Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long communal tables and dry-aged Chianina.
Signature dishes: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Must order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) cooked on the wood grill, and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Address: Via del Trebbio 1r, 50123 Firenze, Florence
Saporium in Florence is Ariel Hagen's Michelin-starred farm-to-table room sourced from the Borgo Santo Pietro estate, a tasting carte built off the kitchen garden and herd 90 minutes south.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto, Game
Order: The 8-course tasting menu; the wine pairing tilts toward the Borgo Santo Pietro estate wines.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The estate-wine pairing adds €110; book the chef's counter for kitchen view.
Ristorante Cibreo in Florence is the formal flagship of Fabio Picchi's empire, with the yellow-pepper passato, cresta di gallo cockscomb and the eponymous cibreo offal stew since 1979.
Signature: Passato di peperoni gialli, Cresta di gallo, Cibreo (offal stew)
Order: Passato di peperoni gialli, the cibreo offal stew and any cockscomb course.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; lunch is one fixed tasting. The trattoria around the corner is the easier-priced entry.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired grill in full view of the dining room.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tartare di Chianina, Tagliata
Order: The 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.
Tip: Book a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday; lunch is the calmer service.
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Florence's Piazza della Signoria is Karime Lopez's Michelin-starred kitchen above the Gucci Garden, with Bottura's Emilia Burger and modern-Italian tasting carte.
Signature: Emilia Burger, Tortellini al Parmigiano, Tasting menu
Order: The Emilia Burger (mortadella-and-zampone), the tortellini al Parmigiano and the seasonal tasting menu.
Tip: Book six weeks ahead. The €150 lunch tasting is the entry; the €220 dinner the full set.
Saporium in Florence is Ariel Hagen's Michelin-starred farm-to-table room sourced from the Borgo Santo Pietro estate, a tasting carte built off the kitchen garden and herd 90 minutes south.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto, Game
Order: The 8-course tasting menu; the wine pairing tilts toward the Borgo Santo Pietro estate wines.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The estate-wine pairing adds €110; book the chef's counter for kitchen view.
Santa Elisabetta in Florence's Hotel Brunelleschi holds two Michelin stars under Rocco De Santis, a 24-seat dining room inside a 6th-century Byzantine tower above the centro storico rooftops.
Signature: Pigeon and Yuzu, Mediterranean Risotto, Tasting menu
Order: The pigeon and yuzu signature and the Mediterranean risotto from the tasting carte.
Tip: Book six weeks ahead. The 10-course tasting is €260; €170 for the shorter 7-course set.
