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ItalianOltrarno
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
OrderPecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
TipThird Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
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Tuscan GrillSan Frediano
Trattoria BBQ on Piazza Tasso in San Frediano cooks over wood: bistecca by the hectogram, chicken under a brick, peposo and pici with wild boar ragù.
OrderBistecca alla fiorentina (€6 per hectogram) or the mixed grill for two (€36); pici al cinghiale (€12) first.
TipPiazza Tasso is a residential square ten minutes west of Santo Spirito, so tables come easier than in the centre. Closed Wednesday; phone bookings 10:00-19:00.
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TuscanCentro Storico
Nerocarbone is a small Tuscan bistrot on Via del Parione, open since 2019 near Palazzo Strozzi: beef tartare cut daily, pappardelle al cinghiale, ribollita.
OrderThe 150 g beef tartare, then pappardelle al cinghiale or trippa alla fiorentina; crostini di fegato to start.
TipA handful of tables, so book for dinner; Sunday runs lunch and an early dinner. All-day hours Tuesday to Saturday make it a late-lunch stop near Via Tornabuoni.
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VenetianCentro Storico
Risotteria Melotti on Via dei Servi is the Florence room of the Melotti rice farm near Verona: a gluten-free menu of risotti cooked with the family's rice.
OrderRisotto all'Isolana (€16), the Veronese original, or the Amarone risotto (€17); rice-flour arancini first.
TipOpen all day from 11:00, two blocks from the Duomo towards Santissima Annunziata, so it works as an off-hours lunch. Sister rooms in Verona, Rome and New York.
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ChineseSanta Croce
Sina Hotpot on Via Ghibellina is the Florence branch of a Prato hotpot house: a simmering pot per table, mild, spicy or split broth, thin-cut meats and tofu.
OrderThe split pot, half mild and half spicy, with the sliced meat platter and mushrooms, added as you go.
TipBookings by WhatsApp or online; the Prato original runs late, the Florence room closes at 23:00. Good for groups, since the pot is shared and the pace is slow.
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Florentine TrattoriaSanta Maria Novella
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina.
OrderRibollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
TipCash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.