Across-the-Arno artisan quarter with the Santo Spirito market, the wine-bar grammar of Le Volpi e l'Uva and the natural-wine carte at Il Santo Bevitore.
Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing.
OrderThe crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.
TipBook a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
OrderFiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.
OrderCrepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern.
OrderThe 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
TipClosed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
OrderThe fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
TipBook a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.
OrderCrepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
TipClosed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
OrderPecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
TipThird Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano quarter is the Sprone-corner sister room of Sanapo's flagship, with the same single-origin filter.
OrderFilter coffee of the day, the avocado-on-sourdough breakfast, a Negroni at aperitivo.
DrinkSingle-origin filter coffee
TipOpen daily 08:00 to midnight. The Oltrarno room runs the cocktail program later than Via dei Neri.
Le Volpi e l'Uva in Florence's Oltrarno is the 1999 wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio, with a hand-built list of Tuscan small growers, 30 wines.
OrderCrostino del giorno, salumi flight, a glass of Sangiovese from a single-vineyard producer.
PourSangiovese di Toscana from a small grower
WineTuscan natural growers, small producers
FoodTagliere of salumi and cheese
TipClosed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.
Pitti Gola e Cantina in Florence's Oltrarno sits across from Palazzo Pitti, with a 600-bottle natural-and-biodynamic list, charcuterie boards.
OrderSalumi flight, the daily seasonal plate, a Brunello pour from a single-vineyard estate.
PourBrunello di Montalcino from a small estate
WineItalian natural and biodynamic growers
FoodCharcuterie and small plates
TipClosed Sunday. The 20-seat dining room books out two weeks ahead.
Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore next door, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, small plates from the same.
OrderThe daily small plates from Il Santo Bevitore, salumi, a natural-wine pour by the glass.
PourSangiovese di Romagna, low-intervention
WineNatural Tuscan wines, small producers
FoodSnacks and small plates from Il Santo Bevitore
TipOpen daily until 23:00; first-come standing room. The bigger dining room next door takes bookings.
Tuscan Taste on Via Romana, between Palazzo Pitti and Boboli, is a 2015 enoteca and tasting room for wine, craft beer, cheese flights and cooking classes.
OrderThe sommelier-led wine tasting with a cheese board; the beer flight if you want a break from Sangiovese.
PourA Supertuscan from the sommelier flight
WineTuscan and natural wines, Supertuscans in the tasting flights
FoodCheese and charcuterie boards with the tastings
TipClosed Wednesday and shut by 21:00, so treat it as an afternoon or aperitivo stop after Boboli. Staff work in four languages; tastings book on the site.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs a hybrid coffee-and-cocktail bar programme, with espresso-martini riffs by Francesco Sanapo's team.
OrderAn espresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a Negroni Bianco.
DrinkCoffee-based cocktails
FoodSmall plates, brunch
TipOpen daily 08:00 to midnight. The cocktail programme runs from 19:00; aperitivo crowd takes the standing area.
Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the standing wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, salumi flights and a 12-seat.
OrderNatural-wine pour by the glass, salumi tagliere, the small daily plate from next door.
DrinkNatural wine by the glass
FoodSalumi, crostini, small plates
TipOpen daily; first-come standing room only. The bigger restaurant next door takes bookings.
Archea Brewery in Florence's Oltrarno is an independent craft pub on Via dei Serragli, leaning Italian and Tuscan on a rotating tap list that runs about.
OrderBlack Tower IPA, a Tuscan craft IPA from the rotating taps, a fresh take-home can sealed at the bar.
TipOpen daily from 18:00. The barman canners fresh take-home cans on request.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the monthly small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday, with 70 stalls of Tuscan.
OrderPecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
TipThird Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Mercato di Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the daily morning produce market on the piazza, Monday to Saturday, with 25 contadini and forno.
OrderTuscan produce from the contadini, the daily bread from the forno stall, Tuscan cheese on Wednesday.
TipMon-Sat 08:00-13:00. The piazza-side cafes open at 07:30 if you want a cornetto first.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito is the organic farmers' and crafts market run by La Fierucola on Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence, every third Sunday except August, 9:00 to 19:00.
In Tavola in Florence's Oltrarno is a dedicated cooking-school space with daily Tuscan classes, the four-hour pasta workshop and a market-walk-and-cook combo.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla fiorentina.
TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs its coffee-and-cocktail programme until midnight nightly, with espresso-martini riffs.
OrderEspresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a late-night Negroni Bianco.
TipOpen daily 08:00 to midnight. Cocktail programme runs from 19:00.
Picteau anchors the Hotel Lungarno lobby on Borgo San Jacopo with a salotto-style room hung with Picasso and Cocteau pieces and a terrace pointed straight at Ponte Vecchio, where bartenders Marco Colonnelli and Vincenzo Civita run a cocktail programme paired with the Borgo San Jacopo kitchen.
TipThe riverside terrace is the seat in summer; the indoor lounge with the Picasso fireplace works year-round. Cocktails run around 22 euros.
Rasputin tucks Florence's first true speakeasy behind an unmarked Borgo Tegolaio door in the Oltrarno, with a 45-seat candle-lit room dressed in red velvet, an extensive whisky back bar and a cocktail list that runs Prohibition classics alongside unexpected ingredient pairings.
TipRing the bell, then wait for the hatch to slide open. Reservation is required, no standing inside, and photography is banned. The location is deliberately misplaced on Google.
Volume occupies an 1887 artisanal-workshop building on Piazza Santo Spirito with mismatched flea-market furniture, sculpted wood-carving relics from its hat-block past and a long aperitivo cadence that turns into live music and cocktails as the piazza fills late.
TipAperitivo daily from 18:30 with the buffet included around 10 euros. The piazza tables outside are the seats in summer; live music slots are several nights a week.
Guided tour · 3h 30m
Discover Florence’s authentic Oltrarno neighborhood at sunset with a small group. Taste handpicked local specialties and fine wines while guided by passionate locals w...
Guided tour · 2h 30m
Discover Florence's Oltrarno neighborhood by visiting local artisan shops, learning about their unique techniques, indulging in handcrafted gelato, and savoring wine f...
Day trip · 8 hours
Celebrate the festive season with a magical day trip from Florence to the Arezzo and Montepulciano Christmas Markets, two of the most charming holiday events in Tuscany.
