings only, five nights a week. Bottles cost the same to drink in as to carry out.

Bars in Vieux-Lille

Joker Cocktails & Bar ★ 4.4

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 18:00-00:00; Fri 18:00-01:00; Sat 17:00-02:00

Joker on Place Louise de Bettignies in Lille rewrites its cocktail list every week around house-made juices, syrups, purees and its own infusions.

Signature drink: The Mayagarita, built on Tequila Patron Silver

Food: Drinks only

Tip: The card changes weekly, so ask what came in rather than ordering from memory.

Little Havana ★ 3.9

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 18:00-00:00; Thu 18:00-01:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-02:00; Sun 18:00-00:00

Little Havana on Place Maurice Schumann in Lille is the city's mojito room, a Cuban-themed bar running the drink through a long list of fruit variations.

Signature drink: Mojito, in white peach or basil and strawberry

Food: Charcuterie platters

Tip: It traded as Le Draque before this. Order a flavoured mojito rather than the classic.

Bartown ★ 4.0

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 18:00-00:00; Fri-Sat 18:00-02:00

Bartown on Rue Saint-Sébastien in Lille serves gourmet tapas boards beside house cocktails named for city landmarks, Eglise Caipi and Tour Mojito among them.

Signature drink: House cocktails named for Lille landmarks

Food: Tapas boards

Tip: The room is small and fills after 21:00 at weekends. Go early for a seat at the bar.

Le Quai des Bananes ★ 3.8

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 17:00-00:00; Thu 17:00-00:30; Fri-Sat 16:30-02:00; Sun 16:30-00:00

Le Quai des Bananes on Rue Royale in Lille is jungle-dressed and loud, pouring large-format tropical drinks with its own kitchen counter attached.

Signature drink: Large-format tropical cocktails

Food: Banana Kitchen, the in-house food counter

Tip: The alcohol-free list runs past forty mocktails, which is rare at this scale in Lille.

Le Noao ★ 4.0

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€Vieux-LilleMon 17:00-23:00; Tue-Wed 17:00-00:00; Thu-Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 15:00-02:00; closed Sunday

Le Noao on Rue de Weppes in Lille pours classics and revisions, Old Fashioned through Basil Smash, with tapas and a vaulted cellar bar underneath.

Signature drink: Basil Smash, from the revisited classics

Food: Tapas

Tip: The basement room hosts themed nights and can be booked out, so check what is on downstairs.

La Planque ★ 4.0

Cocktail barCellar barVieux-LilleMon-Thu 18:00-00:00; Fri 18:00-01:00; Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Sunday

La Planque hides down a staircase off Rue des Trois Mollettes in Lille, a vintage-dressed cellar where cocktails and half-litre beers both cost 5 euros.

Signature drink: Cocktails and 50cl beers, both at 5 euros

Food: Drinks only

Tip: There is no sign worth looking for. Find the staircase, then keep going down.

Amor Amor ★ 3.9

Cocktail barCocktail bar€€€Vieux-LilleTue-Wed 17:00-01:00; Thu-Sat 17:00-02:00; closed Sunday and Monday

Amor Amor occupies a former private mansion on Rue Royale in Lille, a hundred-capacity cocktail room with DJs, live performers and a tapas card.

Signature drink: Cocktails, wine and champagne

Food: Tapas

Tip: It works as a bar early and a dancing room late. Come before 22:00 if you want to talk.

La Capsule ★ 4.4

Cocktail barCraft beer bar€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 17:30-01:00; Thu-Fri 17:30-02:00; Sat 16:00-01:00; Sun 17:00-00:00

La Capsule on Rue des Trois Mollettes in Lille sells no mainstream lager at all, running 28 taps and a bottle list of lambics and sours instead.

Signature drink: Kriek de Ranke, from the bottle list

Food: Drinks only

Tip: The operator counts more than 300 different beers across a year, so the taps change constantly.

La Luck ★ 4.2

Cocktail barBar and bistro€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 18:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 18:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 10:00-23:00

La Luck on Rue Princesse in Lille pours creative cocktails and natural wine, and now brews its own beer on the premises alongside a bistro card.

Signature drink: House-brewed beer

Food: Bistro plates and weekend brunch

Tip: Weekend opening starts in the morning, which makes it one of the few Vieux-Lille bars that does brunch.

Street Food in Vieux-Lille

Bierbuik ★ 4.4

Street food€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Bierbuik's ground-floor counter on Rue Royale in Lille does Flemish street food over wood fire, and the frites in maroilles sauce is the house classic.

Try: Frites sauce maroilles

Tip: Eat downstairs at the brewpub counter rather than booking the estaminet upstairs.

La Broche ★ 4.1

Street foodVieux-LilleMon-Wed 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-22:00; Thu-Fri 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-00:30; Sat 11:30-00:00; Sun 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-22:30

La Broche on Rue de Gand in Lille marinates its chicken for a full day and confits it on the spit for three hours before it ever reaches the bread.

Try: Kebab from the spit

Tip: The kitchen runs to 00:30 on Thursday and Friday, which is late for Rue de Gand.

UNIK Kebab Vieux-Lille ★ 3.5

TurkishVieux-LilleDaily 11:00-00:00

The Vieux-Lille branch of UNIK Kebab on Rue Royale serves until midnight every night, a few doors from the busiest bar strip in the quarter.

Try: Kebab

Tip: It sits on the same street as the brewpub, which is exactly why it stays open until midnight.

Smokey Banh Mi ★ 4.3

VietnameseVieux-LilleMon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-21:30; Sun 19:00-21:00

Smokey Banh Mi on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille smokes its own meat and buys its bread from the Degruson bakery up the road in Vieux-Lille.

Try: Banh mi au porc, €11.50

Tip: Everything is made in house except the bread, which comes from a named Lille bakery.

Arancini Lovers ★ 4.1

ItalianVieux-LilleTue-Sat 11:00-19:00; closed Sunday and Monday

Arancini Lovers on Rue Saint-André in Lille fries Sicilian rice balls to order, with a different filling promoted every month alongside the regulars.

Try: Arancini

Tip: Ask what the monthly special is. Cacio e pepe has been one of them.

Les Fishtons ★ 4.3

Seafood€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday

Les Fishtons on Rue des Bouchers in Lille fries Boulonnais fish for a small room of fish and chips, plus a crispy fish burger with Flemish compote.

Try: Fish and chips

Tip: The fish comes off the Boulogne boats, which is the whole point of eating it this far north.

Kitchen Market ★ 3.9

Food hallVieux-LilleMon-Sat 11:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-17:00

Kitchen Market fills a floor of the Tanneurs centre in Lille with sixteen stalls, Greek souvlaki, ramen, Neapolitan pizza and northern frites side by side.

Try: Sixteen stalls, from souvlaki to ramen

Tip: Individual stalls shut an hour before the hall does, so order by 22:00.

Breweries in Vieux-Lille

Brasserie Célestin ★ 4.3

BreweryFamily microbrewery, largely organic€€Vieux-LilleBrewery visits Friday and Saturday at 11:00, 12:00 and 14:00 to 18:00 on the hourBrewery visits Friday and Saturday at 11:00, 12:00 and 14:00 to 18:00 on the hour

Brasserie Célestin brews on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau in Vieux-Lille and runs guided visits with tastings, with a beer shop on Rue Esquermoise.

Tip: The 14:00 Saturday visit runs in English. Book it rather than turning up.

Bierbuik ★ 4.3

BreweryBrewpub using Mont des Cats hopsChef Florent Ladeyn€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00Mon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00

Bierbuik on Rue Royale in Lille brews on the ground floor under Florent Ladeyn's estaminet, rotating short-run beers made with Mont des Cats hops.

Tip: The beers change constantly because they are brewed in small batches. Ask what is on before you sit.

La Luck ★ 4.1

BreweryBar brewing its own beer€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 18:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 18:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 10:00-23:00Mon-Wed 18:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 18:00-00:00; Sat 11:00-00:00; Sun 10:00-23:00

La Luck on Rue Princesse in Lille started as a bar and bistro and now brews its own beer on site, alongside cocktails and a natural wine list.

Tip: Weekend service starts in the morning, so the house beer can be a brunch drink here.

Markets in Vieux-Lille

Marché du Vieux-Lille ★ 4.4

Vieux-LilleWed, Fri and Sun 07:00-14:00

The Place du Concert market is the Vieux-Lille one, three mornings a week of organic and regional produce with Asian and North African stalls between them.

Tip: Sunday morning here is calmer than Wazemmes and a short walk from the estaminets on Rue de Gand.

Budget Eats in Vieux-Lille

Bernard et Léon ★ 4.1

BistroVieux-LilleMon-Fri 12:00-14:30; Sat 12:00-15:00; closed Sunday

Bernard et Léon on Rue de la Clef in Lille is a bowl canteen named for the founders' two grandfathers, open at lunch only and priced under 16 euros.

Try: Bowl formule

Tip: Lunch only. The bowls take their names from the two grandfathers who gave the place its name.

L'Estaminet du Welsh ★ 4.0

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00, except Wednesday and Thursday lunch

L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille runs a lunch menu at 12.90 euros and a plat du jour from 9.90, built around a dozen welsh variations.

Try: Welsh au maroilles

Tip: The plat du jour starts at 9.90 euros, which is the cheapest sit-down welsh in Vieux-Lille.

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00

Au Vieux de la Vieille on Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille runs its plat du jour at 9.90 or 14.90 euros, maroilles gratin included in the cheaper price.

Try: Gratin de la Vieille

Tip: The 9.90 euro plate is a full meal. The terrace on Place aux Oignons costs nothing extra.

L'Estaminet Lillois ★ 4.0

French regional€€Vieux-LilleWed 19:00-22:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday and Tuesday

L'Estaminet Lillois on Rue de la Barre in Lille prices its regional card from 13 euros, carbonade and potjevleesch with twenty local beers to drink alongside.

Try: Carbonade flamande

Tip: It opens five days only, closed Monday and Tuesday, so check the day before you plan around it.

Estaminet La Vieille France ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:30; closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch

Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille feeds 65 covers of carbonade, poulet au maroilles and potjevleesch at neighbourhood prices.

Try: Poulet au maroilles

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch, which catches out a lot of visitors.

Smokey Banh Mi ★ 4.3

VietnameseVieux-LilleMon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-21:30; Sun 19:00-21:00

Smokey Banh Mi on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille sells a pork banh mi at 11.50 euros, meat smoked on site and bread from a Vieux-Lille bakery.

Try: Banh mi au porc

Tip: At 11.50 euros this is the best value sandwich in Vieux-Lille.

Arancini Lovers ★ 4.1

ItalianVieux-LilleTue-Sat 11:00-19:00; closed Sunday and Monday

Arancini Lovers on Rue Saint-André in Lille fries Sicilian rice balls to order, a cheap and filling walk-up lunch in the middle of Vieux-Lille.

Try: Arancini

Tip: Two arancini and a coffee makes a lunch for well under 10 euros.

Costaud ★ 4.2

SandwichVieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-00:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-01:00; closed Sunday

Costaud on Place du Vieux Marché aux Chevaux in Lille builds sandwiches to order by day and turns to shared plates at night, across three floors.

Try: Sandwich Costaud

Tip: The garlic and cheese bread at 9.50 euros is the order to add if you are two.

Hidden Gems in Vieux-Lille

Estaminet Chez la Vieille ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat, lunch and dinner service; closed Sunday

Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.

Why locals love it: A cluttered maroilles house on the historic Rue de Gand, with a summer terrace looking straight at the Porte de Gand.

Tip: Reservations are essential in the evening. The room fills with regulars before the visitors arrive.

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00

Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.

Why locals love it: It sits on the tiny Place aux Oignons rather than the main circuit, which keeps the terrace calm on a busy Saturday.

Tip: Take the terrace on Place aux Oignons rather than a table inside. It is the quieter side.

L'Estaminet Lillois ★ 4.0

French regional€€Vieux-LilleWed 19:00-22:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday and Tuesday

L'Estaminet Lillois on Rue de la Barre in Lille pours around twenty regional beers and cooks carbonade, potjevleesch and chicken in maroilles.

Why locals love it: Closed Monday and Tuesday, with Wednesday dinner only, which keeps it a locals' room rather than a tourist stop.

Tip: Wednesday is dinner only and Sunday is lunch only. Check before you build an evening around it.

Estaminet La Vieille France ★ 4.1

French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:30; closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch

Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.

Why locals love it: Sixty-five covers doing the regional canon rather than a tourist carte, on the busiest estaminet street in the city.

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch, which catches out most people who just walk up.

Les Fishtons ★ 4.3

Seafood€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:30; Fri-Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday

Les Fishtons on Rue des Bouchers in Lille fries Boulonnais fish for a small room of fish and chips, plus a crispy fish burger with Flemish compote.

Why locals love it: A small room on Rue des Bouchers frying Boulonnais fish, which most visitors walk past on their way to the bigger terraces.

Tip: The fish burger uses cornflakes for the crust and Flemish apple compote instead of tartare.

Costaud ★ 4.2

SandwichVieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-00:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-01:00; closed Sunday

Costaud on Place du Vieux Marché aux Chevaux in Lille builds sandwiches to order by day and turns to shared plates at night, across three floors.

Why locals love it: Three floors of a 19th-century building on a small square off the main Vieux-Lille circuit, sandwiches by day and shared plates at night.

Tip: The square it sits on is one street off the tourist route, which is why it stays a local room.

Smokey Banh Mi ★ 4.3

VietnameseVieux-LilleMon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-21:00; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-21:30; Sun 19:00-21:00

Smokey Banh Mi on Avenue du Peuple Belge in Lille smokes its own meat and buys its bread from the Degruson bakery up the road in Vieux-Lille.

Why locals love it: Meat smoked on the premises and bread bought from the Degruson bakery up the road, which is why an 11.50 euro sandwich has a following.

Tip: Ask what has been in the smoker that day. The pork is the constant, the rest rotates.

Bernard et Léon ★ 4.1

BistroVieux-LilleMon-Fri 12:00-14:30; Sat 12:00-15:00; closed Sunday

Bernard et Léon on Rue de la Clef in Lille is a bowl canteen named for the founders' two grandfathers, open at lunch only and priced under 16 euros.

Why locals love it: A lunch-only canteen on Rue de la Clef whose bowls are named after the founders' own grandfathers, Bernard and Leon.

Tip: Lunch only, and it shuts at 14:30 on weekdays. Saturday runs half an hour later.

Brunch in Vieux-Lille

Paddo Café ★ 4.4

CaféAntipodean all-day breakfast€€€10-20Vieux-LilleDaily 08:00-17:00, kitchen closes 16:00Walk-in only

Paddo Café on Rue du Cirque in Lille brought Antipodean brunch north, ricotta pancakes and avocado toast alongside properly pulled specialty coffee.

Order: Ricotta pancakes, from the all-day breakfast card.

Tip: No reservations at all. The kitchen stops at 16:00 even though the room stays open.

Bacio Divino ★ 4.2

ItalianAll-you-can-eat Italian Sunday brunch€€€€32, €37 with a glass of wineVieux-LilleSun 11:00-15:00; Mon-Thu 19:00-21:30; Fri 19:15-22:30; Sat 19:00-22:30Booking essential

Bacio Divino on Rue Saint-André in Lille runs an all-you-can-eat Italian brunch every Sunday at 32 euros, in two sittings, with lasagne included.

Order: Traditional lasagne, from the hot side of the brunch.

Tip: Two seatings only, 11:00 and 13:00. Under-eights pay 15 euros.

Late-Night Eats in Vieux-Lille

Le Barbier qui Fume (Vieux-Lille) ★ 4.0

American BBQ€€Vieux-LilleMon-Fri 10:00-15:00 and 18:00-00:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-00:00Until 00:00

Le Barbier qui Fume on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille smokes its own meat and keeps the kitchen running until midnight, seven nights of the week.

Try: Beef onglet with shallots

Tip: The weekday lunch formula is 18.50 euros. Weekends run non-stop from 10:00.

La Broche ★ 4.1

Street foodVieux-LilleMon-Wed 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-22:00; Thu-Fri 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-00:30; Sat 11:30-00:00; Sun 11:30-14:30 and 18:30-22:30Until 00:30 Thursday and Friday

La Broche on Rue de Gand in Lille keeps its spit turning to 00:30 on Thursday and Friday, chicken marinated a day and confited for three hours.

Try: Kebab from the spit

Tip: Saturday runs non-stop from 11:30 to midnight, which is the longest service on Rue de Gand.

Bierbuik ★ 4.3

French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00Until 01:00 Thursday and Friday, 02:00 Saturday

Bierbuik's brewpub on Rue Royale in Lille runs to 01:00 on Thursday and Friday and to 02:00 on Saturday, and the kitchen stops at 23:30 then.

Try: Frites sauce maroilles

Tip: On those three nights the bar outlasts the kitchen, so order food before 23:30.

UNIK Kebab Vieux-Lille ★ 3.5

TurkishVieux-LilleDaily 11:00-00:00Until 00:00

The Vieux-Lille branch of UNIK Kebab on Rue Royale serves until midnight every night, a few doors from the busiest bar strip in the whole quarter.

Try: Kebab

Tip: It sits on the bar strip, which is why it stays open to midnight all week.

Costaud ★ 4.2

SandwichVieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-00:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-01:00; closed SundayUntil 01:00 Thursday to Saturday

Costaud on Place du Vieux Marché aux Chevaux in Lille runs to 01:00 from Thursday to Saturday, shared plates replacing the daytime sandwich card.

Try: Sandwich Costaud

Tip: Evenings turn to sharing plates. The sandwich card is a daytime thing.

Nightlife in Vieux-Lille

La Planque ★ 4.0

Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 18:00-00:00; Fri 18:00-01:00; Sat 18:00-02:00; closed Sunday

La Planque hides down a staircase off Rue des Trois Mollettes in Lille, a vintage cellar where cocktails and half-litre beers both cost 5 euros.

Tip: There is no sign worth looking for. Find the staircase, then keep going down.

Le Privilège ★ 4.1

Vieux-LilleSun-Wed 17:00-01:00; Thu-Sat 17:00-02:00

Le Privilège on Rue Royale is the best known LGBTQ+ bar and club in Vieux-Lille, with a dancefloor, drag shows and karaoke on Wednesday nights.

La Capsule ★ 4.4

Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 17:30-01:00; Thu-Fri 17:30-02:00; Sat 16:00-01:00; Sun 17:00-00:00

La Capsule on Rue des Trois Mollettes in Lille sells no mainstream lager, running 28 taps of lambics, sours and small-brewery beer instead.

Tip: The operator counts more than 300 different beers across a year, so the taps change constantly.

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Cuisines in Vieux-Lille