€€€€
Street foodTrastevere
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braises since 2008. Priced at €.
OrderTrapizzino with pollo alla cacciatora and another with melanzane alla parmigiana.
TipOpen 12:00-24:00 daily; the Piazza Trilussa location is the original of the brand.
€€€€
Street foodCentro Storico
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella.
OrderThe classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
TipCash and card. Open 12:00-22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
€€€€
Roman PizzaTrastevere
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale.
OrderPizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
TipClosed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
€€€€
BakeryCentro Storico
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa.
OrderPizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:00-19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
€€€€
Street foodTrastevere
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin.
OrderSuppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
€€€€
Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico
Osteria Da Fortunata in Rome's Centro Storico is the pasta-by-hand trattoria where you watch the pasta makers roll fettuccine in the window from a long.
OrderFettuccine al ragu, cacio e pepe rolled fresh in the window, and a quartino of house white.
TipNo bookings; queue from 19:00. Three locations across the centre; the Via del Pellegrino is the original.