Across-the-Tiber medieval lanes with cobbled trattorias, the Sunday morning Porta Portese market and the late-night maritozzo at Pasticceria Innocenti.
Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.
Signature: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Carciofo alla giudia
Order: Carbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.
Tip: No bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.
Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome's western Trastevere edge, run by Leonardo Vignoli, is the locals' Sunday trattoria. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette di bollito, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The fried cacio e pepe cup, polpette di bollito, and a quartino of house red.
Tip: Take tram 8 from Trastevere to the end of the line. Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch.
La Tavernaccia da Bruno in Rome's western Trastevere edge has a wood-fire spit roasting porchetta and a Thursday-only lasagna that locals book three weeks.
Signature: Lasagna del giovedi, Porchetta, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe
Order: The Thursday lasagna if you can land a table, otherwise the porchetta and tonnarelli cacio e pepe.
Tip: Thursday lasagna sells out by 14:00 and books up two weeks ahead. Closed Wednesday.
Antico Arco on Rome's Gianicolo hill is the modern-Roman dining room with a panoramic terrace. Located in Trastevere. Kitchen leans modern italian.
Signature: Carbonara, Filetto al Barolo, Tortino al cioccolato
Order: The carbonara, filetto al Barolo, and the molten chocolate tortino with vanilla gelato.
Tip: Book a sunset table on the terrace three weeks out. Tram 8 from Trastevere drops at the foot of the hill.
Osteria Fernanda in Rome's southern Trastevere edge is Davide Del Duca's modern-Italian tasting room. Priced at €€€. Kitchen leans modern italian.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto, Pigeon
Order: The carte blanche tasting if you have three hours; otherwise the weekday lunch set.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday all day. The €80 lunch tasting is the steal vs €110 dinner.
Cristina Bowerman's Glass Hostaria in Rome's Trastevere holds one Michelin star for the modern Roman tasting menu with the city's strongest representation.
Tip: Closed Monday all day. The €95 vegetarian tasting runs the same length as the omnivore carte.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braises since 2008. Priced at €.
Signature: Trapizzino, Suppli, Pollo alla cacciatora
Order: Trapizzino with pollo alla cacciatora and another with melanzane alla parmigiana.
Tip: Open 12:00-24:00 daily; the Piazza Trilussa location is the original of the brand.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale.
Signature: Roman pizza, Suppli, Fritti
Order: Pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
Tip: Closed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin.
Signature: Suppli, Fiori di zucca, Crocchette di patate
Order: Suppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
Trattoria Da Teo in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run pasta-and-pizza room with a piazza-side terrace, classic Roman primi and a quiet wine list of Lazio.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca, Tonnarelli
Order: Cacio e pepe, saltimbocca alla romana and a half-litre of house wine.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the piazza terrace. Closed Sunday all day.
Spirito Divino in Rome's Trastevere is the cellared-bistro with a 700-bottle wine list, the maialino al miele (honey-glazed pork) and the cellar tour.
Signature: Maialino al miele, Spaghettoni cacio e pepe, Carciofi
Order: The maialino al miele, spaghettoni cacio e pepe, and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. The €60 four-course set with paired wine is the value entry.
Antica Pesa in Rome's Trastevere is the 1922-founded trattoria with a hidden walled garden, the celebrity-spot lunch room and the cacio e pepe that critics.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Tagliata di manzo, Carciofi alla giudia
Order: Cacio e pepe, tagliata di manzo, and the carciofi alla giudia in season.
Tip: Book the walled garden three weeks ahead for May to September. Closed Sunday all day.
Pasticceria Innocenti in Rome's Trastevere has baked classic Roman pastries since 1973, with the late-night maritozzo counter open until 21:00 and a long.
Tip: The 19:00 maritozzo restock is the freshest of the day; bun-and-cream sells for 4 euros.
Worth the queue: Maritozzo con la panna
Il Maritozzo Rosso in Rome's Trastevere is the maritozzo specialist counter with 18 daily versions including porchetta, mortadella and vegan plus the classic.
Tip: The savoury porchetta maritozzo is the lunch order; the cream version is the dessert pick.
Worth the queue: Maritozzo with porchetta
Panificio Mosca in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run bakery serving pizza bianca by weight, sourdough loaves and a long focaccia counter at lunchtime.
Tip: Cash only. Open 07:00; the pizza bianca lunch counter heats up at 12:00. Closed Sunday.
Worth the queue: Pizza bianca
Enoteca L'Antidoto in Rome's Trastevere off Piazza Trilussa is the tiny hideout natural-wine bar with a 400-bottle list, the simple small-plates kitchen.
Signature pour: Lazio Cesanese natural cuvée from Le Coste, by the glass
Wine focus: Natural Italian and import wines, bottle service
Food: Small plates kitchen, occasional pop-up dinners
Tip: Closed Monday. Book the four-top a fortnight ahead; bottle service is the rule and corkage is included.
Freni e Frizioni in Rome's Trastevere is the converted-garage cocktail bar with the city's most generous aperitivo buffet from 19:00, plus a long.
Signature drink: Aperitivo buffet, classic cocktails
Food: Aperitivo buffet, light dinner
Tip: Open daily 18:00-02:00. The aperitivo buffet at 10 euros with a cocktail is the value entry; arrive 19:00.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake pocket-of-pizza-bianca stuffed with Roman braises in 2008, with the pollo alla.
Try: Trapizzino, pizza-pocket of pizza bianca
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to midnight. Trapizzini cost 5 euros each; the pollo alla cacciatora is the lead order.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, with the 19:00 fryer batch.
Try: Suppli, fiori di zucca, fritti
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00-22:00. Standing room. The fritti misti costs 8 euros by weight.
Da Cesare al Casaletto's takeaway counter in Rome's western Trastevere edge sells the famous fried cacio e pepe cup and polpette sandwiches to take.
Try: Cacio e pepe-fried-cup, polpette sandwiches
Tip: Lunch takeaway only; closed Wednesday. The fried cacio e pepe cup is 4 euros; take to the park.
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa in Rome's Trastevere is the famous tiny-room craft beer bar (the Football Pub) with 16 rotating taps of Italian and Belgian craft.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-02:00. Cash and card; the room holds 20; standing room only most nights.
Treefolk's Public House in Rome's Trastevere district is the British-leaning gastropub with 12 cask handpulls and 8 keg taps, the 60-bottle whisky cellar.
Tip: Open daily from 18:00. The cask flight of three handpulls at 14 euros is the order; book the Camino Room ten days ahead.
Mercato di San Cosimato in Rome's Trastevere is the local open-air piazza market with produce, cheese and fish counters, the quiet alternative.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Arrive 08:00 for the trattoria-trade hours; the cheese stand is the lead vendor.
Porta Portese in Rome's southern Trastevere edge is the Sunday-morning flea market with 1000 vendors across vintage, antiques and small food stalls.
Tip: Open Sunday only 07:00-14:00. Arrive 08:00 for the quieter hours; food stalls run along Via Portuense.
Eating Europe's Rome pasta-making class in Trastevere runs a hands-on workshop covering fresh pasta, carbonara, cacio e pepe and tiramisu, with the cooked.
Tip: Daily departures at 10:00 and 16:30; book a week ahead. The Trastevere location is a five-minute walk from Piazza Santa Maria.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome sells the namesake pocket of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braised meats for €5 each, with the pollo alla cacciatora.
Try: Trapizzino (pizza pocket with Roman braise)
Tip: Open 12:00-24:00 daily. Two trapizzini for lunch run €10; cash and card.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere sells suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight from €3 to €8 per portion, with the 19:00 fryer batch the freshest.
Try: Suppli, fritti misti
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing room only. Mixed fritti box is €8 for two to share.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere runs the late-night counter to midnight with the namesake pizza-pocket sandwiches, suppli and Italian.
Try: Trapizzino, suppli, beer
Tip: Open 12:00-24:00 daily. The pollo alla cacciatora trapizzino and a glass of craft beer is the late-night order.
Pasticceria Innocenti in Rome's Trastevere stays open to 21:00 (late for a Roman pasticceria), with the evening maritozzo restock the late-night sweet ritual.
Try: Maritozzo con la panna
Tip: Open daily 06:30-21:00. The 19:00 maritozzo restock is the freshest of the day for 4 euros.
Big Mama has run on a Trastevere side street since 1984 and styles itself the Home of the Blues in Roma, with a small, low-ceilinged room that hosts nightly blues, jazz, rock and singer-songwriter sets from late September through early June.
Tip: Doors at 21:00, shows around 22:30; the room is tiny so arrive early for a sightline. The kitchen runs a short menu if you want to eat before the set.
La Punta is the Trastevere agaveria from the Jerry Thomas Project team, with one of Italy's deepest tequila and mezcal back bars paired with a tight Mexican-inspired food menu, and a tucked-in feel that reads more speakeasy than bar.
Tip: Small room, no street signage, reservations advised on weekends. Ask the bartender to walk you through the agave list; the back bar is the whole point.
Freni e Frizioni has run a Trastevere ex-garage at Via del Politeama since 2007, with a small inside room, an aperitivo buffet from 19:00 and the river-side piazza outside that fills with a young Roman crowd well past midnight.
Tip: Six euro cocktails through aperitivo include the vegetarian buffet, the cheapest way to drink in Trastevere. The piazza in front is the room past 22:00.
Garbo runs a small Trastevere cocktail room a couple of corners from Piazza Santa Maria, with a cozy bar layout, a mixed crowd and a thirty-something feel that pushes hardest from Thursday through Saturday past midnight.
Tip: Tuesday through Sunday only; the room fills by midnight on Friday and Saturday so plan an earlier arrival if you want a banquette.
Bar San Calisto has run on a Trastevere square a corner from Piazza Santa Maria since 1969, with prices stuck in another decade, scuffed tables spilling into the piazza and a regular crowd of locals, students and old-timers that holds the room past midnight.
Tip: Pay at the cash register first then redeem the receipt at the bar. The piazza tables are the seats to get; arrive before 22:00 on weekends.
Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa runs a tiny standing room on Via Benedetta near the Tiber, with a rotating draft list that swings between Italian craft microbreweries and a small Loverbeer-heavy bottle fridge, and a crowd that spills onto the street most nights.
Tip: The room holds maybe fifteen people; the line outside is the room. Ask the bartender what's new on tap, the list changes weekly.