Eat well in Rome for under €15 a plate: the locals'-budget edition.
Eat well in Rome for under €15 a plate: the places locals on a budget actually use.
Pizzarium near Vatican in Rome is Gabriele Bonci's pizza al taglio counter, with slices sold by weight from €5 to €7; a generous slice plus a suppli runs.
Try: Pizza al taglio by weight
Tip: Open 11:00-22:00 daily. The 12:00 batch is the freshest of the morning.
Mordi e Vai in the Mercato di Testaccio in Rome sells Sergio Esposito's slow-braised allesso di scottona (beef shoulder) sandwich for €5, the city's defining.
Try: Roman braised-meat sandwich
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome sells the namesake pocket of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braised meats for €5 each, with the pollo alla cacciatora.
Try: Trapizzino (pizza pocket with Roman braise)
Tip: Open 12:00-24:00 daily. Two trapizzini for lunch run €10; cash and card.
Forno Campo de' Fiori in Rome bakes pizza bianca by weight at €3-4 per slice. Cash only. Open Mon-Sat 07:30-14:30 and 16:45-20:00; closed Sunday.
Try: Pizza bianca by weight
Tip: Cash only. Open Mon-Sat 07:30-14:30 and 16:45-20:00; closed Sunday.
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the specialist suppli counter at €3 each. Two suppli and a glass of wine runs under €10 for a quick.
Try: Suppli al telefono
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 12:00-22:00; closed Monday. Cash and card Cash is faster than card.
Pinsere in Rome's Castro Pretorio district is the pinsa Romana counter, serving the ancient crisp flatbread topped with mortadella, mozzarella or simple.
Try: Pinsa Romana (ancient Roman flatbread)
Tip: Closed Sat and Sun. The lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00; cash and card.
Enoteca Corsi in Rome's Centro Storico has been a working-day lunch trattoria with retail wine shelves since 1937. At Via del Gesu 87. Booking recommended.
Try: Roman trattoria lunch with house wine
Tip: Cash only. Open lunch only; no dinner; closed Sunday. The 12:30 seating is the busiest.
Panella in Rome's Esquilino quarter is the bakery-cafe with pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight at the standing counter, plus the cornetto-and-espresso.
Try: Pizza bianca counter, cornetto-and-espresso
Tip: Pizza bianca by the slice runs €3-5; the cornetto-and-coffee breakfast set is €3.50 at the bar.
Gabriele Bonci's Panificio in Rome's Prati district sells pizza bianca and pizza rossa by weight at €4-6 per slice, with the saltless Roman loaf at €4 per.
Try: Pizza bianca, pizza rossa by weight
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 07:30-20:00; closed Sunday. The 18:00 batch is the afternoon drop.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere sells suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight from €3 to €8 per portion, with the 19:00 fryer batch the freshest.
Try: Suppli, fritti misti
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing room only. Mixed fritti box is €8 for two to share.