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Florentine, Wine-ledCentro Storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.
OrderPici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
TipOpen daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
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Modern Tuscan Fine DiningOltrarno
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern.
OrderThe 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
TipClosed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.
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TuscanCentro Storico
The wine family's Florence dining room on Piazza della Signoria: pasta made by the chefs each day, bread baked with the estates' Laudemio oil, over 150 wines.
OrderThe handmade pasta of the day, then a flight of three glasses from different Frescobaldi estates.
TipTables on the square look straight at Palazzo Vecchio. The kitchen runs midday to 23:00, with a lighter Al Fresco menu from 15:00 to 18:00.
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SeafoodSanta Croce
Aroma Ristorante on Via Ghibellina is chef-owner Marco Romei's 30-seat fish restaurant: daily deliveries from the Tuscan coast, bread and pasta made in-house.
OrderThe day's fish from the coast; the menu changes with the catch, so ask what came in and take the house pasta.
TipClosed Monday and open until the last table leaves, so late dinners work. Book by phone; the current menu is posted on the restaurant's Facebook page.
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Modern TuscanCampo Di Marte
BarBar occupies a former gravel works off Via Gioberti, three rooms and a palm-shaded garden, with a seasonal Tuscan menu, biodynamic wines and cocktails.
OrderAgnolotti al piccione (€20), then the stuffed guinea fowl or venison fillet; a cocktail in the garden after.
TipOpened in 2021; the garden fills first on warm evenings, so book by email. Tuesday is dinner only, Monday closed; tapas and a light lunch run beside the carte.
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TuscanSanta Maria Novella
Borderline on Corso Italia, between the station and the river, is a Tuscan restaurant run by three brothers: bistecca, truffle pici and 30-day dry-aged Angus.
OrderPici cacio e pepe al tartufo nero, then bistecca alla fiorentina or the 30-day dry-aged Angus loin.
TipLunch and dinner Monday to Friday, dinner only Saturday, closed Sunday. Book through TheFork; the room is small and the design draws a local crowd.