€€€€AndalusianRibera
Bodegas Campos has poured in Córdoba since 1908, a warren of patios and barrel-signed rooms off Calle Lineros serving rabo de toro and salmorejo.
OrderRabo de toro, the dish the house has cooked for over a century.
TipAsk to walk through the barrel rooms before you sit; the signed butts are a century of visiting names.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
Casa Pepe de la Judería has fed Córdoba since 1928, a taberna downstairs and a roof terrace upstairs that looks straight at the Mezquita tower.
OrderMazamorra, the almond-and-bread ancestor of salmorejo.
TipThe roof terrace is the reason to come, so ask for it when you book rather than taking a ground-floor table.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
Casa Rubio sits against the Puerta de Almodóvar gate in Córdoba, a 1920 taberna renamed in 1932 and now three floors deep with a wall-view terrace.
OrderBerenjenas con miel de caña, then the tortilla de rabo de toro.
TipIt closes Tuesday and Wednesday, which catches out visitors who assume a Judería taberna opens daily.
€€€€AndalusianRibera
La Taberna del Río works a corner off Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera, rotating art on the walls and a summer roof terrace above the Guadalquivir.
OrderThe rabo de toro risotto, the kitchen's own crossing of two traditions.
TipThe kitchen runs straight through from 13:00 to midnight, rare in a city that closes between services.
€€€€AndalusianPoniente
Astoria Casa Matías cooks spoon stews, dehesa meat and seasonal vegetables in Córdoba, well away from the Mezquita crowds on Calle el Nogal.
OrderWhichever guiso de cuchara is on; the stews are the reason locals drive here.
TipOnly Wednesday to Saturday runs past 18:30, so plan a dinner here midweek at your peril.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
El Churrasco has grilled Iberian pork over oak charcoal on Calle Romero since 1970, its churrasco cordobés arriving with red and green Arab sauces.
OrderThe churrasco cordobés, grilled pork loin with the house red and green sauces.
TipThe house occupies a fourteenth-century Judería building; ask for a table around the patio rather than the front rooms.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
El Caballo Rojo cooks the Mozarabic register of Córdoba a few steps from the Mezquita, a tapas bar below and dining rooms above on Cardenal Herrero.
OrderWhatever leans Mozarabic on the day's carta; this kitchen built its name on that revival.
TipIt is steps from the Patio de los Naranjos, so book ahead for lunch; the bar takes walk-ins that the dining rooms cannot.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
Casa Palacio Bandolero fills a sixteenth-century palace facing the Mezquita, cooking white gazpacho, salmorejo and artichokes in Moriles wine.
OrderAlcachofas al Moriles, artichokes braised in the local wine.
TipThe two patios are the reason to come; on a summer night ask for the terrace beside the Mezquita entrance rather than an interior salon.
€€€€AndalusianCorredera
La Cazuela de la Espartería cooks taberna standards beside Plaza de la Corredera, salmorejo, flamenquín, pisto and rabo de toro across its salons.
OrderThe pisto, the vegetable stew that Córdoba's tabernas use to measure each other.
TipSunday is lunch only and Saturday dinner starts at 20:30, an hour later than on weekdays, so check the clock before you set out.
€€€€AndalusianSan Basilio
Mesón San Basilio serves Córdoban home cooking around a patio in the Alcázar Viejo quarter, fried aubergines, salmorejo and rabo de toro leading.
OrderBerenjenas fritas first, then the rabo de toro.
TipIt sits in the patios district of San Basilio, so pair lunch here with the whitewashed courtyard streets rather than the Mezquita crowds.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
El Rincón de Carmen slow-cooks old-style rabo de toro and fries homemade ham croquettes around a Córdoban patio on Calle Romero in the Judería.
OrderRabo de toro a la antigua, the kitchen's stated signature.
TipThe patio seats fewer than the two dining rooms combined, so name it when you book; the house sources from the Sierra de Córdoba.
€€€€AndalusianCorredera
Taberna Salinas has run off Córdoba's Corredera since 1924, an azulejo bar backed by wine casks and a patio full of plants and old paintings.
OrderThe salmorejo, the version most cordobeses measure the others against.
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Casa El Pisto has stood on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where the pisto with a fried egg is the house test.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, the plate that gave the taberna its nickname.
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
€€€€AndalusianRibera
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
OrderA copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
TipThe staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
La Taberna de Almodóvar pours fino en rama over a wooden bar in central Córdoba, with salmorejo and flamenquín run as the everyday counter order.
OrderSalmorejo first, then the flamenquín, in that order and no other.
TipSunday is lunch only, and the kitchen shuts firmly at 16:30 before the evening service.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
OrderMazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
TipThe kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
€€€€AndalusianSan Basilio
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipSan Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna Góngora is the family taberna on Conde de Torres Cabrera in Córdoba, adapting most of its carta for coeliacs on a separate chickpea-flour fryer.
OrderRabo de toro, then boquerones, both at taberna prices.
TipIt closes Tuesday and Sunday, an awkward pair that catches out anyone planning a long weekend.
€€€€AndalusianCorredera
Taberna Salinas has run off Córdoba's Corredera since 1924, an azulejo bar backed by wine casks and a patio full of plants and old paintings.
OrderThe salmorejo, the version most cordobeses measure the others against.
TipIt shuts on Sunday and does no dinner on Saturday, which trips up weekend visitors constantly.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Casa El Pisto has stood on Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where the pisto with a fried egg is the house test.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, the plate that gave the taberna its nickname.
TipThe operator lists lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than a dinner plan.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
OrderMazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
TipThe kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
€€€€AndalusianSan Basilio
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipSan Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
€€€€AndalusianRibera
The Plateros silversmiths' guild still runs this Córdoba taberna on Calle San Francisco, thick white walls set around a patio under a skylight.
OrderA copa of the house Oro Viejo with whatever tapa the bar suggests.
TipThe staff swap every round plate on the table for a square one when a coeliac sits down.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Fuenseca sits on Calle Juan Rufo in Córdoba, a wooden-bar house on the city's historic-taberna register pouring fino en rama by the copa.
OrderFino en rama, poured cold, with whatever is on the tapa board.
TipThe kitchen stops at 23:00 and the place shuts Mondays, so it is an early-evening rather than late stop.
€€€€AndalusianSanta Marina
Taberna Regina keeps a corner of Plaza de Regina in Córdoba, one of the houses on the city's historic-taberna register, pouring Montilla-Moriles.
OrderAn amontillado with a plate of whatever the bar is frying.
TipThe midday service runs Wednesday to Sunday and the only dinner sittings are Friday and Saturday, so plan an evening visit for the weekend.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Barra y Mesa is a small wooden-counter taberna in central Córdoba pouring Montilla-Moriles beside salmorejo, flamenquín and slow-cooked rabo de toro.
OrderRabo de toro, cooked down until the meat leaves the bone on its own.
TipIt closes on Sunday and serves dinner Wednesday to Saturday only, and the room is small enough that a booking matters.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
La Taberna de Almodóvar pours fino en rama over a wooden bar in central Córdoba, with salmorejo and flamenquín run as the everyday counter order.
OrderSalmorejo first, then the flamenquín, in that order and no other.
TipSunday is lunch only, and the kitchen shuts firmly at 16:30 before the evening service.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
La Taberna de Trasmallo has worked Avenida Doctor Fleming in Córdoba since 2009, a wooden-bar room pouring fino en rama beside the city's standards.
OrderFlamenquín with a copa of fino en rama alongside.
TipIt runs straight through from midday, which makes it useful in the dead hours when tabernas shut.
€€€€AndalusianSureste
Noor is Paco Morales's three-star kitchen in Córdoba, rebuilding the food of the caliphate from Andalusi manuscripts in a plain eastern shopfront.
OrderWhichever full menu is running; the room does no carte.
TipNoor works in seasons and closes between them, so check the calendar before you book flights around a table here.
€€€€AndalusianPoniente
Choco is Kisko García's Michelin-starred dining room in Córdoba, a thirty-cover kitchen on a residential Poniente street that shuts for all of August.
OrderThe full author menu; the kitchen is built around it.
TipLunch service runs only from 13:30 to 15:00, so a late arrival loses the table entirely.
€€€€AndalusianEl Brillante
ReComiendo in Córdoba is Periko Ortega's tasting-menu room out in Mirabueno, awarded its first Michelin star at the Málaga gala in November 2025.
OrderThe MeMoria tasting menu at €108, adding the Armonías Memento pairing for the full experience.
TipReservation is compulsory and the kitchen runs long, so keep the whole evening free and book nothing afterwards.
€€€€AndalusianSan Lorenzo
La Cuchara de San Lorenzo is the spoon-food room in Córdoba's San Lorenzo, thirty covers of artichokes with jamón, grilled tuna and braised rabo de toro.
OrderThe artichokes with jamón, then whatever stew is running that week.
TipThirty seats and two brothers running the room, so book rather than walking up on a Friday night.
€€€€AndalusianRibera
Regadera sits on Córdoba's Ronda de Isasa with the Guadalquivir outside, Adrián Caballero cooking cordobés classics from a kitchen open to the room.
OrderThe salmorejo, then the flamenquín, both rebuilt rather than reinvented.
TipThe riverside tables go first at sunset, so ask for one when you book rather than on arrival.
€€€€AndalusianSan Basilio
Puerta Sevilla fills a 200-year-old San Basilio house in Córdoba, five private rooms and a planted patio serving arroz del señorito and hake costrón.
OrderArroz del señorito, then the Texturas de Pedro Ximénez for dessert.
TipAsk for the patio rather than a salón; the upstairs rooms are handsome but the courtyard is the point.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Ermita de la Candelaria cooks inside a converted hermitage in Córdoba, almond-sauce meatballs and honeyed aubergine under a Sol from the Repsol guide.
OrderThe albóndigas in almond sauce, a direct descendant of the Andalusi kitchen.
TipThe building is a former chapel, so tables are few; book a midweek lunch if you want the easiest table.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
La Taberna de Trasmallo runs to 01:00 on Friday and Saturday in Córdoba, still pouring fino en rama and serving flamenquín when the tabernas have shut.
OrderFlamenquín with a copa of fino en rama, late.
TipClosed Monday and Tuesday, and on Sunday it finishes at 18:00 rather than running into the night.
€€€€AndalusianPoniente
Astoria Casa Matías keeps its kitchen going to 01:00 from Wednesday to Saturday in Córdoba, spoon stews and dehesa meat long after the centre has closed.
OrderWhichever guiso de cuchara is left on the board at midnight.
TipMonday, Tuesday and Sunday it stops at 18:30, so the late window is Wednesday to Saturday.
€€€€AndalusianRibera
La Taberna del Río serves until midnight every day by Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera, one of few kitchens here that never breaks for the afternoon.
OrderThe rabo de toro risotto, ordered late with a glass of red.
TipIt runs straight through from 13:00, so it also covers the dead hours other kitchens miss.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Montillana has stood beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and makes almost no concessions to the tourist trade a few streets south.
TipOrder the mazamorra rather than the salmorejo; it is the older dish and the harder one to find.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna Coto has worked Córdoba since 1972 and moved recently to Plaza de San Miguel, in the shadow of a more famous neighbour and publishing no hours.
TipLomo en manteca colorá is the plate to order; it has vanished from most tourist-facing menus in the city.
€€€€AndalusianSanta Marina
Taberna Regina has held its corner of a quiet Córdoba plaza since 1904, off every standard walking route and open mainly for the midday service.
TipThe taberna shuts Monday and Tuesday and opens for dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so time a midweek visit for the midday service.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna Góngora is the family taberna on Conde de Torres Cabrera in Córdoba, adapting most of its carta for coeliacs on a separate chickpea-flour fryer.
OrderRabo de toro, then boquerones, both at taberna prices.
TipIt closes Tuesday and Sunday, an awkward pair that catches out anyone planning a long weekend.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Casa El Pisto has fed Plaza de San Miguel in Córdoba since 1880, a bullfighting taberna where a plate of pisto with a fried egg costs almost nothing.
OrderPisto casero con huevo, then the ensaladilla rusa.
TipThe operator publishes lunchtime hours only, so treat this as a midday stop rather than dinner.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna Coto has traded in Córdoba since 1972 and now sits on Plaza de San Miguel, serving lomo en manteca colorá that tourist kitchens have dropped.
OrderLomo en manteca colorá, then berenjenas con miel de caña.
TipIt publishes no hours anywhere and closes Tuesdays, so phone before you build a plan around it.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
Taberna Rafaé has worked Calle Deanes in Córdoba's Judería since 1977, a bodega-taberna running more than eighty classic plates at taberna prices.
OrderWhatever the bodega board recommends; the carta runs past eighty plates.
TipIt advertises itself as open every day but publishes no clock times, so call ahead in low season.
€€€€AndalusianSanta Marina
Taberna Regina opened on its small Córdoba plaza in 1904 and still serves albóndigas de la abuela and a flamenquín stuffed with rabo de toro.
OrderAlbóndigas de la abuela, then the rabo de toro flamenquín.
TipIt shuts Monday and Tuesday and serves dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so a midweek evening walk-in finds the door closed.
€€€€AndalusianSan Lorenzo
Taberna Casa Luis faces the rose window of San Lorenzo in Córdoba, a neighbourhood room built on pescaíto frito, callos and other home-kitchen plates.
OrderPescaíto frito, the plate the barrio has always come here to eat.
TipNo hours are published anywhere, so treat an evening visit as a gamble unless you phone first.
€€€€AndalusianCentro
Taberna La Montillana has run beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and is one of the very few kitchens in the city still serving mazamorra.
OrderMazamorra, the white almond soup that came before salmorejo.
TipThe operator writes its closing time as until close rather than a clock hour, so late arrivals are a gamble.
€€€€AndalusianJuderia
Taberna El Abanico is the small flower-hung tapas room on Velázquez Bosco in Córdoba, a few metres north of the Mezquita and open seven days a week.
OrderAsk the counter what came in that morning; the carta is short and changes.
TipThe operator runs three sites; Velázquez Bosco 7 is the original Mezquita branch, not the Ribera one.
€€€€AndalusianSan Basilio
Taberna La Viuda runs more than thirty tapas and raciones in San Basilio in Córdoba, including a flamenquín stuffed with cheese rather than ham.
OrderThe flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
TipIt opens all seven days with a full split service, rare in a barrio where most rooms take a day off.
€€€€AndalusianCorredera
Taberna Salinas serves salmorejo, flamenquín and fried aubergine off Córdoba's Corredera, in a barrel-lined room the Salinas family took on in 1924.
OrderSalmorejo, then flamenquines de jamón serrano.
TipAn earlier tavern stood here from 1879; the Salinas family business itself dates from 1924.