Florentine trattoria€€oltrarno
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di manzo
Order: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Modern Tuscan€€€san-frediano
Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano runs the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse, with a lampredotto course that reframes the street classic.
Signature: Tasting menu, Lampredotto reinterpreted, Game
Order: The five-course tasting and the lampredotto reinterpreted dish if it is on the carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; tasting menus only at dinner. Book three weeks ahead.
Modern Italian, all-day€€€san-lorenzo
La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo is the all-day concept in a 19th-century housewares shop, with breakfast, brunch, lunch, aperitivo and dinner under one roof since 2015.
Signature: Brunch, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Aperitivo plate
Order: The weekend brunch, tagliatelle al tartufo and the aperitivo plate at 18:30.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to midnight. The flower-shop entrance is a draw; book the back dining room for dinner.
Florentine, Tuscan€€€santa-maria-novella
Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. The bistecca is dry-aged 40 days and the pici come from the in-house lab.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pici cacio e pepe, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Open daily for dinner only.
Florentine trattoria, bistecca€€€santa-maria-novella
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long communal tables and dry-aged Chianina.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) cooked on the wood grill, and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Florentine, Tuscan fine dining€€€€sant-ambrogio
Ristorante Cibreo in Florence is the formal flagship of Fabio Picchi's empire, with the yellow-pepper passato, cresta di gallo cockscomb and the eponymous cibreo offal stew since 1979.
Signature: Passato di peperoni gialli, Cresta di gallo, Cibreo (offal stew)
Order: Passato di peperoni gialli, the cibreo offal stew and any cockscomb course.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; lunch is one fixed tasting. The trattoria around the corner is the easier-priced entry.
