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Roman TrattoriaTrastevere
Trattoria Da Teo in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run pasta-and-pizza room with a piazza-side terrace, classic Roman primi and a quiet wine list of Lazio.
OrderCacio e pepe, saltimbocca alla romana and a half-litre of house wine.
TipBook a fortnight ahead for the piazza terrace. Closed Sunday all day.
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Roman PizzaCentocelle
Jacopo Mercuro's 180g Pizzeria Romana in Rome's Centocelle quarter has put the modern Roman pizza on the city's must-eat list, weighing each crust.
OrderThe signature 180g margherita and the mortadella-stracciatella focaccia, plus a suppli to share.
TipClosed Monday. Book a week ahead; the room holds 40 covers. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk.
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Roman TrattoriaTrastevere
Spirito Divino in Rome's Trastevere is the cellared-bistro with a 700-bottle wine list, the maialino al miele (honey-glazed pork) and the cellar tour.
OrderThe maialino al miele, spaghettoni cacio e pepe, and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipClosed Sunday all day. The €60 four-course set with paired wine is the value entry.
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Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico
Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.
OrderBucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.
TipClosed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.
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ItalianTestaccio
Volpetti in Rome's Testaccio is the 1973-founded salumeria counter with 300 Italian cheeses, a salumi case stocked from every region and a takeaway pasta.
OrderThe cheese flight tasting at the counter and a salumi board with prosciutto di Parma.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 08:00-14:00 and 16:30-20:15. Closed Sunday. Cheese tour by request.
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Modern RomanOstiense
Doppio Zeroo in Rome's Ostiense district is the all-day pizza-and-aperitivo room with a long deli counter, the city's most generous aperitivo bar at 19:00.
OrderThe aperitivo buffet from 19:00 with a glass of Lazio white, plus slices of pizza al taglio.
TipOpen daily 07:00-02:00. The 19:00 aperitivo is the value entry; book the rooftop in summer.