The southern-Oltrarno bohemian quarter under Piazzale Michelangelo, with cocktail rooms like Il Rifrullo and the gelato bench outside Gelateria della Passera.
Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci, Tagliata, Pici al ragu
Order: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci to order, the daily pasta and any tagliata.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
Flò Lounge Bar opens for the warm months on a terraced hillside above Piazzale Michelangelo, with all-white loungers, teak decks, an open-air bar and a programme of DJ sets that pulls a dressy local and tourist crowd through the late summer evenings.
Tip: Open from May through late September only. Drinks run on a token system at around ten euros and there is a smart dress code; a taxi is the easiest way up and back.