The rooms worth a reservation in Rome, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Rome. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Roscioli in Rome's Centro Storico runs deli, restaurant and wine cellar as one room. Kitchen leans roman, salumeria. At Via dei Giubbonari 21.
Signature: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Burrata with anchovies
Order: The carbonara, the burrata with anchovies, and any cheese flight from the counter.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seating and the same kitchen runs both services.
Armando al Pantheon in Rome has cooked the four Roman pastas and the quinto quarto canon since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon. Located in Centro Storico.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Coda alla vaccinara, Abbacchio
Order: Cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, and the abbacchio when it's on the carte.
Tip: Bookings open exactly two months ahead on the website. Walk-up tables exist but only for lone diners and only at 12:30.
Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca alla romana, Tiramisu
Order: The tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.
Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Polpette al sugo, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.
Tip: The amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.
Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.
Signature: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Carciofo alla giudia
Order: Carbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.
Tip: No bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.
Trattoria Pennestri in Rome's Ostiense, opened 2017 by Tommaso Pennestri, runs the Roman canon with farmer-named meat sourcing. Priced at €€.
Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Pajata, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe
Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, pajata when it's on, and any seasonal antipasto from the chalkboard.
Tip: Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is much easier to book than the 20:30 dinner seating.
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
Signature: Trippa alla romana, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette al sugo
Order: The trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome's western Trastevere edge, run by Leonardo Vignoli, is the locals' Sunday trattoria. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette di bollito, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The fried cacio e pepe cup, polpette di bollito, and a quartino of house red.
Tip: Take tram 8 from Trastevere to the end of the line. Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch.
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Coda alla vaccinara, Animelle
Order: Rigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
Tip: The cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Gricia, Carbonara
Order: The four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Aliciotti con l'indivia
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
Tip: Kosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Concia di zucchine
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
Tip: Open Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.
Trecca in Rome reads the Lazio mountain cucina through a young-kitchen lens. Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e cicoria, Coda alla vaccinara, Polpette al sugo
Order: Tortelli of ricotta and cicoria, polpette al sugo, and a glass of Cesanese.
Tip: Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
Pianostrada in Rome's Regola district is the all-female kitchen behind the focaccia di Pianostrada (rosemary, mortadella, stracciatella) and the modern Roman.
Signature: Focaccia, Polpette di bollito, Tagliolini cacio e pepe
Order: The mortadella-and-stracciatella focaccia and the tagliolini cacio e pepe.
Tip: The garden seats book six weeks out for summer. Closed Monday all day.
Trattoria Monti in Rome reads the Marchigiano kitchen, the Camerano family's home region, through a Roman lens. Kitchen leans le marche / roman.
Signature: Tortino di carciofi, Coniglio in porchetta, Tonnarelli al sugo
Order: The tortino di carciofi, the coniglio in porchetta, and an Offida Pecorino white.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday all day. Book three weeks out; 30 seats only.
Marco Martini's Aventino-edge room holds a Michelin star for the chef's modern reading of Roman pastas, with a tasting menu that runs both omnivore.
Signature: Carbonara reinterpreted, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The carbonara reinterpreted with smoked egg, then any of the seasonal pigeon courses.
Tip: Lunch tasting is €95 vs €150 dinner. The vegetarian carte runs the same number of courses.
Il Sanlorenzo in Rome's Centro Storico is the Michelin-starred seafood-only room. Priced at €€€€. At Via dei Chiavari 4/5. Booking recommended.
Signature: Crudi di mare, Spaghettone alle vongole, Scampi
Order: The crudi platter and the spaghettone alle vongole with the daily catch.
Tip: The €85 lunch tasting is the more accessible entry; dinner runs €150 carte. Book a fortnight ahead.
La Tavernaccia da Bruno in Rome's western Trastevere edge has a wood-fire spit roasting porchetta and a Thursday-only lasagna that locals book three weeks.
Signature: Lasagna del giovedi, Porchetta, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe
Order: The Thursday lasagna if you can land a table, otherwise the porchetta and tonnarelli cacio e pepe.
Tip: Thursday lasagna sells out by 14:00 and books up two weeks ahead. Closed Wednesday.
Perilli in Rome's Testaccio has cooked the rigatoni con la pajata and the bucatini all'amatriciana since 1911. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Bucatini all'amatriciana, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: Rigatoni con la pajata (the dish of the house), bucatini all'amatriciana and a glass of Frascati.
Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Cash and card; cover charge is €2 per head.
Antico Arco on Rome's Gianicolo hill is the modern-Roman dining room with a panoramic terrace. Located in Trastevere. Kitchen leans modern italian.
Signature: Carbonara, Filetto al Barolo, Tortino al cioccolato
Order: The carbonara, filetto al Barolo, and the molten chocolate tortino with vanilla gelato.
Tip: Book a sunset table on the terrace three weeks out. Tram 8 from Trastevere drops at the foot of the hill.
Rimessa Roscioli in Rome is the wine-tasting dinner format from the Roscioli family. Located in Centro Storico. Kitchen leans italian, wine-led.
Signature: Wine tasting dinner, Salumi flight, Pasta carbonara
Order: The full tasting dinner; the wine flights are the experience, not optional add-ons.
Tip: Single seating at 20:00. Reserve a fortnight ahead; the salumi flight alone is worth the ticket.
Osteria Fernanda in Rome's southern Trastevere edge is Davide Del Duca's modern-Italian tasting room. Priced at €€€. Kitchen leans modern italian.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto, Pigeon
Order: The carte blanche tasting if you have three hours; otherwise the weekday lunch set.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday all day. The €80 lunch tasting is the steal vs €110 dinner.