Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Rome actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Rome actually eats.
Gabriele Bonci's Pizzarium near the Vatican in Rome is the pizza al taglio counter that re-wrote how the city does slices, with toppings that rotate.
OrderPizza bianca with mortadella, the potato slice with rosemary, a suppli on the side.
TipOpen from 11:00 daily; line moves fast. Slices are sold by weight. Eat standing or take to nearby park.
Pizzeria Da Remo in Rome's Testaccio is the classic Roman pizza room with paper-thin crusts, the city's busiest suppli counter and a queue that wraps.
OrderRoman pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, and the bruschetta with anchovies.
TipCash only. No bookings; arrive 19:00 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Closed Sunday.
Li Rioni in Rome's Celio district near the Colosseum runs the canonical wood-fire Roman pizza with paper-thin crusts and the city's best fiori di zucca.
OrderPizza alla romana, fiori di zucca and a suppli al telefono.
TipClosed Tuesday all day. The terrace tables on Via dei Santi Quattro book a week ahead.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braises since 2008. Priced at €.
OrderTrapizzino with pollo alla cacciatora and another with melanzane alla parmigiana.
TipOpen 12:00-24:00 daily; the Piazza Trilussa location is the original of the brand.
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella.
OrderThe classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
TipCash and card. Open 12:00-22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale.
OrderPizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
TipClosed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa.
OrderPizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:00-19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin.
OrderSuppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long.
OrderFettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
TipNo bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
Ai Tre Scalini in Rome's Monti district is the wine-bar trattoria with a 200-bottle list, the polpette al sugo lunch carte and the small front pavement seats.
OrderPolpette al sugo, tonnarelli cacio e pepe and a glass of Lazio Cesanese.
TipCash and card. Open 12:30-23:00; reservations only after 19:00 for tables of four or more.
Trattoria Da Teo in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run pasta-and-pizza room with a piazza-side terrace, classic Roman primi and a quiet wine list of Lazio.
OrderCacio e pepe, saltimbocca alla romana and a half-litre of house wine.
TipBook a fortnight ahead for the piazza terrace. Closed Sunday all day.
Jacopo Mercuro's 180g Pizzeria Romana in Rome's Centocelle quarter has put the modern Roman pizza on the city's must-eat list, weighing each crust.
OrderThe signature 180g margherita and the mortadella-stracciatella focaccia, plus a suppli to share.
TipClosed Monday. Book a week ahead; the room holds 40 covers. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk.
Spirito Divino in Rome's Trastevere is the cellared-bistro with a 700-bottle wine list, the maialino al miele (honey-glazed pork) and the cellar tour.
OrderThe maialino al miele, spaghettoni cacio e pepe, and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipClosed Sunday all day. The €60 four-course set with paired wine is the value entry.
Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.
OrderBucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.
Volpetti in Rome's Testaccio is the 1973-founded salumeria counter with 300 Italian cheeses, a salumi case stocked from every region and a takeaway pasta.
OrderThe cheese flight tasting at the counter and a salumi board with prosciutto di Parma.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 08:00-14:00 and 16:30-20:15. Closed Sunday. Cheese tour by request.
Doppio Zeroo in Rome's Ostiense district is the all-day pizza-and-aperitivo room with a long deli counter, the city's most generous aperitivo bar at 19:00.
OrderThe aperitivo buffet from 19:00 with a glass of Lazio white, plus slices of pizza al taglio.
TipOpen daily 07:00-02:00. The 19:00 aperitivo is the value entry; book the rooftop in summer.
Trattoria Dal Cavalier Gino in Rome's Centro Storico is the politicians' lunch room near the Parliament, with frescoed walls and the coniglio alla cacciatora.
OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe, coniglio alla cacciatora, and a half-litre of house Frascati.
TipClosed Sunday. Book a week ahead; the back-room frescoed alcoves are the ask.
Antica Pesa in Rome's Trastevere is the 1922-founded trattoria with a hidden walled garden, the celebrity-spot lunch room and the cacio e pepe that critics.
OrderCacio e pepe, tagliata di manzo, and the carciofi alla giudia in season.
TipBook the walled garden three weeks ahead for May to September. Closed Sunday all day.
Risotteria Melotti in Rome's Centro Storico is a rice house near Piazza Navona cooking the Veronese risotto tradition with a fully gluten-free menu.
OrderA classic risotto from the Veronese side of the menu; everything in the room is gluten-free.
TipOpen daily 11:00-22:30 with no afternoon break, useful when the trattorie around Navona are shut between services.
Trattoria Dal Cordaro in Rome's Trastevere edge is the Dori family's 1922 Roman trattoria at Porta Portese, with chef Maurizio Villa and a summer garden.
OrderStay with the Roman canon here, the pastas and the seasonal secondi the kitchen has cooked since 1922.
TipLunch 12:30-15:00 and dinner 19:30-22:30. Ask for the garden in summer; it sits a few steps from the Porta Portese market.
La Pentolaccia in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is a Via Flavia trattoria cooking Roman meat dishes and fresh fish, open every day with no closing day.
OrderCarbonara or tonnarelli cacio e pepe first, then whichever fresh fish is on the board that day.
TipOpen daily 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-23:00, so it takes the early dinner most Roman kitchens refuse. Near Termini and Via XX Settembre.
Da Francesco in Rome's Centro Storico is the Piazza del Fico trattoria Francesco Boni and Amalia Tognoloni took over in 1957, cooking Roman classics all day.
OrderCarbonara or amatriciana, the fried oxtail cubes if they are on, and fettuccine ai carciofi in season.
TipOpen daily 12:00-23:30 without a break. The piazza tables fill by 20:00; the upstairs Da Francesco Su is a separate fusion room.
Tiberino in Rome's Isola Tiberina is the family bar and restaurant run since 1936 on Ponte Quattro Capi, serving Roman plates from breakfast to a late drink.
OrderRavioli alla gricia and the uovo barzotto with pecorino cream and crisp guanciale.
TipMonday and Sunday close at 16:30; Tuesday to Saturday runs until midnight. The tables on the bridge are the draw.
Guided tour · 4 hours
Taste your way around Rome's Trastevere neighborhood on a walking tour with a local guide. Try a wide variety of Italian classics including pizza, pasta, gelato, pork,...
Guided tour · 3h 30m
Explore this hidden gem neighborhood, Testaccio, home to Rome’s best eats. Take a guided tour of the traditional market, visit 8 authentic eateries, and enjoy a full l...
Guided tour · 4 hours
Taste Rome in comfort by golf cart, in a small group tour, with wine, five iconic dishes, Trastevere dining, and a Prosecco toast at Gianicolo Hill, all in one seamles...