Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full Florentine carte from ribollita to bistecca.
Signature dishes: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Tagliatelle al cinghiale
Must order: The full Tuscan tasting tray, then bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.
Address: Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26r, 50123 Firenze, Florence
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Lunch only, no bookings, communal tables, cash only.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico and Brunello producers.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern Tuscan tasting menu since 1995.
Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.
Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. The polpettine and the pappa al pomodoro run the menu since 1989.
Signature: Trippa alla fiorentina, Pappa al pomodoro, Polpettine di pollo
Order: Polpettine di pollo, pappa al pomodoro and the trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: No reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Lunch only, no bookings, communal tables, cash only.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing market carte since 2002.
Signature: Crudo di manzo, Pici al ragu di anatra, Coniglio in porchetta
Order: The crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.
