Pizzeria Da Remo in Rome's Testaccio is the classic Roman pizza room with paper-thin crusts, the city's busiest suppli counter and a queue that wraps the piazza nightly.
Signature dishes: Roman pizza, Suppli, Bruschetta
Must order: Roman pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, and the bruschetta with anchovies.
Tip: Cash only. No bookings; arrive 19:00 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Closed Sunday.
Address: Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, 00153 Roma, Rome
Li Rioni in Rome's Celio district near the Colosseum runs the canonical wood-fire Roman pizza with paper-thin crusts and the city's best fiori di zucca fritters since 1988.
Signature: Roman pizza, Suppli, Fiori di zucca
Order: Pizza alla romana, fiori di zucca and a suppli al telefono.
Tip: Closed Tuesday all day. The terrace tables on Via dei Santi Quattro book a week ahead.
Stefano Callegari's Trapizzino in Rome's Trastevere invented the namesake triangle of pizza bianca stuffed with Roman braises since 2008. Now a small Rome chain with five locations.
Signature: Trapizzino, Suppli, Pollo alla cacciatora
Order: Trapizzino with pollo alla cacciatora and another with melanzane alla parmigiana.
Tip: Open 12:00 to 24:00 daily; the Piazza Trilussa location is the original of the brand.
Arcangelo Dandini's Supplizio in Rome's Centro Storico is the suppli specialist counter, with 12 daily versions including cacio e pepe and mortadella, fried to order.
Signature: Suppli, Suppli cacio e pepe, Mortadella ball
Order: The classic suppli al telefono, the cacio e pepe version and the mortadella ball.
Tip: Cash and card. Open 12:00 to 22:00 Tue to Sun; closed Monday. Small standing counter only.
Pizzeria Ai Marmi in Rome's Trastevere is the Sunday-evening institution with marble-table tops, paper-thin Roman pizzas and queues that wrap onto Viale Trastevere by 20:00.
Signature: Roman pizza, Suppli, Fritti
Order: Pizza margherita, suppli al telefono, fritti misti including baccala.
Tip: Closed Wednesday. No bookings; queue starts 19:30. Cash and card; the room turns fast.
The Roscioli family's Antico Forno in Rome's Centro Storico is the 200-year-old neighbourhood bakery counter, with pizza bianca, pizza rossa, and the city's best maritozzo to order.
Signature: Pizza bianca, Pizza rossa, Maritozzo
Order: Pizza bianca (the classic), pizza rossa with anchovies, and a maritozzo con la panna.
Tip: Open Mon to Sat 07:00 to 19:30; closed Sunday. The maritozzo sells out by 11:00.
I Suppli in Rome's Trastevere is the no-frills friggitoria counter selling suppli, fiori di zucca and potato croquettes by weight, the standing-up cousin to Supplizio.
Signature: Suppli, Fiori di zucca, Crocchette di patate
Order: Suppli al telefono and fiori di zucca fritti, plus crocchette di patate on the side.
Tip: Cash only. Open 11:00 to 22:00; standing only. The 19:00 fryer batch is the freshest.
