Modern FrenchChef Steven Ramon€€€Lille-CentreTue-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 19:30-22:45; closed Sunday and MondayBook 2 weeks ahead
Rouge Barre is Steven Ramon's room on Rue de la Halle in Lille, a red and black space over two floors running creative regional cooking off a market card.
Order: Whatever the market card lists as the fish of the day.
Tip: Book ahead, because the two floors fill fast. Lunch service is easier to get into than dinner.
Modern French€€€Vauban-EsquermesTue-Sat 12:00-13:30 and 19:15-21:30; closed Sunday and MondayBook 1 week ahead
Solange on Rue d'Isly in Lille writes a new menu every week, seasonal French cooking crossed with Asian seasoning in a small, quietly elegant room.
Order: The weekly menu, which is rewritten every seven days.
Tip: The card changes weekly, so ask what came in rather than arriving with a dish in mind.
Modern French€€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat 19:00-22:00; closed SundayBook 2 weeks ahead
Chez Georges is a dinner-only auberge on Rue Saint-André in Lille, terracotta-toned and cooking northern terroir with tight technique and maceration wines.
Order: The tasting menu, which is where this kitchen argues its case.
Tip: Dinner only, six nights a week. Glasses start around 8 euros and lean heavily on macerated whites.
Modern French€€€Lille-CentreMon-Sat, lunch and dinner serviceBook 1 week ahead
Club Marot on Rue de Pas in Lille is a bistronomic room run by two cousins, everything made in house including the bread, with a long regional wine list.
Order: The bread, baked in house, and whatever it arrives alongside.
Tip: The wine list has been ranked among France's hundred best by Terre de Vins, so trust the pairing suggestion.
Modern FrenchChef Jean Christophe Gille€€€Lille-CentreMon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; Sat 19:00-22:00; closed SundayBook 1 week ahead
Le Jane on Boulevard Carnot in Lille is a hotel dining room dressed as a jungle, with chef Jean Christophe Gille cooking a widely travelled seasonal card.
Order: The set lunch, the cheapest way to read this kitchen.
Tip: Fifty covers and a hotel address mean a table is easier to get here than in the small Vieux-Lille rooms. Dinner stops at 22:00.
FrenchChef Laurence Cou退€€50 to €70Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 19:00-21:30; Fri 12:00-13:00 and 19:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 12:00-13:30 and 19:00-21:30Book 1 week ahead
Le Lion Bossu occupies a 1681 brick house off Place du Lion d'Or in Lille, where Laurence Coué cooks classical French menus under exposed beams.
Order: The Grand Gousier menu, the 70 euro long form of the kitchen.
Tip: The 50 euro menu is the sensible order. The Grand Gousier at 70 euros is the longer version of the same classical kitchen.