Trattoria da Rocco in Florence sits inside the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio under the loggia, a market-canteen format with a chalkboard daily carte and lunch for the stall-keepers at €12 per person.
Signature dishes: Pasta al pomodoro, Ribollita, Polpette al sugo
Must order: The daily pasta, ribollita and a quartino of house red from the bar.
Tip: Lunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:00. Cash only; come at 12:30 to beat the stall-keepers' second rush.
Address: Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 50122 Firenze, Florence
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina povera at €10 a primo.
Signature: Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls and a focus on contadini, cheese-makers and bakers.
Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00 to 19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina povera and a chalkboard daily menu.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
Tip: Cash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce, served until midnight every night.
Signature: Assaggio di primi, Bistecca al mirtillo, Filetto al pepe verde
Order: The assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the long Tuscan carte from a square-side terrace on Piazza del Mercato Centrale, with the full Florentine canon and a tasting tray on the menu.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: The Tuscan tasting tray, bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. The terrace fills fastest in summer; book three days ahead.
Cantinetta Antinori in Florence's Palazzo Antinori is the wine-bar-and-trattoria for the 26-generation Antinori wine family, with a 150-bottle list focused on Marchesi Antinori estate Tuscan reds.
Signature: Crostini misti, Tagliata di manzo, Cantucci e Vin Santo
Order: Crostini misti, pici al ragu, the tagliata and a glass of Tignanello.
Tip: Closed Saturday and Sunday. Book the front room for the Antinori cellar tasting flight.
