What to order at L'Arrière Pays

Must order
The tartine en boîte, cured ham under melted camembert with walnuts and raisins.
Signature dishes
Tartine en boîte, Regional cheese boards
Editor tip
Two tartines run 10.90 euros and three run 12.90, which is about the cheapest sit-down lunch on this stretch of Vieux-Lille.
CuisineFrench
Price€€
NeighborhoodVieux Lille
HoursMon 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:00; Tue 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sun 11:30-15:00 and 18:30-21:30
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Book food experiences in Lille

Sunday Food Tour, Discovering Lille

Guided tour · 3 hours

Sunday Food Tour, Discovering Lille

A gourmet tour of 6 spots to discover Lille! Enjoy small portions from Vieux Lille's best savory and sweet spots. Fun facts and good vibes with our fantastic guides!

from€65 Check dates
Lille Beer Tour★ 5.0 (2)

Guided tour · 2 hours

Lille Beer Tour

A guided zythological walk that will take you from specialized bars and wine merchants to micro-breweries to discover the know-how and the brewing revival that is shak...

from€35 Check dates

See all 65 bookable experiences in Lille

Location

Address: 47 Rue Basse, 59000 Lille

Also in Vieux-Lille

La Piazzetta ★ 4.2

€€ ItalianVieux Lille

La Piazzetta opened on Rue de la Barre in Lille as a fresh-pasta counter and Italian grocery, run by a chef who came from Big Mamma's La Bellezza.

OrderWhatever ravioli is rolled that morning.

TipLunch only, five days a week. There are very few seats, so come early or take the pasta away.

Estaminet La Vieille France ★ 4.1

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.

OrderCarbonade flamande, cooked long in brown beer.

TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch. Sixty-five covers fill up, so a weekend evening needs booking.

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.

OrderGratin de la Vieille, a pancake baked with endive, ham and maroilles.

TipThe courtyard terrace fills first on a warm evening. Plat du jour runs at 9.90 or 14.90 euros.

Estaminet Chez la Vieille ★ 4.1

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.

OrderMaroilles croquettes first, then the chicken in maroilles sauce.

TipSame family runs four estaminets in Lille. This is the one to pick if maroilles is the point of the meal.

L'Estaminet du Welsh ★ 4.0

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.

OrderThe welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.

TipClosed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.

Full Vieux-Lille food guide →

More casual dining in Lille

Péniche Archimède ★ 3.8

€€ French bistroBois Blancs

Péniche Archimède is a moored barge on the Deûle by the Esplanade in Lille, serving generous bistro plates with the water on both sides of the room.

OrderWhatever the day's plate is, eaten on deck.

TipSunday opens at 10:45, earlier than anywhere else on this list.

La Piazzetta ★ 4.2

€€ ItalianVieux Lille

La Piazzetta opened on Rue de la Barre in Lille as a fresh-pasta counter and Italian grocery, run by a chef who came from Big Mamma's La Bellezza.

OrderWhatever ravioli is rolled that morning.

TipLunch only, five days a week. There are very few seats, so come early or take the pasta away.

Estaminet La Vieille France ★ 4.1

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.

OrderCarbonade flamande, cooked long in brown beer.

TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch. Sixty-five covers fill up, so a weekend evening needs booking.

Estaminet Au Vieux de la Vieille ★ 4.2

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.

OrderGratin de la Vieille, a pancake baked with endive, ham and maroilles.

TipThe courtyard terrace fills first on a warm evening. Plat du jour runs at 9.90 or 14.90 euros.

Estaminet Chez la Vieille ★ 4.1

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.

OrderMaroilles croquettes first, then the chicken in maroilles sauce.

TipSame family runs four estaminets in Lille. This is the one to pick if maroilles is the point of the meal.

L'Estaminet du Welsh ★ 4.0

€€ French regionalVieux Lille

L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.

OrderThe welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.

TipClosed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.

See every casual dining pick in Lille →

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