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Street foodCentro Storico
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella.
OrderThe classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
TipCash and card. Open 12:00-22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
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Roman PizzaTrastevere
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale.
OrderPizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
TipClosed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
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BakeryCentro Storico
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa.
OrderPizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:00-19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
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Street foodTrastevere
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin.
OrderSuppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
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Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long.
OrderFettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
TipNo bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
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Wine barMonti
Ai Tre Scalini in Rome's Monti district is the wine-bar trattoria with a 200-bottle list, the polpette al sugo lunch carte and the small front pavement seats.
OrderPolpette al sugo, tonnarelli cacio e pepe and a glass of Lazio Cesanese.
TipCash and card. Open 12:30-23:00; reservations only after 19:00 for tables of four or more.