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French regionalVieux Lille
Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.
Why locals goA cluttered maroilles house on the historic Rue de Gand, with a summer terrace looking straight at the Porte de Gand.
TipReservations are essential in the evening. The room fills with regulars before the visitors arrive.
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French regionalVieux Lille
Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.
Why locals goIt sits on the tiny Place aux Oignons rather than the main circuit, which keeps the terrace calm on a busy Saturday.
TipTake the terrace on Place aux Oignons rather than a table inside. It is the quieter side.
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French regionalLille Centre
Le Barbu d'Anvers is a 130-seat Maître Restaurateur estaminet near Rihour in Lille, serving northern regional cooking across three panelled rooms.
Why locals goA 130-seat Maitre Restaurateur estaminet that long-time Lillois keep returning to, hidden a street back from Rihour.
TipService is fast even when the room is full, which is why the lunchtime regulars keep coming back.
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French regionalVieux Lille
L'Estaminet Lillois on Rue de la Barre in Lille pours around twenty regional beers and cooks carbonade, potjevleesch and chicken in maroilles.
Why locals goClosed Monday and Tuesday, with Wednesday dinner only, which keeps it a locals' room rather than a tourist stop.
TipWednesday is dinner only and Sunday is lunch only. Check before you build an evening around it.
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French regionalVieux Lille
Estaminet La Vieille France on Rue de Gand in Lille seats 65 and cooks the northern canon, carbonade, blanquette de veau, potjevleesch and pot au feu.
Why locals goSixty-five covers doing the regional canon rather than a tourist carte, on the busiest estaminet street in the city.
TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday at lunch, which catches out most people who just walk up.
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LevantineWazemmes
Kousbi on Rue Brûle-Maison in Lille runs a short Levantine card built on falafel, and five euros more turns any dish into a full sit-down meal.
Why locals goBuilt deliberately to feed the Wazemmes Sunday market crowd, with a short Levantine card and five euros to turn a dish into a meal.
TipSunday is the day to come, when the Wazemmes market crowd fills the room.