Italian
Photo: David Adam Kess · CC BY-SA 4.0

70 italian places in Florence we have eaten in, sorted by editor score. All cuisines in Florence | Italian across every city.

This is the heart of how Florence eats: the trattoria and the osteria, short menus built around bistecca alla fiorentina, ribollita and offal. Cibreo Trattoria in Sant'Ambrogio, Trattoria Sostanza in Santa Maria Novella and Trattoria Mario by the San Lorenzo market are the old-guard rooms, while the Oltrarno holds Il Santo Bevitore and I Quattro Leoni. The modern Florentine kitchen runs through Ora d'Aria and Locale Firenze in the centro storico and Essenziale over in San Frediano.

Cibreo Trattoria ★ 4.6

€€Florentine, TuscanSant Ambrogio

Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. Located in Sant Ambrogio.

OrderPolpettine di pollo, pappa al pomodoro and the trippa alla fiorentina.

TipNo reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.

Trattoria Sostanza ★ 4.5

€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella

Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.

TipCash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.

Trattoria Mario ★ 4.5

€€Florentine TrattoriaSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Kitchen leans florentine trattoria.

OrderRibollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.

TipQueue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.

Il Santo Bevitore ★ 4.5

€€€Modern TuscanOltrarno

Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing.

OrderThe crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.

TipBook a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.

Ora d'Aria ★ 4.5

€€€€Modern Tuscan Fine DiningCentro Storico

Marco Stabile's Ora d'Aria in Florence's Centro Storico holds a Michelin star for a modern Tuscan kitchen that reads pappa al pomodoro and bistecca.

OrderThe signature pappa al pomodoro risotto and the seasonal pigeon course.

TipLunch tasting €60 vs €120 dinner. Ask for the chef's-counter seats when you book.

Locale Firenze ★ 4.4

€€€€Modern ItalianCentro Storico

Locale Firenze in Florence's Centro Storico sits inside the 13th-century Palazzo delle Seggiole, the Concettini family's Michelin-starred kitchen with a bar.

OrderThe tortelli di rabarbaro signature pasta and the pigeon course from the tasting carte.

TipThe cocktail room downstairs is the cheaper entry point; pre-dinner aperitivo from 18:30.

I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3

€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno

I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.

OrderFiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.

TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.

Essenziale ★ 4.4

€€€Modern TuscanSan Frediano

Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano runs the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse, with a lampredotto course.

OrderThe five-course tasting and the lampredotto reinterpreted dish if it is on the carte.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday; tasting menus only at dinner. Book three weeks ahead.

La Menagere ★ 4.2

€€€ItalianSan Lorenzo

La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo is the all-day concept in a 19th-century housewares shop, with breakfast, brunch, lunch, aperitivo and dinner under one.

OrderThe weekend brunch, tagliatelle al tartufo and the aperitivo plate at 18:30.

TipOpen daily 07:00 to midnight. The flower-shop entrance is a draw; book the back dining room for dinner.

Osteria di Giovanni ★ 4.3

€€€Florentine, TuscanSanta Maria Novella

Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. Kitchen leans florentine, tuscan.

OrderBistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.

TipBook a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Open daily for dinner only.

Buca Lapi ★ 4.4

€€€ItalianSanta Maria Novella

Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) cooked on the wood grill, and the tartufo pasta in season.

TipCash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.

Ristorante Cibreo ★ 4.6

€€€€ItalianSant Ambrogio

Ristorante Cibreo in Florence is the formal flagship of Fabio Picchi's empire, with the yellow-pepper passato, cresta di gallo cockscomb and the eponymous.

OrderPassato di peperoni gialli, the cibreo offal stew and any cockscomb course.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday; lunch is one fixed tasting. The trattoria around the corner is the easier-priced entry.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

€€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno

Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.

OrderCrepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.

TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Regina Bistecca ★ 4.2

€€€Florentine, Bistecca-ledCentro Storico

Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired.

OrderThe 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.

TipBook a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday; lunch is the calmer service.

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura ★ 4.6

€€€€Modern Italian, Fine DiningCentro Storico

Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Florence's Piazza della Signoria is Karime Lopez's Michelin-starred kitchen above the Gucci Garden, with Bottura's Emilia.

OrderThe Emilia Burger (mortadella-and-zampone), the tortellini al Parmigiano and the seasonal tasting menu.

TipBook six weeks ahead. The €150 lunch tasting is the entry; the €220 dinner the full set.

Saporium ★ 4.5

€€€€Modern Tuscan Fine DiningSanta Maria Novella

Saporium in Florence is Ariel Hagen's Michelin-starred farm-to-table room sourced from the Borgo Santo Pietro estate, a tasting carte built off the kitchen.

OrderThe 8-course tasting menu; the wine pairing tilts toward the Borgo Santo Pietro estate wines.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. The estate-wine pairing adds €110; book the chef's counter for kitchen view.

Santa Elisabetta ★ 4.7

€€€€Modern Italian Fine DiningCentro Storico

Santa Elisabetta in Florence's Hotel Brunelleschi holds two Michelin stars under Rocco De Santis, a 24-seat dining room inside a 6th-century Byzantine tower.

OrderThe pigeon and yuzu signature and the Mediterranean risotto from the tasting carte.

TipBook six weeks ahead. The 10-course tasting is €260; €170 for the shorter 7-course set.

io Osteria Personale ★ 4.4

€€€Modern TuscanSan Frediano

io Osteria Personale in Florence's San Frediano is Nicolo Baretti's modern-Tuscan tasting room, with the choose-your-own four-or-five course format.

OrderThe choose-your-own four-course tasting and any tortelli or pigeon course on the carte.

TipClosed Sunday and Monday; dinner only. Build the tasting around the maitre's wine suggestions.

Trattoria da Burde ★ 4.4

€€Florentine TrattoriaCampo Di Marte

Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.

OrderThe Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.

TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.

Trattoria Za Za ★ 4.0

€€Florentine TrattoriaSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full.

OrderThe full Tuscan tasting tray, then bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.

TipOpen daily 11:00-23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.

Coquinarius ★ 4.2

€€Florentine, Wine-ledCentro Storico

Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.

OrderPici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.

TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.

Borgo San Jacopo ★ 4.5

€€€€Modern Tuscan Fine DiningOltrarno

Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern.

OrderThe 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.

TipClosed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.

BarBar ★ 4.2

€€€Modern TuscanCampo Di Marte

BarBar occupies a former gravel works off Via Gioberti, three rooms and a palm-shaded garden, with a seasonal Tuscan menu, biodynamic wines and cocktails.

OrderAgnolotti al piccione (€20), then the stuffed guinea fowl or venison fillet; a cocktail in the garden after.

TipOpened in 2021; the garden fills first on warm evenings, so book by email. Tuesday is dinner only, Monday closed; tapas and a light lunch run beside the carte.

Trattoria Marione ★ 4.3

€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella

Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina.

OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.

TipCash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.

Acqua al 2 ★ 4.2

€€ItalianSanta Croce

Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce.

OrderThe assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.

TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.

Trattoria Za Za ★ 4.0

€€Florentine TrattoriaSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the long Tuscan carte from a square-side terrace on Piazza del Mercato Centrale, with the full Florentine.

OrderThe Tuscan tasting tray, bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.

TipOpen daily 11:00-23:00. The terrace fills fastest in summer; book three days ahead.

Cantinetta Antinori ★ 4.3

€€€ItalianSanta Maria Novella

Cantinetta Antinori in Florence's Palazzo Antinori is the wine-bar-and-trattoria for the 26-generation Antinori wine family, with a 150-bottle list focused.

OrderCrostini misti, pici al ragu, the tagliata and a glass of Tignanello.

TipClosed Saturday and Sunday. Book the front room for the Antinori cellar tasting flight.

Coquinarius ★ 4.2

€€Florentine, Wine-ledCentro Storico

Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.

OrderPici cacio e pepe, the salumi tagliere and a Chianti Classico flight from the by-the-glass list.

TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight adds €25.

I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3

€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno

I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.

OrderThe fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.

TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

€€€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno

Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.

OrderCrepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.

TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Trattoria da Burde ★ 4.4

€€Florentine TrattoriaCampo Di Marte

Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.

OrderThe Friday-night bistecca tasting; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.

TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.

Gilda Bistrot ★ 4.3

€€ItalianSanta Croce

Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates.

OrderPici al ragu, the crostini di fegatini and a glass of natural Chianti.

TipClosed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.

Cucina Torcicoda ★ 4.2

€€€Modern TuscanSanta Croce

Cucina Torcicoda in Florence's Santa Croce district is a three-room concept (osteria, pizzeria and ristorante) under one roof, with the bistecca cellar.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina from the dedicated ristorante room, or the pizza next door.

TipThree connected rooms with different menus; the ristorante books out 2 weeks ahead.

Buca Lapi ★ 4.4

€€€Florentine, Bistecca-ledSanta Maria Novella

Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.

TipCash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.

Osteria del Porcellino ★ 4.2

€€Florentine TrattoriaCentro Storico

Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan.

OrderTagliata di Chianina, pappardelle al cinghiale, the ribollita in winter.

TipOpen daily 12:00-23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.

Zeb ★ 4.5

€€ItalianSan Niccolo

Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother.

OrderTortelli ricotta e spinaci to order, the daily pasta and any tagliata.

TipClosed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.

Trattoria Sostanza ★ 4.5

€€Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella

Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.

OrderThe bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.

TipCash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.

Regina Bistecca ★ 4.2

€€€Florentine, Bistecca-ledCentro Storico

Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired.

OrderThe 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.

TipBook a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday.

Osteria di Giovanni ★ 4.3

€€€Florentine, TuscanSanta Maria Novella

Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. Kitchen leans florentine, tuscan.

OrderBistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.

TipBook a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Dinner only.

Trattoria da Rocco ★ 4.1

€ItalianSant Ambrogio

Trattoria da Rocco in Florence sits inside the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio under the loggia, a market-canteen format with a chalkboard daily carte and lunch.

OrderThe daily pasta, ribollita and a quartino of house red from the bar.

TipLunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only; come at 12:30 to beat the stall-keepers' second rush.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

€Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno

Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars.

OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.

TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

Fierucola di Santo Spirito ★ 4.4

€ItalianOltrarno

Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.

OrderPecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.

TipThird Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.

Enoteca Pinchiorri ★ 4.8

€€€€Italian

Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence's Santa Croce district has held three Michelin stars since 2004 under Annie Feolde, with a 120,000-bottle cellar and a tasting.

Santa Elisabetta ★ 4.7

€€€€Italian

Santa Elisabetta in Florence's Hotel Brunelleschi holds two Michelin stars under Rocco De Santis, a 24-seat dining room inside a 6th-century Byzantine tower.

Borgo San Jacopo ★ 4.5

€€€€Italian

Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno holds one Michelin star inside Hotel Lungarno, with Claudio Mengoni cooking modern Tuscan from a 20-seat dining room.

Ora d'Aria ★ 4.4

€€€€Italian

Marco Stabile's Ora d'Aria in Florence's Centro Storico holds one Michelin star for a modern Tuscan kitchen that reads pappa al pomodoro and bistecca.

La Leggenda dei Frati ★ 4.3

€€€€Italian

La Leggenda dei Frati in Florence's Costa San Giorgio sits inside the Villa Bardini garden, with Filippo Saporito's Michelin-starred kitchen and a terrace.

io Osteria Personale ★ 4.1

€€€€Italian

io Osteria Personale in Florence's San Frediano holds one Michelin star under Nicolo Baretti, with the choose-your-own four-or-five course format.

Locale Firenze ★ 4.1

€€€€Italian

Locale Firenze in Florence's Centro Storico sits inside the 13th-century Palazzo delle Seggiole, the Concettini family's one-Michelin-star kitchen with a bar.

Essenziale ★ 4.0

€€€€Italian

Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano holds a Bib Gourmand for the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse.

Acqua al 2 ★ 4.2

€€ItalianSanta Croce

Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district runs the kitchen until 00:30 every night, with the signature five-pasta assaggio di primi and the bistecca al.

OrderAssaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, a final chocolate dessert sampler.

TipBook a 22:00 seating a fortnight ahead. Open until 00:30 nightly; dinner only.

Mercato Centrale food hall ★ 4.3

€€ItalianSan Lorenzo

Mercato Centrale food hall's first floor stays open until midnight daily, with 18 artisan counters running lampredotto, fresh pasta, pizza and an espresso.

OrderLampredotto from Lorenzo Nigro, the daily fresh pasta from il Tartufo, an espresso.

TipCounter format; €15 lunch with a glass of wine. Open daily 09:00 to midnight.

La Menagere ★ 4.2

€€ItalianSan Lorenzo

La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the kitchen to midnight every day, with a full carte alongside the live-jazz set at 21:30 Wed-Sun.

OrderAperitivo plate at 22:00, the late-night risotto, a Negroni and the jazz set.

TipLive jazz Wed-Sun from 21:30; book the bar a week ahead. Open daily until midnight.

Trattoria Za Za ★ 4.0

€€ItalianSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo square runs the dining room until 23:00, with the full Florentine carte and a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace.

OrderTuscan tasting tray, bistecca alla fiorentina, a tagliatelle al cinghiale.

TipOpen daily 11:00-23:00; the terrace fills fastest in summer.

Atrium Bar at Four Seasons ★ 4.6

€€ItalianSanta Maria Novella

Atrium Bar at Florence's Four Seasons keeps the cocktail-and-cloister programme running until midnight, with Edoardo Sandri's Negroni list and small plates.

OrderNegroni, the Italian aperitivo flight, an aperitivo plate of salumi and crostini.

TipOpen daily 11:00 to midnight. The 15th-century cloister courtyard seats 60 in summer.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

€€ItalianOltrarno

Trattoria Cammillo is locals send friends here for the crepes alla fiorentina and the masiero family's 1945 white-tablecloth grammar on borgo san jacopo.

TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Trattoria da Burde ★ 4.4

€€ItalianCampo Di Marte

Trattoria da Burde in Florence: italian room. Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca.

TipLunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday.

Zeb ★ 4.5

€€ItalianSan Niccolo

Zeb in Florence: A 16-seat mother-and-son counter in San Niccolo where Alberto Navari plates Giuseppina's tortelli to order; no booking, just queue.

TipClosed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.

Trattoria da Rocco ★ 4.1

€€ItalianSant Ambrogio

Trattoria da Rocco in Florence: Market-canteen lunch inside Sant'Ambrogio for €12, the same plate the stall-keepers eat from a chalkboard daily.

TipLunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only. The chalkboard menu changes daily.

I Due Fratellini ★ 4.5

€€ItalianCentro Storico

I Due Fratellini in Florence: A hole-in-the-wall mini-panino counter from 1875 with 28 varieties at €4 and a shelf outside to hold your wine glass.

TipCash only; standing on the kerb. Closed Sunday. €4 panini, €4 wine.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

€€ItalianOltrarno

Trattoria La Casalinga off Piazza Santo Spirito is the 1963 family cucina povera room with ribollita and trippa for 10 euros, no concession to the centre.

TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

All'Antico Vinaio ★ 4.4

€ItalianCentro Storico

All'Antico Vinaio in Florence's Via dei Neri is the schiacciata-counter chain with four shops on the same street, with the 30cm stuffed flatbread for €8.

OrderLa Favolosa schiacciata (porchetta, pecorino, artichoke cream).

TipFour shops on Via dei Neri; the 65r is the original. Eat on the steps of Santa Croce.

Da Nerbone ★ 4.6

€ItalianSan Lorenzo

Da Nerbone in Florence's Mercato Centrale ground floor pours the lampredotto panino for €5.50 since 1872, bread dipped in the cooking broth.

OrderPanino al lampredotto bagnato with salsa verde and salsa piccante.

TipCash only; closed Sunday. Queue from 11:30. The plate of bollito-and-broth runs €8.

I Due Fratellini ★ 4.5

€ItalianCentro Storico

I Due Fratellini in Florence's Via dei Cimatori has run the mini-panino counter since 1875, a hole-in-the-wall format with 28 panini varieties at €4.

OrderWild-boar salami panino, the soppressata-and-pecorino, a glass of house Chianti.

TipCash only; standing on the kerb. Closed Sunday. Shelves outside hold your wine glass.

Trattoria Mario ★ 4.5

€ItalianSan Lorenzo

Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo has run the working-class lunch counter since 1953 next to Mercato Centrale, with a daily pasta carte at €8 a primo.

OrderRibollita, pappardelle al cinghiale, a glass of house Chianti for €3.

TipQueue from 12:00; lunch-only Mon-Sat. Cash only. Closed all of August.

Trattoria da Rocco ★ 4.1

€ItalianSant Ambrogio

Trattoria da Rocco in Florence's Mercato Sant'Ambrogio loggia runs the market-canteen lunch format, with a chalkboard daily two-course menu at €12.

OrderThe daily pasta, ribollita in winter, a quartino of house red.

TipLunch only Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only. Arrive at 12:30 to beat the second rush.

Trippaio del Porcellino ★ 4.4

€ItalianCentro Storico

Trippaio del Porcellino in Florence is the lampredotto cart at the Mercato Nuovo loggia next to the Porcellino bronze boar, with panini for €5.50.

OrderLampredotto panino bagnato, trippa-and-fagioli plate, a glass of house red.

TipOpen daily 09:00-19:00. Cash only; standing room around the cart.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

€ItalianOltrarno

Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina.

OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla fiorentina.

TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

Mercato Centrale food hall ★ 4.3

€ItalianSan Lorenzo

Mercato Centrale Firenze's first-floor food hall houses 18 artisan counters under one roof, from pasta to pizza, lampredotto and bistecca, with most plates.

OrderLampredotto from Lorenzo Nigro's counter, the daily fresh pasta from il Tartufo, an espresso.

TipOpen daily until midnight. Counter format; €15 lunch with a glass of wine.

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