Across-the-Arno artisan quarter with the Santo Spirito market, the wine-bar grammar of Le Volpi e l'Uva and the natural-wine carte at Il Santo Bevitore.
Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing.
Signature: Crudo di manzo, Pici al ragu di anatra, Coniglio in porchetta
Order: The crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di manzo
Order: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern.
Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Panna cotta
Order: The fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars.
Signature: Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano quarter is the Sprone-corner sister room of Sanapo's flagship, with the same single-origin filter.
Signature drink: Single-origin filter coffee
Order: Filter coffee of the day, the avocado-on-sourdough breakfast, a Negroni at aperitivo.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. The Oltrarno room runs the cocktail program later than Via dei Neri.
Le Volpi e l'Uva in Florence's Oltrarno is the 1999 wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio, with a hand-built list of Tuscan small growers, 30 wines.
Signature pour: Sangiovese di Toscana from a small grower
Wine focus: Tuscan natural growers, small producers
Food: Tagliere of salumi and cheese
Order: Crostino del giorno, salumi flight, a glass of Sangiovese from a single-vineyard producer.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.
Pitti Gola e Cantina in Florence's Oltrarno sits across from Palazzo Pitti, with a 600-bottle natural-and-biodynamic list, charcuterie boards.
Signature pour: Brunello di Montalcino from a small estate
Wine focus: Italian natural and biodynamic growers
Food: Charcuterie and small plates
Order: Salumi flight, the daily seasonal plate, a Brunello pour from a single-vineyard estate.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The 20-seat dining room books out two weeks ahead.
Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore next door, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, small plates from the same.
Signature pour: Sangiovese di Romagna, low-intervention
Wine focus: Natural Tuscan wines, small producers
Food: Snacks and small plates from Il Santo Bevitore
Order: The daily small plates from Il Santo Bevitore, salumi, a natural-wine pour by the glass.
Tip: Open daily until 23:00; first-come standing room. The bigger dining room next door takes bookings.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs a hybrid coffee-and-cocktail bar programme, with espresso-martini riffs by Francesco Sanapo's team.
Signature drink: Coffee-based cocktails
Food: Small plates, brunch
Order: An espresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a Negroni Bianco.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. The cocktail programme runs from 19:00; aperitivo crowd takes the standing area.
Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the standing wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, salumi flights and a 12-seat.
Signature drink: Natural wine by the glass
Food: Salumi, crostini, small plates
Order: Natural-wine pour by the glass, salumi tagliere, the small daily plate from next door.
Tip: Open daily; first-come standing room only. The bigger restaurant next door takes bookings.
Archea Brewery in Florence's Oltrarno is an independent craft pub on Via dei Serragli, leaning Italian and Tuscan on a rotating tap list that runs about.
Order: Black Tower IPA, a Tuscan craft IPA from the rotating taps, a fresh take-home can sealed at the bar.
Tip: Open daily from 18:00. The barman canners fresh take-home cans on request.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the monthly small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday, with 70 stalls of Tuscan.
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Mercato di Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the daily morning produce market on the piazza, Monday to Saturday, with 25 contadini and forno.
Order: Tuscan produce from the contadini, the daily bread from the forno stall, Tuscan cheese on Wednesday.
Tip: Mon-Sat 08:00-13:00. The piazza-side cafes open at 07:30 if you want a cornetto first.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
In Tavola in Florence's Oltrarno is a dedicated cooking-school space with daily Tuscan classes, the four-hour pasta workshop and a market-walk-and-cook combo.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina.
Try: Florentine cucina povera lunch
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs its coffee-and-cocktail programme until midnight nightly, with espresso-martini riffs.
Try: Coffee cocktails, small plates
Order: Espresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a late-night Negroni Bianco.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. Cocktail programme runs from 19:00.
Picteau anchors the Hotel Lungarno lobby on Borgo San Jacopo with a salotto-style room hung with Picasso and Cocteau pieces and a terrace pointed straight at Ponte Vecchio, where bartenders Marco Colonnelli and Vincenzo Civita run a cocktail programme paired with the Borgo San Jacopo kitchen.
Tip: The riverside terrace is the seat in summer; the indoor lounge with the Picasso fireplace works year-round. Cocktails run around 22 euros.
Rasputin tucks Florence's first true speakeasy behind an unmarked Borgo Tegolaio door in the Oltrarno, with a 45-seat candle-lit room dressed in red velvet, an extensive whisky back bar and a cocktail list that runs Prohibition classics alongside unexpected ingredient pairings.
Tip: Ring the bell, then wait for the hatch to slide open. Reservation is required, no standing inside, and photography is banned. The location is deliberately misplaced on Google.
Volume occupies an 1887 artisanal-workshop building on Piazza Santo Spirito with mismatched flea-market furniture, sculpted wood-carving relics from its hat-block past and a long aperitivo cadence that turns into live music and cocktails as the piazza fills late.
Tip: Aperitivo daily from 18:30 with the buffet included around 10 euros. The piazza tables outside are the seats in summer; live music slots are several nights a week.