Day-by-day eating plans for Rome. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Rome weekend: the four pastas, the Ghetto, the Testaccio canon ★ 4.6

First-time visitor, two days2 days

A weekend built around the four Roman pastas, the Ghetto's carciofo alla giudia, the Testaccio quinto quarto tradition and one neo-bistro dinner.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: Centro Storico market, Roman pasta lunch, late dinner

    Morning
    Mercato di Campo de' Fiori at 09:00 for fruit and the pizza bianca at Forno Campo de' Fiori at the corner. Espresso at Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe by 10:30.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Armando al Pantheon, 13:00. Cacio e pepe, abbacchio, half-litre of Frascati. Walk the Pantheon then through the Centro Storico.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Il Goccetto wine bar from 19:00. Dinner at Salumeria Roscioli, 21:00. Carbonara, burrata with anchovies, salumi flight.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: Testaccio market, Ghetto walk, late maritozzo

    Morning
    Porta Portese flea and food market at 08:00 (open Sundays only, closes 14:00). Coffee at Tram Depot, then a trapizzino (pizza-dough pocket with braised fillings) from Trapizzino.
    Afternoon
    Walk to Ghetto Ebraico. Lunch at Ba'Ghetto, 13:30. Carciofo alla giudia, filetti di baccala, aliciotti con l'indivia. Cherry-jam tart from Boccione for the walk home.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Drink Kong from 19:00 for the Tokyo-style highballs. Late maritozzo from Pasticceria Innocenti in Trastevere on the walk back, 20:30.

Rome three days: the four Roman pastas and offal canon ★ 4.5

Returning visitor, three days, pasta-led3 days

A three-day pasta-led plan: the four Roman pastas at canonical addresses, the Testaccio quinto quarto offal tradition and modern Roman reinterpretation.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: Centro Storico and the canon

    Morning
    Sant'Eustachio Il Caffe at 09:00 for the Gran Caffe Speciale. Pizza bianca at Antico Forno Roscioli.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Armando al Pantheon, 13:00. Cacio e pepe and saltimbocca alla romana.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Il Goccetto from 18:30 for a glass of Frascati. Dinner at Felice a Testaccio, 20:30 for the tonnarelli cacio e pepe table-side toss.

  2. Day 2: Day 2: Testaccio offal and quinto quarto

    Morning
    Mercato di Testaccio at 10:00. Sandwich at Mordi e Vai for the slow-braised beef shoulder.
    Afternoon
    Walk Monte dei Cocci. Late lunch at Flavio al Velavevodetto, 14:00. Rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo, coda alla vaccinara.
    Evening
    Dinner at Checchino dal 1887, 21:00 for the rigatoni con la pajata and the cellar tour.

  3. Day 3: Day 3: Modern Roman and the new wave

    Morning
    Pizza al taglio at Pizzarium near Vatican, 11:00. Tre suppli plus a pizza al taglio slice.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Santo Palato, 13:30. Trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, polpette.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Drink Kong, 19:00. Dinner at Trattoria Pennestri, 20:30 for the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata.

Rome vegan: three days of plant-led cooking ★ 4.3

Vegan, three days3 days

A three-day plan for a vegan traveller in Rome: Il Margutta, Romeow Cat Bistrot, Aromaticus, plus the natural-wine bars and the markets the city's plant kitchens shop from.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: Centro Storico vegan brunch and Margutta dinner

    Morning
    Breakfast at Barnum Cafe, 09:00 for avocado toast and a flat white from Faro-roasted beans.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Ginger Sapori e Salute, 13:00. The vegetarian-friendly carte. Walk the Spanish Steps.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Litro from 19:00 for the natural-wine list. Dinner at Il Margutta, 20:30 for the vegan tasting carte.

  2. Day 2: Day 2: Monti aperitivo and Aromaticus

    Morning
    Pizza bianca and an espresso at Panella L'Arte del Pane, 09:00.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Aromaticus in Monti, 13:00. Plant-led pastas, salad bowls and the vegetarian carte.
    Evening
    Aperitivo at Ai Tre Scalini in Monti from 19:00 for the wine-bar list. Dinner at Vegan Italy, 20:30 for the all-vegan Italian carte.

  3. Day 3: Day 3: Ostiense cat-cafe and gluten-free pizza

    Morning
    Brunch at Marigold in Ostiense, 10:00. Scandinavian sourdough plates, granola bowl, cardamom bun.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Ops! in Salario, 13:30 for the buffet of vegetarian and vegan plates by weight.
    Evening
    Dinner at Romeow Cat Bistrot in Ostiense, 19:30 for the five-course vegan tasting with the 14 resident cats.

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