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ItalianSant Ambrogio
Trattoria da Rocco in Florence sits inside the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio under the loggia, a market-canteen format with a chalkboard daily carte and lunch.
OrderThe daily pasta, ribollita and a quartino of house red from the bar.
TipLunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only; come at 12:30 to beat the stall-keepers' second rush.
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Florentine TrattoriaOltrarno
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
TipClosed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
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ItalianOltrarno
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
OrderPecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
TipThird Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
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Tuscan GrillSan Frediano
Trattoria BBQ on Piazza Tasso in San Frediano cooks over wood: bistecca by the hectogram, chicken under a brick, peposo and pici with wild boar ragù.
OrderBistecca alla fiorentina (€6 per hectogram) or the mixed grill for two (€36); pici al cinghiale (€12) first.
TipPiazza Tasso is a residential square ten minutes west of Santo Spirito, so tables come easier than in the centre. Closed Wednesday; phone bookings 10:00-19:00.
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TuscanCentro Storico
Nerocarbone is a small Tuscan bistrot on Via del Parione, open since 2019 near Palazzo Strozzi: beef tartare cut daily, pappardelle al cinghiale, ribollita.
OrderThe 150 g beef tartare, then pappardelle al cinghiale or trippa alla fiorentina; crostini di fegato to start.
TipA handful of tables, so book for dinner; Sunday runs lunch and an early dinner. All-day hours Tuesday to Saturday make it a late-lunch stop near Via Tornabuoni.
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VenetianCentro Storico
Risotteria Melotti on Via dei Servi is the Florence room of the Melotti rice farm near Verona: a gluten-free menu of risotti cooked with the family's rice.
OrderRisotto all'Isolana (€16), the Veronese original, or the Amarone risotto (€17); rice-flour arancini first.
TipOpen all day from 11:00, two blocks from the Duomo towards Santissima Annunziata, so it works as an off-hours lunch. Sister rooms in Verona, Rome and New York.