CuisineFlorentine trattoria
Price€€
Neighbourhoodcampo-di-marte

Why locals love it: Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca dinner is the seating locals book three weeks ahead.

Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday.

Location

Address: Via Pistoiese 154, 50145 Firenze, Florence

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Why locals love it: A 16-seat mother-and-son counter in San Niccolo where Alberto Navari plates Giuseppina's tortelli to order; no booking, just queue.

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Why locals love it: Market-canteen lunch inside Sant'Ambrogio for €12, the same plate the stall-keepers eat from a chalkboard daily.

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I Due Fratellini ★ 4.5

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Why locals love it: A hole-in-the-wall mini-panino counter from 1875 with 28 varieties at €4 and a shelf outside to hold your wine glass.

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Why locals love it: Family-run cucina povera since 1963 just off Piazza Santo Spirito; ribollita and trippa for €10 a course, no concession to the centre's tourist circuit.

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Le Volpi e l'Uva ★ 4.7

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Why locals love it: A 12-seat wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio with the city's best small-grower Tuscan list, the crostino board locals queue for since 1999.

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Casa del Vino ★ 4.4

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Why locals love it: An 1898 standing wine bar behind Mercato Centrale with €5 panini and €3 wine, frequented by stall-keepers and locals who know the shelf-on-the-street trick.

Tip: Closed Sunday; standing only. €3 glasses, €5 panini. The shelf outside the door holds your glass.

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