Andalusian€€centroMon-Thu 13:00-18:00, 20:00 until close; Fri-Sun 13:00 until close
Taberna La Montillana has traded on Calle San Álvaro in Córdoba since 1948, bull heads on the walls and Montilla-Moriles wines behind the bar.
Signature: Croquetas de jamón, Mazamorra, Flamenquín cordobés
Order: Mazamorra, the almond purée that predates salmorejo in this city.
Tip: The kitchen rotates a recommendation board, so read it before ordering off the printed carta.
Andalusian€€san-basilioDaily 13:00-16:30, 20:00-23:30
Taberna La Viuda works the San Basilio side of Córdoba with more than thirty plates, cheese-stuffed flamenquín among them, and citrus-cured tuna.
Signature: Flamenquín de queso La Viuda, Atún marinado en cítricos
Order: The flamenquín de queso, the house rewrite of the city's fried classic.
Tip: San Basilio wins most of the patio prizes in May, so book here well ahead during the festival.
Andalusian€centroMon 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:30; Wed-Sat 13:00-16:00, 20:00-23:30; Tue and Sun closed
Taberna Góngora is the family taberna on Conde de Torres Cabrera in Córdoba, adapting most of its carta for coeliacs on a separate chickpea-flour fryer.
Try: Rabo de toro and boquerones
Order: Rabo de toro, then boquerones, both at taberna prices.
Tip: It closes Tuesday and Sunday, an awkward pair that catches out anyone planning a long weekend.
Mediterranean€corredera
El Astronauta cooks mezze and a full plant-based section in central Córdoba, a vegan moussaka and vegan burger alongside the standard carta.
Try: Vegan moussaka and mezze
Order: The vegan moussaka, or the mezze spread if there are several of you.
Tip: The operator publishes no hours, though the Córdoba directories agree it shuts on Sunday, so phone ahead before building a plan.
Cocktail bar€€€riberaWed-Thu 20:00-03:00; Fri 17:00-04:00; Sat 16:00-04:00; Sun-Tue closedUntil 04:00 on Friday and Saturday
Sojo Ribera runs latest of anywhere in Córdoba, a mixology room and river terrace on the Paseo de la Ribera that holds on until 04:00 at weekends.
Try: Bar snacks
Order: A house cocktail on the terrace before the room turns into a club.
Tip: Closed Sunday to Tuesday, and the summer schedule starts later than the winter one.
Andalusian€€€riberaDaily 13:30-16:00, 20:00-23:00
Bodegas Campos has poured in Córdoba since 1908, a warren of patios and barrel-signed rooms off Calle Lineros serving rabo de toro and salmorejo.
Signature: Rabo de toro, Salmorejo, Flamenquín
Order: Rabo de toro, the dish the house has cooked for over a century.
Tip: Ask to walk through the barrel rooms before you sit; the signed butts are a century of visiting names.