French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00
Au Vieux de la Vieille spills onto the cobbles of Rue des Vieux Murs in Lille, the terrace estaminet locals send visitors to for carbonade and welsh.
Signature: Gratin de la Vieille, Carbonade flamande
Order: Gratin de la Vieille, a pancake baked with endive, ham and maroilles.
Tip: The courtyard terrace fills first on a warm evening. Plat du jour runs at 9.90 or 14.90 euros.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleMon-Sat, lunch and dinner service; closed Sunday
Chez la Vieille on Rue de Gand in Lille is the maroilles house of the strip, a cluttered estaminet where the cheese turns up in almost every course.
Signature: Croquettes au maroilles, Poulet au maroilles
Order: Maroilles croquettes first, then the chicken in maroilles sauce.
Tip: Same family runs four estaminets in Lille. This is the one to pick if maroilles is the point of the meal.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleDaily 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00, except Wednesday and Thursday lunch
L'Estaminet du Welsh on Rue de Gand in Lille builds its whole card around welsh, a dozen versions of cheddar melted in beer over bread and frites.
Signature: Welsh au maroilles, Potjevleesch
Order: The welsh au maroilles, if you want the northern version rather than the cheddar one.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Thursday at lunch. A vegetarian welsh is on the card.
French regional€€Vieux-LilleTue-Thu 11:30-16:00 and 17:00-22:30; Fri-Sat 11:30-16:30 and 17:00-23:00; closed Sunday and Monday
La Petite Table has run on Rue de la Monnaie in Lille since 2003, a small estaminet doing carbonade, welsh and potjevleesch properly by hand.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Potjevleesch
Order: Potjevleesch with the house frites.
Tip: Finish with the spéculoos mousse rather than the café gourmand.
French€€Vieux-LilleMon-Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30; Sun 12:00-22:00, non-stop
Les Compagnons de la Grappe hides down a corridor off Rue Lepelletier in Lille, a courtyard terrace serving welsh, carbonade and grilled meat non-stop.
Signature: Welsh, Onglet frites
Order: Onglet frites, cooked over the grill.
Tip: The kitchen runs straight through the afternoon, which makes this the answer to a 16:00 arrival.
French regional€€Lille-CentreMon-Sat 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-22:00; closed Sunday
Le Barbu d'Anvers is a 130-seat Maître Restaurateur estaminet near Rihour in Lille, serving northern regional cooking across three panelled rooms.
Signature: Carbonade flamande, Welsh
Order: Carbonade flamande, the beef stew braised in brown beer.
Tip: A la carte runs 17 to 25 euros. The room closes for a summer break, so check before an August visit.