The multi-ethnic quarter around Piazza Vittorio, with the Nuovo Mercato Esquilino's Chinese, Bangladeshi and African stalls and the city's best ramen counters.
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
OrderThe trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipBook three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
Chinappi in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is the Formia fish family's city dining room, with three tasting menus and a 200-label cellar behind the seafood.
OrderThe menu a sorpresa, a multi-course set chosen by Stefano Chinappi from the day's catch.
TipClosed Monday. The set menus are the way in; the a la carte fish is priced by weight, so ask before ordering.
Bussarakham in Rome's Esquilino is a Thai restaurant on Via Emanuele Filiberto by Manzoni metro, with green curry and clearly marked vegan dishes.
OrderThe green curry, then a vegetable stir-fry; the vegan choices are marked on the menu.
TipTuesday is dinner only; every other day runs lunch and dinner. A ten-minute walk from San Giovanni in Laterano.
La Pentolaccia in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is a Via Flavia trattoria cooking Roman meat dishes and fresh fish, open every day with no closing day.
OrderCarbonara or tonnarelli cacio e pepe first, then whichever fresh fish is on the board that day.
TipOpen daily 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-23:00, so it takes the early dinner most Roman kitchens refuse. Near Termini and Via XX Settembre.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter is the bakery-cafe with marble counters, daily pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight and the busiest. At Via Merulana 54.
DrinkEspresso, cornetto, pizza bianca
TipOpen 07:00-22:00 daily. The pizza bianca lunch counter is the working-quarter steal at three euros per slice.
Pasticceria Regoli in Rome's Esquilino has baked the city's defining maritozzo con la panna since 1916, with the fluffy bun split and stuffed with whipped.
Worth the queueMaritozzo con la panna
TipOpen from 06:45; the maritozzo sells out by 11:00 on Saturdays. Cash and card; standing room only.
Trimani Il Wine Bar in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is the Trimani family's wine bar (the retail cellar runs since 1821), with 5000 labels in the back.
PourAglianico del Vulture Paternoster, by the glass
WineItalian regional wines, classic cellar
FoodSalumi, cheese, Roman small plates
TipClosed Sunday. The cellar tour Saturday 11:00 is free for groups of six or more; book a fortnight ahead.
The Yellow Bar in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the hostel-attached late-night bar with the city's strongest late crowd, a craft-beer list of 30 taps.
DrinkCocktails, craft beer
FoodSnacks, late-night pizza
TipOpen daily 18:00-04:00. The 22:00 happy hour with three-euro draft beers is the budget hour.
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient-Roman crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella.
TryPinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
TipClosed Sat and Sun. The pinsa costs 4-6 euros; the lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00. Cash and card.
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino in Rome's Esquilino district is the multi-ethnic covered market with Chinese, Bangladeshi and African produce stalls.
TipClosed Sunday. Arrive before 12:00 for the freshest produce. The halal butchers operate from 07:00.
Mercato Centrale Roma in the Termini railway station is the all-day food hall with 25 vendor stalls including Bonci pizza, Trapizzino, ramen counter.
TipOpen daily 08:00 to midnight. The Bonci pizza counter and the Trapizzino stall are the lead orders.
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella or simple.
TryPinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
TipClosed Sat and Sun. The lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00; cash and card.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter is the bakery-cafe with pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight at the standing counter, plus the cornetto-and-espresso.
TryPizza bianca counter, cornetto-and-espresso
TipPizza bianca by the slice runs €3-5; the cornetto-and-coffee breakfast set is €3.50 at the bar.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter runs an all-day bakery brunch with pizza bianca slices, frittatas, sandwiches and the cornetto-and-cappuccino counter.
OrderPizza bianca with mortadella plus a cornetto and cappuccino at the bar.
TipOpen daily 07:00-22:00. The pizza bianca lunch counter heats up at 12:00; arrive before for the freshest.
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