French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00
Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.
Signature: Gratin de la Vieille, Carbonade flamande
Order: Gratin de la Vieille, a pancake baked with endive, ham and maroilles.
Tip: The courtyard terrace fills first on a warm evening. Plat du jour runs at 9.90 or 14.90 euros.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat, lunch and dinner service; closed Sunday
Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.
Signature: Croquettes au maroilles, Poulet au maroilles
Order: Maroilles croquettes first, then the chicken in maroilles sauce.
Tip: Same family runs four estaminets in Lille. This is the one to pick if maroilles is the point of the meal.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00, except Wednesday and Thursday lunch
L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.
Signature: Welsh au maroilles, Potjevleesch
Order: The welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 11:30-16:00 and 17:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:30-16:30 and 17:00-23:00; closed Sunday and Monday
La Petite Table has run on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille since 2003, a small estaminet doing carbonade, welsh and potjevleesch properly by hand.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Potjevleesch
Order: Potjevleesch with the house frites.
Tip: Finish with the spéculoos mousse rather than the café gourmand.
French€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop
Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.
Signature: Welsh, Onglet frites
Order: Onglet frites, cooked over the grill.
Tip: The kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 11:45-22:30, bookings only
La Ch'tite Brigitte on Rue des Bouchers in Lille is Clément Richevaux's estaminet, built on the northern dishes his grandmother Brigitte cooked.
Signature: Croque-monsieur au maroilles, Rollmops
Order: The maroilles croque-monsieur, or the mixed northern platter.
Tip: The room takes bookings only, and it spreads across two shopfronts on Rue des Bouchers.
French regionalChef Florent Ladeyn€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00
Bierbuik is Florent Ladeyn's brewpub on Rue Royale in Lille, wood-fired Flemish street food downstairs and the Bloemeke estaminet menu upstairs.
Signature: Frites sauce maroilles, Flamiche
Order: Frites with maroilles sauce, from the ground-floor brewpub counter.
Tip: The upstairs Bloemeke runs a three-course estaminet menu at 30 euros. Beers use Mont des Cats hops.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed 18:30-22:30; Thu 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Fri 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-16:00 and 21:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30
Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.
Signature: Gratin de chicons, Welsh au maroilles
Order: Gratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.
Tip: Closed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-15:00 and 19:00-22:30; Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:00
Au Soyeux on Rue de Gand in Lille runs 44 covers of ch'ti cooking, potjevleesch and carbonade with maroilles croquettes and roasted bone marrow.
Signature: Potjevleesch, Croquettes au maroilles
Order: Potjevleesch, the jellied terrine of four white meats.
Tip: Only 24 seats indoors plus a 20-seat terrace, so book for a weekend evening.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 19:00-22:30; Wed-Sat 12:00-14:30 and 19:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-14:30; closed Monday
Chez Ronny on Rue de Gand in Lille is a 1970s-dressed estaminet named for the northern artist Ronny Coutteure, cooking northern French and Belgian plates.
Signature: Welsh, Boulets à la liégeoise
Order: Boulets à la liégeoise, the Belgian meatballs in sirop de Liège.
Tip: Sunday is lunch only, and it runs on bookings. It is the newest estaminet on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleWed 19:00-22:00; Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-14:00; closed Monday and Tuesday
L'Estaminet Lillois on Rue de la Barre in Lille pours around twenty regional beers and cooks carbonade, potjevleesch and chicken in maroilles.
Signature: Poulet maroilles, Welsh pain d'épices
Order: The welsh made with pain d'épices instead of plain bread.
Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Wednesday is dinner only and Sunday is lunch only.
French€€Vieux-LilleMon 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:00; Tue 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sun 11:30-15:00 and 18:30-21:30
L'Arrière Pays on Rue Basse in Lille builds open-faced sourdough tartines and regional plates, with a lunch formula that still lands under 14 euros.
Signature: Tartine en boîte, Regional cheese boards
Order: The tartine en boîte, cured ham under melted camembert with walnuts and raisins.
Tip: Two tartines run 10.90 euros and three run 12.90, which is about the cheapest sit-down lunch on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.
Italian€€Vieux-LilleTue-Fri 11:45-14:00; Sat 11:45-15:00; closed Sunday and Monday
La Piazzetta opened on Rue de la Barre in Lille as a fresh-pasta counter and Italian grocery, run by a chef who came from Big Mamma's La Bellezza.
Signature: Fresh lasagne, Ravioli
Order: Whatever ravioli is rolled that morning.
Tip: Lunch only, five days a week. There are very few seats, so come early or take the pasta away.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:30; closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch
Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Poulet au maroilles
Order: Carbonade flamande, cooked long in brown beer.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch. Sixty-five covers fill up, so a weekend evening needs booking.