Post-industrial gasometer quarter south of the city, where Eataly, Doppiozeroo and the Marco Martini fine-dining room sit alongside the new trattoria wave.
Trattoria Pennestri in Rome's Ostiense, opened 2017 by Tommaso Pennestri, runs the Roman canon with farmer-named meat sourcing. Priced at €€.
OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, pajata when it's on, and any seasonal antipasto from the chalkboard.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is much easier to book than the 20:30 dinner seating.
Marco Martini's Aventino-edge room holds a Michelin star for the chef's modern reading of Roman pastas, with a tasting menu that runs both omnivore.
OrderThe carbonara reinterpreted with smoked egg, then any of the seasonal pigeon courses.
TipLunch tasting is €95 vs €150 dinner. The vegetarian carte runs the same number of courses.
UMA in Rome's Ostiense is the 2024 tasting-menu room of chefs Matteo Taccini and Luigi Senese, built on charcoal, fermentation and single-ingredient plates.
OrderThe nine-course Unico Zar at 85 euros; the seven-course vegetarian menu is 60 euros.
TipDinner only, closed Tuesday; the online booking takes tables from 20:00. The room is small and the menus are set.
Doppio Zeroo in Rome's Ostiense district is the all-day pizza-and-aperitivo room with a long deli counter, the city's most generous aperitivo bar at 19:00.
OrderThe aperitivo buffet from 19:00 with a glass of Lazio white, plus slices of pizza al taglio.
TipOpen daily 07:00-02:00. The 19:00 aperitivo is the value entry; book the rooftop in summer.
Casa Manfredi Teatro in Rome's Ostiense district by Piramide is Giorgia Proia's modern pasticceria-cafeteria with the city's defining almond croissant.
DrinkSpecialty espresso, cappuccino
TipOpen daily from 07:30. The 1.50 euro cornetto at the counter is the value entry; arrive before 11:00 for almond croissants.
Andreotti Pasticceria in Rome's Ostiense district has run since 1931 as the working-quarter cornetto-and-cappuccino bar, with a long counter of Roman classic.
Worth the queueCornetto, sfogliatella
TipOpen 07:00; the morning cornetto sfogliato is the breakfast steal at 1.50 euros.
Hopside Roma in Rome's Ostiense district runs about a dozen craft taps with a homebrewing laboratory, the burger-and-beer carte and an IPA-heavy programme.
TipOpen daily; the homebrew lab lets visitors brew and bottle a batch to take home. The IPA tap rotation is the lead-order.
Chiara Caruso's Cafe Merenda in Rome's Ostiense district by the Gazometro is the French-style bakery and brunch room with three-day croissants.
OrderThree-day croissant plus avocado toast on house pan bauletto with a poached egg.
TipOpen Tue-Sun from 08:00. The brunch set with coffee and viennoiserie is 22 euros; the corner terrace seats 12.
Doppio Zeroo in Rome's Ostiense district runs a weekend brunch buffet at €22 per head with rotating savoury and sweet plates, the city's most generous.
OrderThe all-you-can-eat weekend brunch buffet with rotating savoury and sweet plates.
TipBook the rooftop terrace from May to September. The 12:00 buffet refresh is the freshest of the morning.
Casa del Jazz occupies a confiscated villa and 2.5 hectare park behind Porta Ardeatina, run by the City of Rome since 2005 with a 150 seat auditorium, a documentation centre and a year-round programme of Italian and touring jazz acts.
TipThe park is open during the day and the summer terrace programme moves shows outside. Buses 714 or 30 from the centre drop you close; allow a ten minute walk through the grounds.
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