Tuscan small-producer market€oltrarno
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls and a focus on contadini, cheese-makers and bakers.
Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00 to 19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Florentine trattoria€€santa-maria-novella
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina povera and a chalkboard daily menu.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
Tip: Cash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
Florentine, modern€€santa-croce
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce, served until midnight every night.
Signature: Assaggio di primi, Bistecca al mirtillo, Filetto al pepe verde
Order: The assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.
Florentine trattoria€€san-lorenzo
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the long Tuscan carte from a square-side terrace on Piazza del Mercato Centrale, with the full Florentine canon and a tasting tray on the menu.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: The Tuscan tasting tray, bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. The terrace fills fastest in summer; book three days ahead.
Tuscan, wine-led€€€santa-maria-novella
Cantinetta Antinori in Florence's Palazzo Antinori is the wine-bar-and-trattoria for the 26-generation Antinori wine family, with a 150-bottle list focused on Marchesi Antinori estate Tuscan reds.
Signature: Crostini misti, Tagliata di manzo, Cantucci e Vin Santo
Order: Crostini misti, pici al ragu, the tagliata and a glass of Tignanello.
Tip: Closed Saturday and Sunday. Book the front room for the Antinori cellar tasting flight.
Florentine, wine-led€€centro-storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico producers.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi tagliere and a Chianti Classico flight from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight adds €25.
