French€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop
Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.
Signature: Welsh, Onglet frites
Order: Onglet frites, cooked over the grill.
Tip: The kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.
French regional€€Lille-CentreMon-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; closed Sunday
Le Barbu d'Anvers is a 130-seat Maître Restaurateur estaminet near Rihour in Lille, serving northern regional cooking across three panelled rooms.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Welsh
Order: Carbonade flamande, the beef stew braised in brown beer.
Tip: A la carte runs 17 to 25 euros. The room closes for a summer break, so check before an August visit.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 11:45-22:30, bookings only
La Ch'tite Brigitte on Rue des Bouchers in Lille is Clément Richevaux's estaminet, built on the northern dishes his grandmother Brigitte cooked.
Signature: Croque-monsieur au maroilles, Rollmops
Order: The maroilles croque-monsieur, or the mixed northern platter.
Tip: The room takes bookings only, and it spreads across two shopfronts on Rue des Bouchers.
French regional€€Saint-MichelTue-Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop at weekends; closed Monday
Le Chat qui Fume on Rue Henri Kolb in Lille is a neighbourhood estaminet doing carbonade, andouillette in beer and a maroilles potato gratin.
Signature: Gratin de pommes de terre au maroilles, Welsh complet
Order: The full welsh, made in house rather than assembled.
Tip: Book by phone. The kitchen does not take reservations by email.
French regionalChef Florent Ladeyn€€Vieux-LilleMon-Wed 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-23:00; Thu-Fri 12:00-15:30 and 17:00-01:00; Sat 12:00-02:00; Sun 12:00-23:00
Bierbuik is Florent Ladeyn's brewpub on Rue Royale in Lille, wood-fired Flemish street food downstairs and the Bloemeke estaminet menu upstairs.
Signature: Frites sauce maroilles, Flamiche
Order: Frites with maroilles sauce, from the ground-floor brewpub counter.
Tip: The upstairs Bloemeke runs a three-course estaminet menu at 30 euros. Beers use Mont des Cats hops.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Wed 18:30-22:30; Thu 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-22:30; Fri 12:00-14:00 and 18:30-23:00; Sat 12:00-16:00 and 21:00-23:30; Sun 12:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30
Chez Raoul on Rue de Gand in Lille is named for the singer Raoul de Godewarsvelde, an estaminet of chicken in maroilles, fricadelle and charcuterie boards.
Signature: Gratin de chicons, Welsh au maroilles
Order: Gratin de chicons, endives baked in ham and béchamel.
Tip: Closed Monday and Wednesday lunch. Saturday runs a long afternoon service then reopens late.