The multi-ethnic quarter around Piazza Vittorio, with the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino's Chinese, Bangladeshi and African stalls and the city's best ramen counters.
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
Signature: Trippa alla romana, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette al sugo
Order: The trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter is the bakery-cafe with marble counters, daily pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight and the busiest. At Via Merulana 54.
Signature drink: Espresso, cornetto, pizza bianca
Tip: Open 07:00-22:00 daily. The pizza bianca lunch counter is the working-quarter steal at three euros per slice.
Pasticceria Regoli in Rome's Esquilino has baked the city's defining maritozzo con la panna since 1916, with the fluffy bun split and stuffed with whipped.
Tip: Open from 06:45; the maritozzo sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays. Cash and card; standing room only.
Worth the queue: Maritozzo con la panna
Trimani Il Wine Bar in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is the Trimani family's wine bar (the retail cellar runs since 1821), with 5000 labels in the back.
Signature pour: Aglianico del Vulture Paternoster, by the glass
Wine focus: Italian regional wines, classic cellar
Food: Salumi, cheese, Roman small plates
Tip: Closed Sunday. The cellar tour Saturday 11:00 is free for groups of six or more; book a fortnight ahead.
The Yellow Bar in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the hostel-attached late-night bar with the city's strongest late crowd, a craft-beer list of 30 taps.
Signature drink: Cocktails, craft beer
Food: Snacks, late-night pizza
Tip: Open daily 18:00-04:00. The 22:00 happy hour with three-euro draft beers is the budget hour.
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient-Roman crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella.
Try: Pinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
Tip: Closed Sat and Sun. The pinsa costs 4-6 euros; the lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00. Cash and card.
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino in Rome's Esquilino district is the multi-ethnic covered market with Chinese, Bangladeshi and African produce stalls.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Arrive before 12:00 for the freshest produce. The halal butchers operate from 07:00.
Mercato Centrale Roma in the Termini railway station is the all-day food hall with 25 vendor stalls including Bonci pizza, Trapizzino, ramen counter.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to midnight. The Bonci pizza counter and the Trapizzino stall are the lead orders.
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella or simple.
Try: Pinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
Tip: Closed Sat and Sun. The lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00; cash and card.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter is the bakery-cafe with pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight at the standing counter, plus the cornetto-and-espresso.
Try: Pizza bianca counter, cornetto-and-espresso
Tip: Pizza bianca by the slice runs €3-5; the cornetto-and-coffee breakfast set is €3.50 at the bar.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter runs an all-day bakery brunch with pizza bianca slices, frittatas, sandwiches and the cornetto-and-cappuccino counter.
Order: Pizza bianca with mortadella plus a cornetto and cappuccino at the bar.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-22:00. The pizza bianca lunch counter heats up at 12:00; arrive before for the freshest.