The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa, and the city's best maritozzo to order.
Signature dishes: Pizza bianca, Pizza rossa, Maritozzo
Must order: Pizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 07:00 to 19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
Address: Via dei Chiavari 34, 00186 Roma, Rome
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long marble counter.
Signature: Fettuccine, Cacio e pepe, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: Fettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
Tip: No bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin to Supplizio.
Signature: Suppli, Fiori di zucca, Crocchette di patate
Order: Suppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00 to 22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long marble counter.
Signature: Fettuccine, Cacio e pepe, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: Fettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
Tip: No bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
Ai Tre Scalini in Rome's Monti district is the wine-bar trattoria with a 200-bottle list, the polpette al sugo lunch carte and the small front pavement seats for aperitivo.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette al sugo, Caprese
Order: Polpette al sugo, tonnarelli cacio e pepe and a glass of Lazio Cesanese.
Tip: Cash and card. Open 12:30 to 23:00; reservations only after 19:00 for tables of four or more.
Trattoria Da Teo in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run pasta-and-pizza room with a piazza-side terrace, classic Roman primi and a quiet wine list of Lazio reds.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca, Tonnarelli
Order: Cacio e pepe, saltimbocca alla romana and a half-litre of house wine.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the piazza terrace. Closed Sunday all day.
Jacopo Mercuro's 180g Pizzeria Romana in Rome's Centocelle quarter has put the modern Roman pizza on the city's must-eat list, weighing each crust at the namesake 180 grammes.
Signature: Pizza romana 180g, Suppli, Mortadella focaccia
Order: The signature 180g margherita and the mortadella-stracciatella focaccia, plus a suppli to share.
Tip: Closed Monday. Book a week ahead; the room holds 40 covers. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk.
Spirito Divino in Rome's Trastevere is the cellared-bistro with a 700-bottle wine list, the maialino al miele (honey-glazed pork) and the cellar tour by Eliana Catalani before lunch.
Signature: Maialino al miele, Spaghettoni cacio e pepe, Carciofi
Order: The maialino al miele, spaghettoni cacio e pepe, and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. The €60 four-course set with paired wine is the value entry.
