French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00, except Wednesday and Thursday lunch
L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.
Signature: Welsh au maroilles, Potjevleesch
Order: The welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 11:30-16:00 and 17:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:30-16:30 and 17:00-23:00; closed Sunday and Monday
La Petite Table has run on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille since 2003, a small estaminet doing carbonade, welsh and potjevleesch properly by hand.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Potjevleesch
Order: Potjevleesch with the house frites.
Tip: Finish with the spéculoos mousse rather than the café gourmand.
French€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop
Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.
Signature: Welsh, Onglet frites
Order: Onglet frites, cooked over the grill.
Tip: The kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.
French regional€€Lille-CentreMon-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; closed Sunday
Le Barbu d'Anvers is a 130-seat Maître Restaurateur estaminet near Rihour in Lille, serving northern regional cooking across three panelled rooms.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Welsh
Order: Carbonade flamande, the beef stew braised in brown beer.
Tip: A la carte runs 17 to 25 euros. The room closes for a summer break, so check before an August visit.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 11:45-22:30, bookings only
La Ch'tite Brigitte on Rue des Bouchers in Lille is Clément Richevaux's estaminet, built on the northern dishes his grandmother Brigitte cooked.
Signature: Croque-monsieur au maroilles, Rollmops
Order: The maroilles croque-monsieur, or the mixed northern platter.
Tip: The room takes bookings only, and it spreads across two shopfronts on Rue des Bouchers.
French regional€€Saint-MichelTue-Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop at weekends; closed Monday
Le Chat qui Fume on Rue Henri Kolb in Lille is a neighbourhood estaminet doing carbonade, andouillette in beer and a maroilles potato gratin.
Signature: Gratin de pommes de terre au maroilles, Welsh complet
Order: The full welsh, made in house rather than assembled.
Tip: Book by phone. The kitchen does not take reservations by email.