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Roman PizzaCelio
Li Rioni in Rome's Celio district near the Colosseum runs the canonical wood-fire Roman pizza with paper-thin crusts and the city's best fiori di zucca.
OrderPizza alla romana, fiori di zucca and a suppli al telefono.
TipClosed Tuesday all day. The terrace tables on Via dei Santi Quattro book a week ahead.
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Street foodTrastevere
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braises since 2008. Priced at €.
OrderTrapizzino with pollo alla cacciatora and another with melanzane alla parmigiana.
TipOpen 12:00-24:00 daily; the Piazza Trilussa location is the original of the brand.
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Street foodCentro Storico
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella.
OrderThe classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
TipCash and card. Open 12:00-22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
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Roman PizzaTrastevere
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale.
OrderPizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
TipClosed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
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BakeryCentro Storico
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa.
OrderPizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
TipOpen Mon to Sat 07:00-19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
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Street foodTrastevere
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin.
OrderSuppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
TipCash only. Open 11:00-22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.