Roman Pizza€€centocelleMon, Wed-Sun 18:45-22:00, Tue closed
Jacopo Mercuro's 180g Pizzeria Romana in Rome's Centocelle quarter has put the modern Roman pizza on the city's must-eat list, weighing each crust.
Signature: Pizza romana 180g, Suppli, Mortadella focaccia
Order: The signature 180g margherita and the mortadella-stracciatella focaccia, plus a suppli to share.
Tip: Closed Monday. Book a week ahead; the room holds 40 covers. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk.
Roman Trattoria€€trastevereMon-Sat 12:30-15:00, 18:00-22:30, Sun closed
Spirito Divino in Rome's Trastevere is the cellared-bistro with a 700-bottle wine list, the maialino al miele (honey-glazed pork) and the cellar tour.
Signature: Maialino al miele, Spaghettoni cacio e pepe, Carciofi
Order: The maialino al miele, spaghettoni cacio e pepe, and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. The €60 four-course set with paired wine is the value entry.
Roman Trattoria€€centro-storicoMon-Sat 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00, Sun closed
Matricianella in Rome's Centro Storico runs the canonical Roman trattoria carte: amatriciana the dish that named the house, saltimbocca alla romana.
Signature: Bucatini all'amatriciana, Saltimbocca, Concia di zucchine
Order: Bucatini all'amatriciana and saltimbocca alla romana, with a quartino of house Frascati.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book a week ahead for the courtyard terrace; the indoor room is calmer.
Italian€testaccioMon-Sat 09:00-20:30, Sun closed
Volpetti in Rome's Testaccio is the 1973-founded salumeria counter with 300 Italian cheeses, a salumi case stocked from every region and a takeaway pasta.
Signature: Cheese flight, Salumi platter, Pasta lunch
Order: The cheese flight tasting at the counter and a salumi board with prosciutto di Parma.
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 08:00-14:00 and 16:30-20:15. Closed Sunday. Cheese tour by request.
Modern Roman€€ostienseDaily 07:00-02:00
Doppio Zeroo in Rome's Ostiense district is the all-day pizza-and-aperitivo room with a long deli counter, the city's most generous aperitivo bar at 19:00.
Signature: Pizza al taglio, Aperitivo, Tasting plates
Order: The aperitivo buffet from 19:00 with a glass of Lazio white, plus slices of pizza al taglio.
Tip: Open daily 07:00-02:00. The 19:00 aperitivo is the value entry; book the rooftop in summer.
Roman Trattoria€€centro-storicoMon-Sat 12:30-23:00, Sun closed
Trattoria Dal Cavalier Gino in Rome's Centro Storico is the politicians' lunch room near the Parliament, with frescoed walls and the coniglio alla cacciatora.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Coniglio alla cacciatora, Saltimbocca
Order: The tonnarelli cacio e pepe, coniglio alla cacciatora, and a half-litre of house Frascati.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Book a week ahead; the back-room frescoed alcoves are the ask.