Modern Tuscan bistrot€€santa-croce
Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates and an all-organic wine list.
Signature: Pici al ragu, Bistecca, Crostini di fegatini
Order: Pici al ragu, the crostini di fegatini and a glass of natural Chianti.
Tip: Closed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.
Modern Tuscan€€€santa-croce
Cucina Torcicoda in Florence's Santa Croce district is a three-room concept (osteria, pizzeria and ristorante) under one roof, with the bistecca cellar and a modern Tuscan tasting carte.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di Chianina, Tartare
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina from the dedicated ristorante room, or the pizza next door.
Tip: Three connected rooms with different menus; the ristorante books out 2 weeks ahead.
Florentine, bistecca-led€€€santa-maria-novella
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long communal tables and dry-aged Chianina.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Florentine trattoria€€centro-storico
Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan offal-cuisine carte every day.
Signature: Tagliata di Chianina, Pappardelle al cinghiale, Ribollita
Order: Tagliata di Chianina, pappardelle al cinghiale, the ribollita in winter.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.
Modern Tuscan, small plates€€san-niccolo
Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother Giuseppina's tortelli to order.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci, Tagliata, Pici al ragu
Order: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci to order, the daily pasta and any tagliata.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
Florentine trattoria€€santa-maria-novella
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.