I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Signature dishes: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Panna cotta
Must order: The fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30.
Address: Via dei Vellutini 1r, 50125 Firenze, Florence
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: The Friday-night bistecca tasting; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates and an all-organic wine list.
Signature: Pici al ragu, Bistecca, Crostini di fegatini
Order: Pici al ragu, the crostini di fegatini and a glass of natural Chianti.
Tip: Closed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.
Cucina Torcicoda in Florence's Santa Croce district is a three-room concept (osteria, pizzeria and ristorante) under one roof, with the bistecca cellar and a modern Tuscan tasting carte.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di Chianina, Tartare
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina from the dedicated ristorante room, or the pizza next door.
Tip: Three connected rooms with different menus; the ristorante books out 2 weeks ahead.
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long communal tables and dry-aged Chianina.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan offal-cuisine carte every day.
Signature: Tagliata di Chianina, Pappardelle al cinghiale, Ribollita
Order: Tagliata di Chianina, pappardelle al cinghiale, the ribollita in winter.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.
