Eat in Oltrarno (oltrarno), Florence

Il Santo Bevitore ★ 4.5

Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing market carte since 2002.

Signature: Crudo di manzo, Pici al ragu di anatra, Coniglio in porchetta

Order: The crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.

Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.

I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3

I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.

Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di manzo

Order: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.

Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.

Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry

Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Borgo San Jacopo ★ 4.5

Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern Tuscan tasting menu since 1995.

Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu

Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.

Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.

I Quattro Leoni ★ 4.3

I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.

Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Panna cotta

Order: The fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.

Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.

Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry

Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina povera at €10 a primo.

Signature: Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro, Trippa alla fiorentina

Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.

Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

Fierucola di Santo Spirito ★ 4.4

Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls and a focus on contadini, cheese-makers and bakers.

Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata

Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.

Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00 to 19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno ★ 4.4

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano quarter is the Sprone-corner sister room of Sanapo's flagship, with the same single-origin filter coffee, cocktail program and a small breakfast carte.

Signature drink: Single-origin filter coffee

Order: Filter coffee of the day, the avocado-on-sourdough breakfast, a Negroni at aperitivo.

Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. The Oltrarno room runs the cocktail program later than Via dei Neri.

Le Volpi e l'Uva ★ 4.7

Le Volpi e l'Uva in Florence's Oltrarno is the 1999 wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio, with a hand-curated list of Tuscan small growers, 30 wines by the glass and the famous crostino board.

Signature pour: Sangiovese di Toscana from a small grower

Wine focus: Tuscan natural growers, small producers

Food: Tagliere of salumi and cheese

Order: Crostino del giorno, salumi flight, a glass of Sangiovese from a single-vineyard producer.

Tip: Closed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.

Pitti Gola e Cantina ★ 4.6

Pitti Gola e Cantina in Florence's Oltrarno sits across from Palazzo Pitti, with a 600-bottle natural-and-biodynamic list, charcuterie boards and a daily-changing seasonal small-plates programme.

Signature pour: Brunello di Montalcino from a small estate

Wine focus: Italian natural and biodynamic growers

Food: Charcuterie and small plates

Order: Salumi flight, the daily seasonal plate, a Brunello pour from a single-vineyard estate.

Tip: Closed Sunday. The 20-seat dining room books out two weeks ahead.

Il Santino ★ 4.4

Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore next door, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, small plates from the same kitchen and a 12-seat standing-room counter.

Signature pour: Sangiovese di Romagna, low-intervention

Wine focus: Natural Tuscan wines, small producers

Food: Snacks and small plates from Il Santo Bevitore

Order: The daily small plates from Il Santo Bevitore, salumi, a natural-wine pour by the glass.

Tip: Open daily until 23:00; first-come standing room. The bigger dining room next door takes bookings.

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno ★ 4.4

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs a hybrid coffee-and-cocktail bar programme, with espresso-martini riffs by Francesco Sanapo's team and a Negroni list since 2017.

Signature drink: Coffee-based cocktails

Food: Small plates, brunch

Order: An espresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a Negroni Bianco.

Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. The cocktail programme runs from 19:00; aperitivo crowd takes the standing area.

Il Santino ★ 4.4

Il Santino in Florence's Oltrarno is the standing wine-bar annex of Il Santo Bevitore, with a 200-bottle natural-wine list, salumi flights and a 12-seat standing-room counter open until 23:00 daily.

Signature drink: Natural wine by the glass

Food: Salumi, crostini, small plates

Order: Natural-wine pour by the glass, salumi tagliere, the small daily plate from next door.

Tip: Open daily; first-come standing room only. The bigger restaurant next door takes bookings.

Fierucola di Santo Spirito ★ 4.4

Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the monthly small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday, with 70 stalls of Tuscan organic farmers, cheese-makers and bakers.

Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.

Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00 to 19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.

Mercato di Piazza Santo Spirito ★ 4.2

Mercato di Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence's Oltrarno is the daily morning produce market on the piazza, Monday to Saturday, with 25 contadini and forno stalls and a small artisan-cheese counter on Wednesday.

Order: Tuscan produce from the contadini, the daily bread from the forno stall, Tuscan cheese on Wednesday.

Tip: Mon-Sat 08:00 to 13:00. The piazza-side cafes open at 07:30 if you want a cornetto first.

Fierucola di Santo Spirito ★ 4.4

Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls of contadini, cheese-makers and bakers.

In Tavola ★ 4.4

In Tavola in Florence's Oltrarno is a dedicated cooking-school space with daily Tuscan classes, the four-hour pasta workshop and a market-walk-and-cook combo that starts at Mercato Sant'Ambrogio.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina povera at €10 a primo and the secondi at €12.

Try: Florentine cucina povera lunch

Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla fiorentina.

Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

Trattoria Cammillo ★ 4.4

Why locals love it: Locals send friends here for the crepes alla fiorentina and the Masiero family's 1945 white-tablecloth grammar on Borgo San Jacopo.

Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.

Trattoria La Casalinga ★ 4.1

Why locals love it: Family-run cucina povera since 1963 just off Piazza Santo Spirito; ribollita and trippa for €10 a course, no concession to the centre's tourist circuit.

Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.

Le Volpi e l'Uva ★ 4.7

Why locals love it: A 12-seat wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio with the city's best small-grower Tuscan list, the crostino board locals queue for since 1999.

Tip: Closed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno ★ 4.4

Ditta Artigianale Oltrarno in Florence's San Frediano runs its coffee-and-cocktail programme until midnight nightly, with espresso-martini riffs from Francesco Sanapo's team and small plates served late.

Try: Coffee cocktails, small plates

Order: Espresso martini with single-origin coffee, the Sprone Sour, a late-night Negroni Bianco.

Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. Cocktail programme runs from 19:00.