Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella, fried to order.
Signature dishes: Suppli, Suppli cacio e pepe, Mortadella ball
Must order: The classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
Tip: Cash and card. Open 12:00 to 22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
Address: Via dei Banchi Vecchi 143, 00186 Roma, Rome
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa, and the city's best maritozzo to order.
Signature: Pizza bianca, Pizza rossa, Maritozzo
Order: Pizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 07:00 to 19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long marble counter.
Signature: Fettuccine, Cacio e pepe, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: Fettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
Tip: No bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale Trastevere by 20:00.
Signature: Roman pizza, Suppli, Fritti
Order: Pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
Tip: Closed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa, and the city's best maritozzo to order.
Signature: Pizza bianca, Pizza rossa, Maritozzo
Order: Pizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 07:00 to 19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin to Supplizio.
Signature: Suppli, Fiori di zucca, Crocchette di patate
Order: Suppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00 to 22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long marble counter.
Signature: Fettuccine, Cacio e pepe, Tagliatelle al ragu
Order: Fettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
Tip: No bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.
Ai Tre Scalini in Rome's Monti district is the wine-bar trattoria with a 200-bottle list, the polpette al sugo lunch carte and the small front pavement seats for aperitivo.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette al sugo, Caprese
Order: Polpette al sugo, tonnarelli cacio e pepe and a glass of Lazio Cesanese.
Tip: Cash and card. Open 12:30 to 23:00; reservations only after 19:00 for tables of four or more.
Trattoria Da Teo in Rome's Trastevere is the family-run pasta-and-pizza room with a piazza-side terrace, classic Roman primi and a quiet wine list of Lazio reds.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca, Tonnarelli
Order: Cacio e pepe, saltimbocca alla romana and a half-litre of house wine.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the piazza terrace. Closed Sunday all day.
